78 22 FF Rebuild

[Curious]

Finally bit the bullet and decided to dig into my transom.  I opted for the going in through the top cap method and plan to pour Seacast/Nida-core/Arjay, (haven't decided yet).  First, I traced the outline of the transom onto a big piece of cardboard to help put everything back together at the end.  Cut the top cap off with a jig saw.  I didn't really know how far down the transom to go so I just guessed 1/2" and that was not enough.  Remeasured and cut again about 3/4" which did the trick.  Had one hell of a time cutting-  blades just didn't like the idea of going through fiberglass/plywood/fiberglass again (and some bondo come to find out).  Finally got the top cap off intact and drilled out as much as I could with a 1" auger bit then alternated the chainsaw/auger bit method.  

A couple of observations-  the top cap was separating from the rest of the transom and when I removed a transducer low on the transom it weeped a steady stream of water, however using the jumping up and down on the motor test, it only flexed a little.  Anyways, once I got into it, most of the plywood was clean and new looking, but saturated.  When I dug a screwdriver into it, a little water pushed up out of the wood.  There was also quite a bit of really black, smelly, saturated mulch looking stuff anywhere near a hole/scupper/garboard drain, etc.  In the end, it probably would have held up a few more years but I am also glad that I got it all out because now I know, and I'll feel a lot safer.

Got way down fairly quickly and then it got tedious.  Just had to keep drilling, chainsawing, blowing, vacuuming, repeat.  It was a real pain in the ass to be honest.  I ended up making up a new tool which I would patent if I had the time.  I put together a 6" and12" drill extension with a 1 1/2" forstner bit on the end and hooked it up to a 1/2" drill which I renamed Thor.  I felt like Popeye at the end of each day with rock hard forearms.  Anyways, it did the trick and I now have all the wet plywood out of the transom.  I backed the boat into my garage with a shoehorn and some Crisco and it is now drying out and waiting for the next step.

[Treefish]

Here's a little help...

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[love2fish]

once everything is all dried out in there, I think you'll have to find a way to scuff up the existing cured fiberglass where you removed the original core right? Otherwise I dont know if the new poured material will bond to the original skin. (I think that you have to anyway, I've never done this but plan to eventually on my 22-2).
I would think something like a paddle with sandpaper or a 1X4 with sandpaper wrapped on the end would be an easy way to get down in there.
Looking forward to following your build. Are you closing in your transom completely or recoring with the original cutout?

[Curious]

I will definately clean it up.  I'm going to try a 1" sanding wheel attached to my dril/drill extensions and I also have a rotary rasp to dig out the bigger chunks of material.  I'm also looking for a small flapper wheel but I'm not sure if they make them that small.  I would be able to get in there with the extensions and rough up the sides really good then try to clean with a solvent like paint thinner.  I'll try to get pics of all the tools I'm using and post here so you'll know what I'm  talking about.

I would love to enclose the whole thing and mount a bracket but money is tight and I have a 20" 200 Yamaha Saltwater Series ready to bolt on. So I'm going to return it to the original 20" height and create a well/transom door setup after the fact with starboard or similar material.  The boat actually came with an add on well of sorts which is kind of beat up but still useable.

[Curious]

Here's a little help...

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Thanks.  Notice the icicle dripping from the drain hole.  That was one of the two or three cold days we've had around here lately!

[bondobill]

Hey Curious, Looks good

Be extra careful with the inside skin of glass. On my 79 FF I found it to be paper thin. I had the outside skin off to remove the wood and I still popped through a few times

Good Luck

Bill

[Curious]

Thanks, Bondobill.  As I was getting ready to do this project, your posts were the ones I kept referring back to for images and tips.  I knew going into this that if it got too difficult I could still remove the back skin and dig the rest of the wood out.  To be honest, I almost did just that a couple of times out of sheer frustration.  But I stuck it out, and now I think I have a good base to start from.  I'm going to do the pour as soon as the weather warms up a bit and then cap and finish it off.  As a disclaimer, I am nowhere near a pro at this stuff... I know just enough to get myself into trouble.  But I have two very knowledgeable brothers who are going to help me as I go.  One is a really good carpenter with a fair amount of boat rebuild experience under his belt and the other is a master auto body/finish paint guy who has also tackled a few boat projects in his day.  Between them and all the help on this site, I think I'll be ok!

[gran398]

Absolutely, you'll be better than ok.

Bill's poured transom job was/is, from what I've seen...as good as it gets.

And to the extent that you can get it dried out completely...the roughing-up can be held to a minimum. As mentioned, sure don't want to bust through what is existing to make an "improvement."

I'd be all about that leaf-blower, and some light heat/heat lamps, carefully placed and monitored. Even a hair dryer session or two at the end.

Have a feeling you're going to get great results

[bondobill]

Thanks, Bondobill.  As I was getting ready to do this project, your posts were the ones I kept referring back to for images and tips.  I knew going into this that if it got too difficult I could still remove the back skin and dig the rest of the wood out.  To be honest, I almost did just that a couple of times out of sheer frustration.  But I stuck it out, and now I think I have a good base to start from.  I'm going to do the pour as soon as the weather warms up a bit and then cap and finish it off.  As a disclaimer, I am nowhere near a pro at this stuff... I know just enough to get myself into trouble.  But I have two very knowledgeable brothers who are going to help me as I go.  One is a really good carpenter with a fair amount of boat rebuild experience under his belt and the other is a master auto body/finish paint guy who has also tackled a few boat projects in his day.  Between them and all the help on this site, I think I'll be ok!

Hey with a AUTOBODY guy on board      you ain't going have nooooo problems. Only difference between fiberglass and bondo , fiberglass is harder to sand.  

Seriously , sounds like you got some good help on board.

Bill

[Curious]

Hey Curious, Looks good

Be extra careful with the inside skin of glass. On my 79 FF I found it to be paper thin. I had the outside skin off to remove the wood and I still popped through a few times

Good Luck

Bill

Bill thanks, I went out this morning in the dark and shined a flashlight at the transom from the inside and sure enough it is pretty thin down low and I did bust through in one small area.  What's interesting, though, is that the closer to the top of the inside skin is much thicker than the outside skin but it gets thin down low.

[Curious]

Gran, I tipped the trailer down lower in the front, ran a fan for a few hours over the inspection plate hole in the stern and ran a heat gun on some of the damp spots at the base of the transom.  Worked like a charm.  Looks pretty dry in there now.  I just have a few areas where there is still a skim of plywood still stuck to the inside skins.  I thought I would try a 1" sanding wheel to get it off/rough it up and then clean it of somehow with acetone or similar before the pour.  Also, at the very base there are some spots that look like cracked resin where the transom meets the bottom of the hull.  Should I add a layer of glass and matt to that for strength prior to the pour?

[gran398]

Super, get her dried out, good work.

Absolutely, put some more glass down there if you can. That is a high-load area, strength where you need it.

[Curious]

Getting closer!







Ended up going with the Nida-core pourable transom compound, or as the buckets I purchased state, "3M Composite Bonding Compound, Transom".  I purchased the product through Composites One in Bristol, RI.  They were very easy to deal with and I was able to pick the product up in their warehouse.  They were the closest distributor and I was able to save a small fortune in shipping costs.  The cost was $140.00 per 5 gallon pail for a total of $448.37 after tax.  I estimate that I need about 13 gallons total.  So now I am finishing up the prep and trying to decided what to do about the temperature situation.  I either have to try to heat the garage up to about 70 or wait for mother nature to heat things up, but I'm getting itchy to pour this thing and start on the finish.

[slippery73]

You probably can get away with the pour around 60º. The thickness of the pour will make it kick even at the lower temp, it will probably actually help, slower cure means a stronger cure.  Must mix the material really well with a drill and a large paddle , this will heat the material up itself and start the reaction process.  You can always set a couple heaters below the transom. We use the oil filled radiator type in our shop as they wont have any ignition points.

[Curious]

Thanks.  I had planned on using a propane heater until I started reading the warnings on the MSDS!!!!  I like the idea of the oil filled heater.  It was 50 degrees here for a little while today so I should be able to get the temp in the garage up to 60-65 on a day like that.  Only problem is everything has to line up just right with my helpers/temp/timing etc.  I have read that mixing is the most important part of getting this right.  I plan on using a 1/2 hp drill with a paint mixer for at least 3 minutes or so after I add the MEKP.  Does that sound cool?