Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild

[dirtwheelsfl]

The thinner the better. You really want it to wick into that end grain.

[h20ryder]

Finally took some pics of my progress. Ribs are all tabbed and glassed. Also have 2 of the 4 bulkheads bedded with PL Premium adhesive against the hull to prevent hard spots and thickened epoxy attaching to stringers for strength. Planning on bedding in the other 2 bulkheads by Friday and finishing tabbing and glassing by the weekend.
Also ripped a 3 inch PVC conduit pipe for the center stringer and added a 3 layer sandwiched 1/2 inch ACX bow stringer like the factory had used.

[h20ryder]

I finished glassing in the bulkheads this weekend now getting ready to put in the new gas tank (52 gal polyethylene).
I built a coffin and am going to foam in the tank hopefully this week. The tank will rest on neoprene strips which I learned from reading other forums.
My questions are:
1) Do I need to use some type of straps to hold the tank in? or is the foam good enough?
2) My local boat builder has 2 part pour foam that is 4lb density. They use generic resins and foams which so far I have stayed away from (Rhino brand). Is there any specific type of foam that works better than the rest? or some that should be avoided?

[gran398]

Tank install:

You're on the right track. Less is more in terms of holding moisture/air circulation.

Use one 2.5 gallon freezer bag per each corner as a chock, then lightly inject the four bags with foam.

Tie in from above with hollow fiberglass 2 X 2 girders. See the rebuild thread "Miss Delmarva" for pics describing above.

Other ways too. Saw another tank install here recently. A bit different, but great work. No dissimilar metals, no galvanic crosstalk, no  rubber leeching, no arsenic from treated lumber, etc.

Another means to the same end....no crevice corrosion/leeching corrosion issues down the road.

The above is applicable to aluminum tanks. Yours is poly...would still go with the glass girders as the tie-down. Poly tank...must allow for quick expansion. No heavy foam...the corner foam with the girder system described above will be ideal for you.

PS...Your stringer work/glass work is deluxe.

[h20ryder]

Thanks gran
The Miss DelMarva post is great, that's what I was looking for. That is a killer boat. I see the 2x2 girders but don't actually have enough clearance under my deck for those. It's a real tight fit with my tank. Will probably have to go with angle iron screwed to the stringers then resting on top of the tank. Unless I build really thick 1x1 girders to offset strength in a smaller size.

I went and looked at the foam from my local supplier and they don't know enough about, said it's 4lb density but the label says clearly 2lb. They even had a test batch cured and it felt really soft so I placed an order with US Composites for the 4lb foam kit instead but have to wait about a week for shipping. So no gas tank install this week.

Still stuck on how to setup cleats to attach the new floor to. Not sure what is easiest, strongest, not too expensive, and doesn't require running glass on each stringer/rib/bulkhead cap again. I have spent hours searching this without a method I really like.

[Blue Agave]

I'd stay away from the foam all together.  If you strap the tank down and its secure, there is no need for foam.  And as Gran mentioned that poly tank is going to expand once you put fuel in it and if its foamed in it may crack.

The issue I see with your tank is going to be getting the fill hose on the tank.

[gran398]

That's true Fern.

I'm going by Seamark tomorrow morning, they install poly tanks in all of their rides....I'll inquire as to their method.

[h20ryder]

I have seen a lot of rebuilds where they foam in polyethylene tanks as well as read all the discussions about pros and cons of poly vs aluminum. Thought I had it figured out but I'm happy you both commented on this.

Originally bought my Moeller poly tank because it was the largest tank with the best fit between the factory stringers but that all changed when I set the tank in there the 1st time and noticed how trashed the stock stringers were which sparked the whole interior tear out.

You are right, read it right on the Moeller website, "do not foam in tank" due to 2-3% expansion.
Also found the Moeller installation instructions for securing my tank using a Tank Cradle Hold Down Kit:
http://www.moellermarine.com/sites/moel ... ctions.pdf

Thought I did my research but missed something. Maybe I will start searching for an aluminum tank now but spent a lot of $ on my poly tank. Thanks for checking with Seamark.

I will have an access panel over the plumbing connections area of the tank inside my center console so I can easily get to the hoses and sending unit. Also planning on cutting a hole in the starboard stringer to route the fill hose to the factory deck fill similar to the original layout but without that big notch in the stringer.

[Blue Agave]

H2O, if you don't have a problem with cutting a hole in the std. stringer and the forward bulkhead to run the fill hose I don't see a reason you can't keep the poly tank. If you do decide you want an aluminum tank, you can have one custom made to fit your fuel cell and have the fill, vent, pickup, and sender placed where you want them.  Again, even with an aluminum tank I'd stay way from foaming in the tank.

[gran398]

H2O,

Didn't make it this morn, will be tomorrow. Will advise, tx.

[h20ryder]

Rigging tubes are in. 3 inch schedule 40 PVC.
The plugs that fell out of the stringers with the hole saw are 2 inches thick and really give me confidence that they are built super strong.
Next going to cut and run the bow wiring tube with 1.5 inch PVC as well as the in and out tubes for my baitwell.
Anyone have suggestions on the diameter of pipe I should use for the baitwell? 2 inch PVC?
Also, the old baitwell outflow pipe exited the transom under the surface of the water. Is that standard or should it be above the hull waterline like a bilge bulkhead?

[Necessary Evil]

Very nice work! I would think that if you have below the waterline drains, and the boat sits for any length of time in the water you could get some yucky marine growth in them.

[dirtwheelsfl]

Looking good! Limber holes in those bulkheads are a must in my opinion though. Water needs to be able to go somewhere

[h20ryder]

Necessary Evil- my boat will always be trailered and not in the water for more than a weekend at a time so I probably don't have to worry about stuff growing on the outflow pipe that quick right?
I'm thinking I will use flex line similar to the hose on my fuel fill to plumb the baitwell. Makes more sense than rigid pipe I think and I can route it to not take up as much space and without 45 degree kinks to allow better flow.

[h20ryder]

Those 2 most recent pics kind of hide the limber holes in the ribs but each one has a 2 inch hole where the rib meets the stringer. Good catch tho. I still need to drill the limber holes in the last compartment that drain from the rib cells down into the bilge at the transom.

Ripped a 3 inch PVC pipe today into half circles to act as a tunnel in a few of the rib compartments so I can pour 2lb floatation foam in those cells and still have water drain under them to the back bilge pickups. Will probably just run some 6oz glass over the pvc to hold it in place since its not structural.