Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild

[slvrlng]

Are you planning on re- gelcoating? Or, are you painting?

[jdupree]

Here comes my advice and experience with Durabak and Kiwigrip since I have used both.  I went with Durabak first and then Kiwigrip.  Here is what I have found with both.

Durabak basically has no shelf life where Kiwigrip does.  Once you break the seal on Durabak the "clock is ticking".  Durabak dries very quickly when putting down.  Durabak is not very thick so you will need 2 coats at a minimum.  Chances are, when you seal up the container with left over Durabak, it will be rock hard within 2 or 3 days.  This basically ends your chance to go back and touch up later unless you have a container that the seal has not been broken.  

The Durabak will look great at first, but you will find over time that it stains very easy and is almost impossible to keep clean.  Also, if you are trying to hide any deck imperfections, they will show back up after a little time.

I ground down the Durabak the best I could and went over it with Kiwigrip.  Yes, Kiwigrip is water based and makes clean up a breeze.  Kiwigrip is thick like gelcoat so it will do a great job sealing and covering any deck imperfections.  The shelf life of Kiwigrip is great from what I have seen.  I popped open the gallon container that I used 6 months ago.  It has not dried up at all.  That will allow me to go back and touch up if I need to in the future.

The main advantage with Kiwigrip is with the special roller they send you, you can control how "aggressive" you want it to be.  It does not have the rubber particles in it like Durabak has.

When you ordered the Durabak did you get the smooth or textured?  The reason why is I would suggest that you put down the textured coat first and then follow it with a smooth coat.  This will make it less aggressive and a little easier to keep clean.

In summary, I have found Kiwigrip to be far superior to Durabak.  My deck looks and has held up so much better with Kiwigrip versus Durabak.  I would personally send the Durabak back and go with Kiwigrip.

[GoneFission]

Thanks JD - this kind of info is what CAS is all about - real life feedback from someone who has "been there - done that"    I was a bit of a Duraback fan based on commercial use, but I would probably go to Kiwigrip based on your experience.  

[h20ryder]

Ended up sanding down the gelcoat area that had the crazing. The gelcoat is really thin on the bottom by the bow. Bought a West System book about crazing and gelcoat so following the info on grinding out cracks, wiping with alcohol, and filling with epoxy filler.

Planning on painting the boat with Awlgrip instead of gelcoating. Lots of epoxy hull repair so gelcoating is probably out.

Thanks for the info about your experience with Durabak JD.
I read your writeup about it on here and on THT. Sounded/looked like it was having issues cracking because the surface below it was cracking. My entire interior is brand new and I didn't think I would have to worry about that. Found a couple other write ups about the best way to clean Durabak but I know if I am not careful it will stain for sure. I may end up doing Kiwigrip on floor and cap with Durabak just on the hull vertical walls. There are so many good and bad reviews about every non-skid on the web it can make your head spin.

Got 2 gallons of textured and one quart of smooth per recommendation of the guys at Durabak. They said once I lay down 2 layers if I think it is too aggressive just roll a smooth coat over it.

[jdupree]

Ended up sanding down the gelcoat area that had the crazing. The gelcoat is really thin on the bottom by the bow. Bought a West System book about crazing and gelcoat so following the info on grinding out cracks, wiping with alcohol, and filling with epoxy filler.

Planning on painting the boat with Awlgrip instead of gelcoating. Lots of epoxy hull repair so gelcoating is probably out.

Thanks for the info about your experience with Durabak JD.
I read your writeup about it on here and on THT. Sounded/looked like it was having issues cracking because the surface below it was cracking. My entire interior is brand new and I didn't think I would have to worry about that. Found a couple other write ups about the best way to clean Durabak but I know if I am not careful it will stain for sure. I may end up doing Kiwigrip on floor and cap with Durabak just on the hull vertical walls. There are so many good and bad reviews about every non-skid on the web it can make your head spin.

Got 2 gallons of textured and one quart of smooth per recommendation of the guys at Durabak. They said once I lay down 2 layers if I think it is too aggressive just roll a smooth coat over it.

I personally think you will be much happier with Kiwigrip especially since you have a "fresh canvas" to work with.  Whichever you decide, let me know and I could most likely give you some tips for putting down.

[h20ryder]

Finally got around to taking the cap off. Made a template of all the old core before cutting it out since it was totally rotten. Layed a fresh layer of 1708 and ran a 3/4" PVC conduit wire run. Used my templates to cut out new 1/2" ACX for the new core which will be sealed with some 10oz glass.
Also started rigging my console.

[Capt. Bob]

Very nice.

[RickK]

That's a big ole console  

[gran398]

Everything looks great. Like the bulkhead mount compass too

On the Morse...would go ahead and put a good coat of wax on it and leave it on, even though its inside. Was pretty shocked how quickly it began the pitting process.

[h20ryder]

Yup console is pretty big. Designed around sitting on my Dometic SeaLand 975 throne. I'm 6'2" and I still have to hunch a little to fit.

Thanks gran, good suggestion on the wax especially since it isn't a real Morse (ebay copy). Just carnauba wax?

[h20ryder]

1/2" ACX core installed and glassed. Routed all edges so 10oz glass would roll over the edges smoothly. Time to flip it and put it back on the boat.

[RickK]

Sweet      

[h20ryder]

Top cap is back on the boat. 100 new stainless #14 truss head screws with fender washers and nylon lock nuts. Also grinded every single old screw hole in the cap and filled with thickened 406 West System. Sanded fair then rolled Sea Hawk epoxy high build primer.
Hull had some bad spider cracks along the keel along with a big flat spot from beaching. Grinded back 5' of the gelcoat and glass until cracks were gone then layed 3 layers of overlapping 1708. Also grinded back all 3 of the bow eye locations and reglassed with 4 layers of 1708.
Using a dremel with small sanding wheel to grind out every single gel coat blister no matter how small. Swiss cheese hull!

[RickK]

Wow, looks/sounds like you've been busy  

[fishinonthebrain]

Wow, looks/sounds like you've been busy  

X2