Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild

[dburr]

That will be a little small for a compressor tank, but it will also depend on how rugged (CFM@90 psi) the compressor itself is.  
No matter though, it will be a pile easier then long boarding.  Really important to take the time to run through the numbers on grits, it will save you a bunch of time and effort.. If I am preaching to the choir, I apologize.

Small sections, good mask and killer tunes and all will be good! It will start out taking 4x the time you think is should but will speed up.  
Farley said in a different post to change the paper when it stops cutting.. That is another seriously important thing to get the feel of because all you end up doing is generating heat and wasting time.  

One of those abrasive stick cleaners such as http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5518&utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=&utm_content=pla&utm_campaign=PLA&gclid=CJWk3tz49bcCFYii4Aod2FMADw

is worth the money!! Just be careful on the inline that you don't slip with it, that's a damn good way to smash a knuckle..  Yes I did wanna cry a little when it happened   ...

Sharp scrapers are the best for getting rid of sags, drips and runs.. It'd be the best $18 you spend.. http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=4898&site=ROCKLER

I am not pushing Rockler stuff, they just popped up first with Google.. :twisted:

[h20ryder]

Thanks dburr. This is all new to me so any info helps!

Got all setup to use my new air inline sander but it was broken out of the box. Back to the store it goes.

2 days of manual blocking and having a lot of trouble knowing where I have sanded completely so I decided to use some Awlgrip 545 to help identify highs and lows. Probably have 2-3 layers of fairing compound to do to get this thing flat and nice. Overwhelmed by 22' of hull so going to break up the work and only do one section at a time until it is perfect, then move to the next.

Do I have to sand the 545 primer before putting more fairing compound over it? Does it need tooth from 80 grit or does primer already have tooth?

[dirtwheelsfl]

The majority of that primer will be sanded off, but yes scuff it all.      If youre really looking for perfect consistent corners and whatnot make some different contoured blocks to sand em with, that jitterbug sander will leave dips and such. When I get close to final fairing sometimes ill mix some food coloring and denatured alcohol and mark the surface. Cheap n easy!

[gran398]

Marking dips....many builders go with cheap black spray paint. Acetone bath when through.

[h20ryder]

Notched troweling didn't really help. Just made the entire unfair surface higher. Filled the notches with more compound and tried to knock it all flat again.

Got some Rit Dye and denatured alcohol and going to try that so I can just spot fill lows.

Starting piling compound pretty high then using a batten (rigid metal ruler) to drag the surface flat. Seems to be the best method so far. I hope the bow is the tough part and the rest of the hull gets easier because patience is running thin

[love2fish]

I'd suggest just some $.99 spray paint if you're sanding it all off. 545 is pretty expensive dust!
Also- while it looks great- dont forget your non-skid will help cover a lot of imperfections. Concentrate your detail sanding on the smooth painted areas.
Also the bigger sander you get (surface pad) the better "flat" surface you'll end up with. Try handing a light at the edge so it'll cast a shadow over any low points.

[CLM65]

IMO no hinges is a mistake. Every time you open a hatch you will need to place the hatch down on the deck which is a safety issue. Not only the hatch itself lying on the deck but the opening as well is a safety issue.

Piano hinges are an option, personally I'd go with these;

http://www.foreandaftmarine.com/AC-713.htm

That hinge looks awesome, especially if you have enough room to lay the open hatch down flat on the deck.  But will that type of hinge (with two hinge pins) allow you to get enough compression on a gasket to keep water out?  I'm afraid that type of hinge would allow too much flexibility on the hinged side.  I'm sure it would be fine if you have gutters and are not worried about where the water goes, but if you are looking for a water-tight seal would they work?

Craig, great observation!  I agree they will not work in the manner you describe and will flex.  For what h2oryder wants to accomplish the piano hinges will be the best option.  Although, even with a compression fit those hatches will be wet due to the fact that the openings do not have drip rails and are not plumbed.

FYI, I was curious about how those 180 degree (double pin) hinges would work and how much slop they have, so I picked up one from Gemlux.  I must say that I am surprised at how little slop there actually is.  The middle piece has little "ears" that pretty much keep the two halves of the hinge in alignment.  Perhaps not as tight as normal hinges, but pretty close.  The drawing for the Accon hinge in the link shows similar ears to the Gemlux, and it is about twice as expensive, so it may work even better.  It is also 316 vs 304 SS.

[gran398]

That hinge looks awesome, especially if you have enough room to lay the open hatch down flat on the deck.  But will that type of hinge (with two hinge pins) allow you to get enough compression on a gasket to keep water out?  I'm afraid that type of hinge would allow too much flexibility on the hinged side.  I'm sure it would be fine if you have gutters and are not worried about where the water goes, but if you are looking for a water-tight seal would they work?[/quote]
Craig, great observation!  I agree they will not work in the manner you describe and will flex.  For what h2oryder wants to accomplish the piano hinges will be the best option.  Although, even with a compression fit those hatches will be wet due to the fact that the openings do not have drip rails and are not plumbed.[/quote]

FYI, I was curious about how those 180 degree (double pin) hinges would work and how much slop they have, so I picked up one from Gemlux.  I must say that I am surprised at how little slop there actually is.  The middle piece has little "ears" that pretty much keep the two halves of the hinge in alignment.  Perhaps not as tight as normal hinges, but pretty close.  The drawing for the Accon hinge in the link shows similar ears to the Gemlux, and it is about twice as expensive, so it may work even better.  It is also 316 vs 304 SS.[/quote]

Both are great products.

Before you purchase...check the Orcas hinges, pop-cleats, etc., available through manufacturers. You can search the web...however, the supply chain is closely held.

We were fortunate to source them. Will be happy to help via PM.

[h20ryder]

They had a set of those hinges at West Marine so I played with them a little. They do look awesome but will flex and prevent a watertight seal. Stationary probably wouldn't be an issue but bouncing on some ruff water and they may lift or even constantly rattle.
Went with some SeaDog flush mount hinges instead ordered on the net. I'm happy with how they will look and they seem to be good quality.



Got lots done this weekend. 4th coat of filler on bow followed by some Sherwin Williams SeaGuard high build primer (way cheaper than 545 and I get really good pricing on it). It is totally fair and only needs a few tiny touch ups where no Kiwi Grip will be. Hopefully will have the interior completely primed by the weekend.





Gran PM sent

[h20ryder]

Interior fully primed. Finished cutting and glassing all the hatches too for fairing and priming this week. All 13 latches and 22 hinges will be countersunk by the end of the week.
Just having everything all white makes it feel like so much of the hard part is over!

[ashley]

Looks great!

[h20ryder]

Been working on the hatch doors non stop for the past few weeks. Sanding between 3 coats of epoxy primer and now fighting Interlux Perfection.
Just sanded coat 4 of Interlux and think I have it figured out (using roll and tip method).
Paint looks perfect when I walk away from it but the next day it looks like it has sand all over it. It must be dust that is settling in my garage while the paint is curing. Time to build a makeshift paint booth in the garage?
I don't really mind fisheyes in the paint because most will be covered with kiwigrip but the dust creates little sharp peaks that look terrible.
Maybe propping up the hatch doors vertically while drying will reduce the area for dust to settle?

[Capt. Bob]

It must be dust that is settling in my garage while the paint is curing. Time to build a makeshift paint booth in the garage?

I can't speak for anywhere else but here in Tally Fla. it would look exactly the same.
Lots of airborne particulates, mostly pollen.

Booth might help.

[Capt Matt]

Kiwi will hide just about anything
I thought making 7 hatches was a lot of wrk lol
Capt Matt

[h20ryder]

Made a 6'x6'x8' sealed paint booth in my garage with PVC and plastic sheeting. Worked great to keep the dust off the curing paint but the temp inside got too hot and the tipping didn't work and there are brush marks on all 13 hatches. Looks like they were painted with a wisk broom...so back to wet sanding and coat 6!
Can I run kiwigrip all the way to the edge of the hatches? Or do I need a smooth surface to help chanel water?
Was going to paint the exterior of the hull with Perfection but trashing that idea. Completely over that product.

Any other 2 part paints that can be rolled and tipped then wet sanded for the final coat on the hull??