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Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild
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Topic: Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild (Read 34292 times)
June 12, 2012, 12:21:54 PM
Read 34292 times
h20ryder
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West Coast
Posts:
134
Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild
«
on:
June 12, 2012, 12:21:54 PM »
Hello everyone.
New to posting on this forum but have been on here for a few months reading and searching other owners builds. Really has helped me a lot! (and ClassicMako another great site).
Bought this boat a few months back and previous owner and DMV say its a 1999 "SeaFlite" although after searching for weeks finally found a few random pics of an Aquasport 222 and knew that had to be what this is.
Transom was such a basket case and hack job that I can't pull the HIN off clearly to identify year. Can anyone help just based on pics?
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June 12, 2012, 01:18:21 PM
Reply #1
Blue Agave
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Posts:
1495
Re: Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild
«
Reply #1 on:
June 12, 2012, 01:18:21 PM »
Based on the photo and the air ducts on the cap, I'd guess the year to be '73, '74, or a '75.
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1975 19-6
3.0 EFI Mercury 150 4S
"Don't count the days make the days count." - Muhammad Ali
June 12, 2012, 01:27:08 PM
Reply #2
gran398
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Purgatory
Posts:
7440
Re: Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild
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Reply #2 on:
June 12, 2012, 01:27:08 PM »
Correct on the year range Fern.
Not the original console.
Is it possible to blacken-up the hull ID #'s on the transom?
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June 12, 2012, 01:40:45 PM
Reply #3
h20ryder
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West Coast
Posts:
134
Re: Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild
«
Reply #3 on:
June 12, 2012, 01:40:45 PM »
Thanks for the input. HIN on transom has been repaired from about 14 inches down all the way up to the cap.
Fiberglass paint stripper pulled most of the 3 different paints/gelcoats off and shows 2 different sets of numbers but there is a repair seam running through both so it is all jumbled.
If I can pinpoint it will DMV correct the title?
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June 12, 2012, 02:39:12 PM
Reply #4
slvrlng
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1817
Re: Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild
«
Reply #4 on:
June 12, 2012, 02:39:12 PM »
All you need are the last 3 digits. If it is one of those years then it would have 2 numbers and then a letter. As is in mine: 83G, October of 1983.
Registering it might be a problem anywhere without the complete number, each state is a little different and until you check you won't know how many hoops you have to jump through! It could end up getting a homemade number.
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Lewis
1983 222 Osprey "Slipaway"
1973 19-6 "Emily Lynn"
June 12, 2012, 03:48:30 PM
Reply #5
Blue Agave
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1495
Re: Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild
«
Reply #5 on:
June 12, 2012, 03:48:30 PM »
In the early seventies the "G" would represent the month of February.
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1975 19-6
3.0 EFI Mercury 150 4S
"Don't count the days make the days count." - Muhammad Ali
June 12, 2012, 04:25:11 PM
Reply #6
h20ryder
Information
West Coast
Posts:
134
Re: Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild
«
Reply #6 on:
June 12, 2012, 04:25:11 PM »
Here is the progress on my new transom and stringers.
Transom was built from the inside. Inner skin layup with 1708, ¾ inch ACX plywood, sandwiched 1708, ¾ inch ACX plywood, then 3 layers of 1708. Feels really strong.
Transom was done with West System epoxy but switched to US Composites epoxy for stringers and sole.
Entire floor was grinded and sanded then covered in one layer of 1708 except in the rear where there was a lot of oil canning so I used 2 layers of 1708 and one layer of 24 oz roving.
Stringers are 28 inches apart which was based on the strakes and fitting in my new 65 gallon fuel tank.
Stringers are double ½ inch ACX plywood sandwiched with 2 layers of 6 oz cloth between them. Also screwed with stainless screws at joints. 2x4’s in pics are just holding things square and will be removed and ACX bulkheads installed.
Questions:
I want to wet out the entire stringers with unthickened epoxy in 2 coats. Do I need to sand the first coat before applying the second? Or is it better to let coat 1 get tacky then apply coat 2 wet-on-wet?
Also, should I tab the entire length of the stringers in at one time with the side support “wings” removed or can I tie the “wings” in to the hull at the same time?
Using PL Premium adhesive to bed the stringer system to the hull.
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June 12, 2012, 04:51:46 PM
Reply #7
love2fish
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638
Re: Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild
«
Reply #7 on:
June 12, 2012, 04:51:46 PM »
Most people try to have at least 1 1/2" thick stringers/bulkheads/ribs so they have plenty of material to screw the deck down too... only 1" doesn't leave a lot of support on the joints where your floor pieces will meet, or give you any really solid place to anchor your center console or whatever else you plan to attach to the deck.
Looks like you're off to a really clean start! Based on where the inside "drip edge" of the cap stops I would say you have a 74. depending on the year, i have seen them where they wrap all the way around the interior or stop a little more forward like yours.
Whats your overall plan for the boat?
I only have experience with Poly resin, but I know with that, a wet on wet (just before it kicks) is the best when layering, and anything after 24hrs needs to be sanded to removed the top "film"... I think epoxy is generally the same.
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Chris
\'74 22-2
Member #921
June 12, 2012, 05:55:00 PM
Reply #8
h20ryder
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West Coast
Posts:
134
Re: Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild
«
Reply #8 on:
June 12, 2012, 05:55:00 PM »
Thanks love2fish. Oh, so I should have used thicker wood for the stringers? I guess I can pattern another ½ inch ACX board for each side to get the 1.5 inch total thickness pretty easily.
Then I wouldn’t need to add cleats to the bulkheads for attaching the new sole? Just drill a pilot hole and attach straight into the stringer itself and it won’t separate the plywood layers?
Plans for the boat are a new center console that I have already built and glassed in my garage that will hold all electronics and a head. Will add pics soon. I have also modified a 45 gallon baitwell to incorporate a leaning post all as one unit.
I really want a T-Top and the Stryker Tower guys are local so eventually I hope to get one unless a nice used one can be found.
Front casting deck will be modified to a vee shaped seating setup with removable center section so it can still be used as a bed.
This will be a weekend recreation fisher for San Clemente Island/Catalina Island as well as a surf boat for accessing some good waves privately owned by the local military bases that I can’t get land access to.
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June 13, 2012, 12:07:32 PM
Reply #9
h20ryder
Information
West Coast
Posts:
134
Re: Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild
«
Reply #9 on:
June 13, 2012, 12:07:32 PM »
What are thoughts on the liners in these boats?
Are they supposed to contact the hull walls?
Or is there supposed to be an air space between the hull and liner to prevent hard spots on the vertical hull walls?
If they touch the hull sides wouldn’t that create chatter?
I have ½ inch plywood spacers between the hull walls and liner right now that will be pulled out after the sole is tabbed and cured. Is this right?
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June 13, 2012, 02:23:54 PM
Reply #10
dburr
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890
Re: Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild
«
Reply #10 on:
June 13, 2012, 02:23:54 PM »
Before you get to much farther along, do a couple of destructive tests on screwing into end grain on plywood. The results will scare you...
Any place you plan on fastening something, put a cleat of a substraght that will REALLY hold a fastener, not end grain..... With all that fine work you are doing it would be a shame not to have it all last. If you mortise out the ply where your landings will be for the console and T top then set cleats in you will be ok. The faying surfaces can be glued up with thickened epoxy.. My own twisted sense of over kill would be a laminate thickness of 4" wide at the top, 3 deep (for good contact) and length as needed of your on hand 1/2 ply immediately below the mortise. Then on top of that if you don't want to spring for G-10 (I totally understand, not sure if I would either) then lam up what you have on hand to get at least 2 inches to fasten into.. You could evan plan to over drill holes, fill with epoxy, then drill and tap for machine screws to keep everything sealed.
There are better ways to do it, this is just one way that would let me sleep at night with no worries
And fine work!! Great to see such good progress
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Dave
88 222 Osprey
00 Yamaha OX66 150
CAS # 2590
June 13, 2012, 04:12:00 PM
Reply #11
h20ryder
Information
West Coast
Posts:
134
Re: Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild
«
Reply #11 on:
June 13, 2012, 04:12:00 PM »
I ended up adding another layer of 1/2 inch ACX to both stringers last night to get the total of 1.5 inch overall thickness per suggestion by love2fish.
I'm all about over building for strength and already had the plywood so it was an easy choice!
Seems easier to glass over a square stringer than over some added cleat.
dburr do you think over drilling each hole and filling with epoxy then tapping would be strong enough to solve the end grain strength issue? 3/4 inch overall bore that goes down into all 3 stringer plys 3 inches filled with epoxy then drilled to take a 1/4 diameter 3 inch long stainless screw?
(Yellow object is PL Premium used to bed sole to stringer tops)
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June 13, 2012, 07:14:03 PM
Reply #12
dburr
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890
Re: Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild
«
Reply #12 on:
June 13, 2012, 07:14:03 PM »
That would take care of the console if the line up is on center of the stringer, but you are not leaving yourself much room for missalignment and keep in mind there is no where near the force on that as will be the T top.. The cleats could/can be beveled to make the glassing easier and the landing options are endless, pre formed FRP, Micarta, G-10, and good old ply.. The extra thickness also adds strength in both tension and compression, think I beam, and a place for the T top to land..
Take a look at grans post, Miss Delmarva pis at last and look at the stuff used to land his deck to hull, that is preformed FRP and will out last all of us..
Do you have a plan for mounting the T top? There is a pile of force on the feet at 40kts, again, another advantage for a landing on the stringers or cleats...
If you are happy with the fit margins and are confident it is strong enough then that is what counts. Remember that opinions and concerns offerd here are free and can be worth as much.
I am a fan of the trapezoid stringer and a big landing area for the decks and appendages
...
With the best of intentions...
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Dave
88 222 Osprey
00 Yamaha OX66 150
CAS # 2590
June 14, 2012, 12:05:59 PM
Reply #13
h20ryder
Information
West Coast
Posts:
134
Re: Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild
«
Reply #13 on:
June 14, 2012, 12:05:59 PM »
Thanks again dburr.
I like the trapezoid stringer shape too and know that is the strongest. Just wish my originals weren't so badly trashed and I could have kept them.
I think I am going to add boxes/trapezoids to the area of my stringers where I know the console and t-top will mount. Then I have more support to land on and it won't require a complete rebuild of my already completed stringers.
Added boxes in RED.
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June 14, 2012, 12:21:31 PM
Reply #14
dirtwheelsfl
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Master Rebuilder
Posts:
808
Re: Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild
«
Reply #14 on:
June 14, 2012, 12:21:31 PM »
Looking good! Sound advice youre getting too. Just an idea, on the underside of those red boxes you could glass in some aluminum plate to drill and tap into for top legs. I would just as soon bolt it totally to the console though. But i think you said it was already finished? Was just out your way in may, got salt creek a few feet overhead to ourselves for a couple hours, great wave!
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Classic AquaSport
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Aquasport Model Rebuilds, Mods, Updates and Refreshes
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Aquasport 222 identification and rebuild
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