Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild

[h20ryder]

I bed my stringers in last night using PL Premium adhesive. Really surprised it bubbled as much as it did when curing. Decided to give it enough time to cure and then shave off the bubbles before tabbing stringers in today.

Tripple sandwiched 1/2 inch ACX plywood stringers look beefy against the hull. But they are also heavy so I know why everyone else has been using foam stringers instead.

Used 1 layer of 8 inch 1708 to tab stringers.
Is 1 layer of tabbing enough with 2 additional layers of 1708 over the entire stringers?

[gran398]

Looking good, nice work today.

Glad you've joined, have enjoyed the conciseness of your posts.

Recommended you over-tab the stringers beneath the console given the stress above, but that's about it, great work.

Regarding weight...when you begin glassing....the resin is the culprit.

Take a close look at excess weight... with closed transom, less bracket, dry weight less power...2200 pounds is a good number.

[gran398]

The ACX may be dense...but properly sealed will go thirty years or more.

The Carolina commercial builders proudly use glassed AC fir..stringers, transoms, and decks.

[dirtwheelsfl]

Yea one tab is enough, granted the 2 layers covering the whole stringer have tabs incorporated into em too. About ten inches out into the hull shouldbe good.

[h20ryder]

Good suggestion. I double tabbed the section below the console and t-top area to give it some extra strength last night.

Bought 20 yards of 50 inch wide 1708 today on my lunch break. Sounds like a lot but my calculations show it will be just enough to do both 16 foot stringers in 2 layers with 10 inches on the hull on either side of each stringer.

When you guys prep the previous layer of 1708 how much to you sand off? Just the tops of the stitch and the tops of the 1st layer of biax? Or do you grind it down all the way so the grooves are all gone and completely flat?

[h20ryder]

Here's another idea I am working on.
I knew I should have closed in my transom a bit even though I am not going to use a jack plate or port-a-brace but ended up keeping the stock transom shape anyway. Shown in BROWN.
My transom is sandwiched 3/4 inch and I want to build a closed section out of 1/2 inch permanently onto the top section of the thicker transom. Saves weight (and is an after thought). Shown in RED.
I will incorporate a detachable splashwell. Shown in BLUE

Attached with thickened epoxy and wrapped in 2 layers of 1708 should be strong enough? Or did I blow it on not planning that in advance?

[gran398]

That software of yours is very deluxe.

The brown is continuous (no cutout) behind the blue at 25 inches correct?

The blue splashwell....where would it drain, and can the motor fully tilt without hitting it? (Thinking safety in an emergency)

[h20ryder]

SolidWorks is awesome. I am still learning it but it has helped me build a lot of projects and catch fitment and clearance issues before I wasted material.

Yes the brown is continuous at 25 inches behind the blue and doesn't have a cut out.
The splashwell would be built after installing the Evinrude to make sure it doesn't hit and so it is removable.

Hmm, didn't think about the drain. I guess I could make the well a lot shallower so it just self bails?
Or does the engine tilt below the 25 inch line?
I would be OK with a small amount of water trapped in there temporarily while out on the water.

[dirtwheelsfl]

Certainly would have been less work to put it in beforehand. But 2 layers should be fine overlapping to whats already there a good bit. When youre laminating onto cured stuff you just need to "liability sand". Which is pretty much just getting burrs and sharp spots off. Youre never going to get down into the weave. Just try and get as much of the shiny off as you can. Not that big of a deal with epoxy.

[gran398]

You should be plenty good without the splashwell. The red extension is a built-in wave gate. Both sides up tight to the engine, when the engine is in the full hard-over position port and starboard. Let the engine clear the extension by 1/4 inch either side....even in a heavy following sea, you'll be surprised how effective it is

[h20ryder]

Thanks gran398
I have actually searched a few times previously for info on wave gates but never found anything really appealing. Just some king starboard screwed onto some transoms and I didn't like that look.
Made the mistake of not measuring the position of full turn to turn on my motor before taking it off. Guess I will have to put it back on to measure especially if it should be 1/4 inch from either side of engine.

Getting so tired of sanding...

[h20ryder]

Finally finished laying 2 layers of 1708 over both stringers. Now I'm starting to put the ribs in and wanted to know how you guys dealt with the old sole?
I was planning on screwing and gluing the new sole on top of the old sole ledge I left when I cut out the old floor.
Should I cut out all the original sole core wood and replace it? Or should I just wrap it in glass so it is sealed?
Right now I have a 2 inch ledge from the old sole all the way around the hull. Suggestions?

[gran398]

How is the condition of the existing ply?

[dirtwheelsfl]

If its dry, just seal that end grain with a few coats of epoxy. Make sure the screws dont poke thru the underside!

[h20ryder]

Plywood is all dry and has been cut open for months airing out. Also have a boat cover over it at night to make sure any rain or dew doesn't get in the hull since I haven't drilled a new bilge hole yet after replacing transom.
There doesn't appear to be any rot on that wood but I don't know how it looks on the side I can't see where it's tabbed to liner.
Should I use regular laminating resin or thicken it up with West System 406 to seal the edge?
Thanks