Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild

[h20ryder]

It's been a while. Honestly got burned out on sanding every day but finally back at it.
Had to make a tent over the hull to control some of the sanding dust and keep it dry approaching our rain/winter season.
Drilled, glued, and screwed aluminum angle brackets to each stringer and rib to support floor seams.
Patterned and cut out the entire floor from 3/4 inch ACX and then covered bottom with 6oz glass. Planning on doubled 1708 for top side.

[Capt. Bob]

Welcome back.
Lookin' good.

[RickK]

Ditto what CB said.

[h20ryder]

I have never used an epoxy pigment before but experimented with the West System 503 Gray added to my US Composites resin. It doesn't take much to color it and looks just like thin paint but really seems to thicken the final cured resin and make it much easier to see flaws and spots that need to be sanded.
Anyone have any suggestions or techniques for wrapping edges of 1/2 plywood that has been rounded with a 1/4 inch router bit?
I'm having trouble with such a tight bend and the glass doesn't want to stay flat.
Is crowsfoot weave better for this?

[dirtwheelsfl]

It looks like youre trying to tab that flange and wrap the underside of the flange at the same time? (same piece of cloth). Nearly impossible without voids. I would use 2 seperate pieces of cloth, one to cover the top radius and one to then wrap the flange. Lighter cloth will make the bend easier too, something like a 4 oz. Looks like youre presoaking the wood in epoxy too, let that cure and sand it smooth (just enough to get the shiny off) thatll help it lay better when you do glass it.

Top notch work by the way!

heres what i meant:

[RickK]

I agree with dirt and was kinda what I was thinking.  2 pieces for sure and I was taught to not cut the glass in some circumstances but tear it apart so there is a lot of thread fibers exposed and they will mesh at the joint with the next piece when you do wet-on-wet and it'll give it more strength.  Maybe the type of material you'll be using won't allow you to tear it though.

Something to think about.

[h20ryder]

Good suggestion using 2 pieces, that made it way easier. Seems the glass doesn't like to have multiple curves in it even if they are all in the same direction. I ended up buying a yard of 20oz crowfoot weave from my local supplier to try and the stuff is great. 20oz crowfoot contours better to curves than 6 oz standard E-glass. Would have never guessed that.
I have 2 layers of 6oz on top and another 2 layers of 6oz on bottom with the 20oz wrapped over all of it. So just part of the curved lip has only 20oz glass but that should be strong enough to not break and leak?

[dirtwheelsfl]

I dont see any voids  

whats that 20 oz look like dry?

[h20ryder]

Here's a pic of the crowsfoot without resin. It looks even better over unpainted plywood but my previous pic was over the top of pigmented gray glass.

[h20ryder]

So I'm running low on resin... again (already over 35 gallons into this project). My plywood floor is in and ready for glassing but I only have enough resin to do the tabbing and possibly 6oz over the entire wood floor while waiting for my shipment.
I don't really want to leave the raw wood sitting for up to 2 weeks while the resin ships.
Will it hurt anything or cause any weakness if I glass the entire floor with 6oz glass to seal it from moisture 2 weeks prior to glassing it all over again with 2 layers of 1708?

[Callyb]

So I'm running low on resin... again (already over 35 gallons into this project). My plywood floor is in and ready for glassing but I only have enough resin to do the tabbing and possibly 6oz over the entire wood floor while waiting for my shipment.
I don't really want to leave the raw wood sitting for up to 2 weeks while the resin ships.
Will it hurt anything or cause any weakness if I glass the entire floor with 6oz glass to seal it from moisture 2 weeks prior to glassing it all over again with 2 layers of 1708?

May I ask why you are putting 2 layers of 1708 on a ply deck? One layer of 6oz on the bottom and top would be plenty, and if you wanted the extra impact resistance one layer of 12oz would do the trick. Two layers of 1708 sounds more like a lamination schedule for a foam or honeycomb core deck. If you were using polyester resign that would make a difference too, but epoxy's properties are much different and it is a much stronger material.

I'm not trying to be critical, and I hope it doesn't offend you. I'm just save you the extra cost and weight of that much extra material.

BTW, the project is looking awesome! I really like the layout of the floor.

[gran398]

h20,

You are getting a sweet job, looking forward to seeing her come along <!-- s:thumright: --><!-- s:thumright: -->

Cally makes a great point about the deck. The builder here has a chopper gun, best I recall he uses one good layer of the bottom, two on the top, rolls both sides out, that's pretty much it. Nice and sealed, strong, yet keeps the weight down.

They build all AC fir, here are some pics:

http://classicaquasport.com/smf/index.php?topic=9949.25

 A link to their website:

<!-- m -->http://www.seamarkboats.com/<!-- m -->

Keep up the fine work!

[RickK]

On my 170 I used 5/8" plywood and just resin coated the bottom.  When I pulled the floor out this past Sunday 98% looked just like I put it in 14 years ago - still looked new.  The other 2% was the reason I replaced it - somehow water got into it and destroyed an area adjacent to my casting platform.  Maybe fiberglass, resin and gelocat aren't waterproof?
Anyway, putting glass on the bottom I guess couldn't hurt but resin coating seemed to be just fine too.

[dirtwheelsfl]

Shouldnt be a problem. Another option might be to coat the whole deck in just epoxy and skip the 6 oz. Then when you get your shipment, scuff n clean then lay your 1708. You could put a 6 oz over that as well. Give you a smoother finish and more abrasion protection. 2 layers of 1708 wont hurt the boat or weigh that much, but itll definitely hurt the wallet...

[h20ryder]

Thanks for all the suggestions. It's great to hear that I don't need to run a double layer of 1708.
I refer back to LilRichard's build a lot because it has great pics of the whole build process but he used 3615 plus another 1808 on his plywood deck so I thought it had to be pretty thick.
I think I will run resin with no glass for now just to seal it then scuff it up prior to glassing it once I have my resin order.
With the floor glued and screwed do I also need to use tabbing over the floor seams where each sheet of plywood meets the next?
Or can I just overlap the 1708 over the seams when I lay the entire floor glass?