1996 evinrude re-paint

[pvmacguy]

I've started the re-paint today of my 1996 evinrude, there are two different colors on the motor right since due to a botch paint job the original color is the dark metallic blue which I got a can of that. I have read and seen where I need to sand it down and then price with a zync chromate primer which I was able to find at west marine. I also read where not to prime the whole thing fully in the zync chromate to spray the area lightly with it and then follow up with a light coating of just a normal sand-able primer. Can anyone comment on that??

I've started sanding and so far it's looking nice and even and smooth.

[ceejkay]

with the zinc chromate primer a nice light coat that you can still see through is good.. if you dont paint within 24hrs scuff the primer up with a scotch bright.. just make sure before you primer you clean everything really good, even the littlest bit of residual oil will cause poor adhesion. im a big fan of cleaning everything with acetone and then right before you go to paint a final wipe with isopropl alcohol. be sure to get some lint free towels/rags for your final wipe

[fitz73222]

Hi Pvmacguy,

I started my working life at Marine Dealerships and was the shop grunt during high school and got to "experience" all the hands on that no body wanted to do but one of things I did learn was engine prep for paint. We had a fanatic shop foreman that insisted that our rebuilds and recon engines were perfect so this is what I learned.

1) Complete exterior wet sand with 3M 220 wet sandpaper down to primer or bare metal depending on the level of nicks and scratches.
2) Fill all nicks and scratches with glazing putty (Big red tube) looks like clay when it drys.
3) Wet sand with 400, repeat process until all the nicks and scratches are filled. Wipe down with Acetone and a tack cloth.

4) Light dusting of Zinc Cromate. I don't think you can buy Zinc Cromate any longer, now replaced with Zinc Phosphate. (Green primer)
5) Wet sand with 400 until smooth and scratches feathered out.
6) Re-prime with Zinc
7) Light dry sand with 400.
8) Wipe with tack cloth
9) Paint with three layers of factory top coat, light coats each time and wait about 10-15 minutes between coats.
10) Last coat, a little heavy to get the shine.

This was all done with rattle cans and they came out perfect.

[RickK]

Nice synopsis Fitz  
My arms are hurting just reading the steps. And that was just the cowling :(

[GoneFission]

This may seem obvious, but just to be sure - you only need the zinc primer on aluminum parts - don't use it on plastic or fiberglass parts like the cowling.  

[dburr]

2) Fill all nicks and scratches with glazing putty (Big red tube) looks like clay when it drys.

Any relation to glazing compound for windows?

[kraw2]

No not for windows. It's automotive or marine glazing or finishing compound. It's a compound with hardener. Very easy to sand and less pin holes than filler or bondo type fillers.

[pbustle]

I just did this to my 1996 130 Evinrude.  My engine was two seperate colors from the factory.  The cowling & pans were base coat/clear coat and the midsection and lower unit were single stage.  While they are intended to be the same color and they are from the same mix of PPG paint, they will never look identical because of the base/clear vs single stage.

I had to replace the steering arm in the midsection so my entire midsection was disasembled and painted individual pieces before reasembly.  I do not think that is neccisary, but it makes for a damn nice job when finished.  All my parts except for the cowling/pans were either sanded down or sandblasted and then primed with zinc primer out of the rattle can before single stage paint. I used High build primer on the cowling/pans because they were so beat up, then I used PPG omni paint and PPG clear.  I can get the paint codes and actual paint if you need it.

For the trim unit, i actually just painted it black because I didnt buy enough of the Evinrude paint to get it done.  No one sees it anyway so I didnt care.

Hope this is helpful.

[pbustle]

By the way, I had to wet sand and buff the cowling & pans.  I did this with 1500/2000 wet adn then buffed with 3M Perfect it.  Came out really great.

[gran398]

Very helpful. Good post Pat.

Stick around. And don't be gone so long.

 

[gran398]

No not for windows. It's automotive or marine glazing or finishing compound. It's a compound with hardener. Very easy to sand and less pin holes than filler or bondo type fillers.

3M makes it. Comes in a big white squeeze tube (jumbo toothpaste). The material is red.

For finish work only, for professional use only.  Available at your local body shop supply house.

The general public is unaware of this product.

 Apply with a plastic bondo spreader.

[slvrlng]

The stuff gran is talking about is an acrylic based material. the one with the hardener is a styrene based material. The non hardened stuff I usually apply with a razor blade as it is good for rock chips and not much else. The hardened material you can actually "glaze or spread thinly over a large area" and it will work fine. I can't imagine trying to sand the non hardened stuff on a large wiped area. It is basically a thickened primer. It also shrinks and your imperfections show up under the finish. It came from the time everyone used lacquer paint which is really hard to find now and is old technology.

[fitz73222]

The stuff gran is talking about is an acrylic based material. the one with the hardener is a styrene based material. The non hardened stuff I usually apply with a razor blade as it is good for rock chips and not much else. The hardened material you can actually "glaze or spread thinly over a large area" and it will work fine. I can't imagine trying to sand the non hardened stuff on a large wiped area. It is basically a thickened primer. It also shrinks and your imperfections show up under the finish. It came from the time everyone used lacquer paint which is really hard to find now and is old technology.

Dear Lewis,

You can still buy rattle can lacquer based OEM paint for outboards just like 30 years ago. Whats changed is the VOC's or propellant compounds in order to save the planet. The other thing I forgot to mention earlier is I always make sure that I use the same manufacturer for the primer and topcoat to ensure chemistry compatability. I still use the glazing putty with excellent results; like any other body work, shrinkage is part of the equation and you build in layers until the imperfection is gone. I'm only speaking from experience because I've done this numerous times; I try to limit the amount of conjecture when I speak on a particular subject because it always bites you in the butt later on.

[bondobill]

Got to agree with Lewis on this one.
My username should explain what I do for a living.
 With the products available today, should be no need to fill, sand, more than once.
The catalized polyester puttys on the market today are far superior as far as dry times, sandability, and shrinkage.
Scotts suggestion of visiting a auto body supply store is right on,
USC and 3M both make some fine products.
 Hat goes off to Fitz tho,  getting good results with that red putty is a lot of work,I grew up with that stuff, like Rick said my arms get tired just thinking about it.

Bill

[wingtime]

My Johnsons cover was covered in these small pits:



I filled them with a premium bondo and as usual I spread on way too thick of a coat and I had to sand it for what seamed like forever.  I was going to pick up some of the catalyzed glazing putty but I didn't.  I wish I had...  anyways the results using BRP rattle cans came out good: