1978 20' Proline Classic Rebuild

[melba toast]

Yes, four stringers, except the tank area.

I am going to lay a flat shelf to support the tank. I also will glass in a wall along the sides of the tank. I am not sure exactly what material we will use, whatever is available. I doubt I will use the 2" foam unless we have a ton of it leftover.

[dirtwheelsfl]

Full flat shelf is the way to go. Not sure what you mean by walls on the sides? Why not just let the stringers be outside of the "coffin"? Make sure you put drainage between the 2 tank bulkheads. (Under the shelf) I glassed some half round pvc between mine i believe.

[RickK]

Any updates?

[melba toast]

*Had a little issue with password recovery, but finally figured it out. to make a long story short:

Having my third kid and a significant proline induced back injury (herniated L5 with sciatica ) halted my progress recently. My lean-to tarp also got destroyed by recent storms. I have a new canopy style shelter under construction, pics coming soon. The bulkheads are compete. I will be forming and glassing rear inboard stringers next.



Bulkheads glassed and capped



Stern floor stringers removed, glass mostly prepped for matte/biaxial/matte reinforcing layer. New inboard stringers to be added next

[gran398]

Thanks for keeping us apprised. She's looking good

Know what you've been through, Lewis has as well. Best on your continued recovery.

[RickK]

Glad to see you back at it  

[melba toast]

I got a new canopy set up. I used the frames from two old canopies that were laying in pieces behind the shop. I ordered an 8 mil 12 x 30 tarp and lashed one side to my existing posts. Poles support the other side. I still have a little tweaking to do, but you get the idea.



New home for the 20 Proline.

[melba toast]

I finished my cleanup and grind for the stern floor area, and glassed in a matte/biaxial/matte layer today. I also have reference lines set, so that I can measure for the fit on my stern inboard stringers. Once I have the stringers set in putty, I will also construct a set of stringer knees and putty them in also. The knees will help stiffen the transom and also serve as walls for a transom compartment box. This box will hid all my steering cables and wiring that will run from my motor, trim tabs, and power pole.

I am also likely to be helping on this mold below. A good friend of mine designed and built a plug, then created this mold. The gelcoat is in and they were prepping to lay the first layers of glass in the mold when I left. I will be helping with additional layers of glass in the morning. Here is a link to his project: http://www.microskiff.com/cgi-bin/yabb2 ... 42645031/0



Stern floor area reinforced with a matte/biaxial/matte. Reference lines set to measure for stringers.




Fowl River Tunnel Boat with gelcoat setting up.




Another tunnel pic.

[RickK]

Good progress on yours and nice tunnel hull.  

[melba toast]

With the floor reinforced, I took some measurements of my reference line. I like to take my foam home and cut and shape it in the garage in my spare time. Good measurements made for a perfect fit. I set the stringer in putty first, followed by the knee. I got by later and coated the foam with resin for adhesion (not pictured). One more touch up with putty in a few spots, followed by light sanding and clean up, and I am ready to glass this port inboard stringer and knee. I am doing one side at a time simply because its a little less awkward.




Port side stringer set in putty




Port side stringer and knee set in microballoon putty  

[melba toast]

Port side glass work complete, glass is curing in this picture. Begining to set starboard stringer in putty here.



Another look at the port side knee, also got the starboard stringer setting up in putty today.I shifted the stringer slightly inboard in the pic.



Now the knee is set, I also cut glass to fit, a little quick cleanup and grind and I am ready to glass





Inboard Stringers and Knees Glassed

I may add a biaxial/matte layer to the entire transom and recap the stringers with another layer before heading up to the bow. The project is looking a little cluttered in the pics, I am due for a clean up day very soon!





Here is the finished boat that a friend found on hull truth

1974 20' Pro Line "Flat-back" Rebuilt and just re powered with the new Mercury 150 four stroke, 8' Power pole, Lowrance StructureScan, 36volt Troller, Trim Tabs, Yeti Coolers, 35gal. live well. Has been a great boat for the Tampa Bay Area.

[melba toast]

All along, we assumed the biaxial/matte material that I was working with was 2408. It was some stuff Mike had got a real deal on, from somebody that went out of business. None of the boxes were labeled, but you could tell it was THICK - a real chore to wet out. Well, thanks to the fowl river build, I got a look at of some true 1808 and it looked twice as thick. I guess we now know what the numbers 3610 mean (that were written on a few sections of it with a marker). Most of my layup has been with 3610! Its going to be a heavier boat, but it will be solid as a rock.

I am well on my way to finally finishing the stringers in the next week or two. All I have left is the inboard set up front. The grinding work is especially tough here, because the dust swirls right back at you working up near the bow. Just another hour with a shop vac, a better fan, and another grinding disk or two -  and I am ready to glass



Additional layer of Biaxial/Matte added to beef up stringers and knees.



Front inboard stringers removed, most of the significant grinding/prep work complete for reinforcing glass and last section of stringers

I spent a lot of time at the shop the last two days, mostly thinking :) I am at the critical point where I have to establish the size of my casting deck and the subfloor for the compartments underneath them. The stringer height will make the foundation for the subfloor.


Last piece of hull prepped for reinforcing glass, starting to set reference lines here.




After setting four of reference lines, I jotted down these measurements to cut my foam. *Note: I am setting my stringer height 5 1/4" lower in the last 5'5" of these stringers to set the foundation for a subfloor - this will run under my 5'5" front casting deck.




Fiber-Plastics glass cutting table - lots of quality time spent here (look at that scrap pile!), getting stuff pre-cut to beef up floor before I putty in stringers. Adding a 3610 biaxial and a 1.5 ox matte on the whole floor, plus 2 extra layers of 1.5 oz matte and 45/45 biaxial in the keel and chine areas, Extra glass up front for the areas most likely to encounter an issue down the road.

[RickK]

Looking good.  

[melba toast]

The bottom of the hull is completely reinforced now. I put a LOT of glass in the keel and up near the bow. (2) 1.5 oz matte, a 45/45 biaxial, and layer of 3610 overalspping in the keel!

I had to cut into my outboard stringers a bit to account for my wide cooler (hull width by 30"). It should be wide enough to hold a cobia. I will recap these stringers with glass as I go. This cooler will be insulated by 2" foam. It still will drain out the side of the boat, above the waterline, thus no fish slime in the bilge. The bottom of the cooler should be about 1/2" above the floor height. The foam is cut for my new inboard stringers and the putty is mixed. I should be glassing in the final set of inboard stringers next week.



Setting up front casting deck, cooler, and storage





Floor reinforced. Now, the whole hull bottom has a 3610 biaxial matte and a 1.5 oz matte bow to stern with 2 extra mattes and a 45/45 in the keel





Cutting stringers down 1 1/2" to 2" to make room for 2" cooler foam. Stringers radiused, a little more prep down the sides and I will recap






This shows the thickness of the layup - a good 3/8" of glass in those stringers.

[gman 82 aquasport]

She's looking great, and the word strong just doesn't seem to cover your hull now...can't wait to see what the front deck looks like when installed Like the way the knees turned out, everything looks great and you're making great progress