1978 20' Proline Classic Rebuild

[melba toast]

No question I am itching. I forgot the long sleeve shirt today and paid the price. We have some of those paper suits around too, I think I wear one for the serious grinding. The transom work is tough going, probably another 4-5 hours to get it all prepped out. I saw some softer spots that I may get to Thursday when I have some more time. Man I wish the whole transom was as rotten as the stringers!

[slvrlng]

Here is a trick I learned from an old bodyman friend 30 years ago to combat the itch. Take some tape (I like using masking but duct will work). Roll it into a ball backwards on itself with the glue on the outside. Once you get it to about 1" in diameter roll it on your skin over and over wherever you can feel the fibers. The fibers that are stuck in your skin will stick to the glue and be pulled out. It doesn't get them all but it does get a majority. If you look like the geico caveman there is not much you can do other than where there is no hair. Try this it really works!

[gran398]

Itch? Coat yourself in massage oil before you start.

Prevents sticking.

Then...what goes on in Vegas stays in Vegas.

[melba toast]

I got after the remainder of the wood with the prybar and chizel today. It took about two more hours. I took out about 15 screws on both sides of the rubrail and lifted the cap enough to finish the ends. Then I took a grinder to all the inside of the skin and a good 5-6" of the bottom and sides of the hull. Everything is set to layup the new transom next week. I wore a long sleeve shirt, a mask, googles, and a paper suit for the grinding. I also had a huge fan pulling the dust away from me. I was well protected. Not itching today.

We checked around about coosa board. The 3/4 inch is a good deal more per sheet. So, I am probably going to go with a single sheet of the 1 3/8 inch board. We actually wanted to get 1 1/2 inch. but its probably too long of a wait. I am going to lay a matte woven matte layer on the inside of the skin, then a woven and matte, and possibly a biaxial to the coosa and then clamp it while still wet. The new glass, plus the old skin, plus the coosa, plus the exterior glass, should give me a 2 inch transom and Mike says that is beefy enough. We will also be using stringer knees and glassing it to a divinyl cell floor. That's the current plan anyway. Suggestions welcome.


Only the stuff under the cap left


Cap lifted, most of the wood gone, time to grind


Ready for inspection, almost done


Finished up,  and ready to lay the new transom next week


Close up shot


Samples of core, note that the thicker 1 1/2" coosa has a layer of glass within it, stronger than the 3/4"

[slvrlng]

Are both of those samples bluewater 26? The one on the right looks like 20. You sir are making great progress!

[melba toast]

Not sure, I will ask. Thanks!

[dirtwheelsfl]

whats the pipe thing with the flanges?  something to sit on?  

i might grind further up into the bottom and sides. when you get that core in there youre only gonna have maybe 4" tabbing into the hull. maybe up as far as where the stringers are cut lower. the wider the tabs the better!

and if youre planning on doing all the grinding on this thing, invest in one of the full face respirators. youll be able to grind for hours in somewhat comfort. expensive but worth it the first time you use it!  looking good...

[melba toast]

Yeah, that is a seat!

I ground 6" up the sides and the bottom of hull. Atleast an inch wider than my 5" grinding disk. The pictures make it look a little decieving. Every inch of the boat will have to be ground eventually, so if it needs a little more, its not a big deal.
 
Funny you mention it. I actually have one of those fancy respirators at home. I will bring it and try it next time.

[gran398]

You look good on the demo

The 3/4 and 3/4 lam Coosa is tried and true.

Have been advised that the intermediate glass panel per that layup adds stiffening/great strength.

[melba toast]

Mike also discussed the advantages between one 1.5 sheet and and two 3/4" sheets... For my needs, we settled on a single sheet. I also had a guy tell me his friend had a 1.5" Bluewater 26 core in his boat and has twin 250 etecs on it! I am only hanging one 115, or a single 140 at the most on mine.

We went ahead with what was available, the one sheet of 1 3/8" Bluewater 26 coosa.  We will have roughly a 2" transom with 1 3/8 of it being coosa 26, and the other 5/8" being glass, using a good mixture of woven, matte, and biaxial.

I got the old tank popped out of its glass and foam cradle today. I have it drained out and am taking it to the scrap yard. My new tank will be totally different, so I threw everything out. I got my work space cleaned up a bit too, ready to start glassing in the transom one day next week.

[melba toast]

I got by the shop for a few hours today. I started in on the long task ahead - grinding the bottom to prep for new glass throughout and new stringers. I got about an hour of grinding in and then switched gears.

Mike and I cut and layed additonal layers of glass to the inside of the transom skin. We glassed in two layers that were a matte/biaxial combo, followed by a final layer of matte. We had to work fast to finish before curing started. The goal is to beef up the glass work inside and outside of the 1 3/8 26 coosa. We will also be adding more glass when we install to achieve a 2 inch thickness.


Cutting layers to fit


All exterior holes taped and exterior of transom waxed


Layers glassed in

[melba toast]

Big day, got the transom core in. I did another hour of grinding the floor, and then started on the core. The 1 3/8" bluewater 26 was substaintial and sufficient. The dry fit was excellent. The board I used was a bit warped, which helped with the slightly rounded transom. I also used wooden wedges off the old stringers. I used a matte. woven, matte layer to hold the core to the skin.

Everything went pretty good. Mike and Perry helped with the layup. If I had it to do again, I would have bolted it in two more spots.  I just didnt have extra bolts handy. Once the glass is on, you are at the point of no return. Mike sounded after it set, and said its solid.  I still have to putty it in. We intentionally saved this step for next time.



Bluewater 26 coosa




Cut to fit




Dry fit, Wedged in using stringers




Close-up of the wedge




Dry fit, Bolted in back thru drain holes, bigger clamps and wood braces were added later




Glassing the coosa core for adhesion, also wet out the inside of the skin




Glassed and clamped, done for the day, putty is next

[wingtime]

Looking good!  your doing a great job.  As for the fiberglass itch...  put baby powder on any exposed skin..  lots of it.  It blocks your pores so the glass cant get into your skin.  I've done it a bunch of times and it really helps..  Makes it easy to clean up too... just blow the dist off with an air gun.  Massage oil Scott? I'd think that would be a fiberglass magnet...  but then again it may help by keeping it off your skin.

[gran398]

Nice job!

Go with Bruce's suggestion regarding the powder.


I've never tried the skin oil for fiberglass work, just a suggestion. But it has it's place.

Best to all, and enjoy the holiday weekend

[gran398]

Mike also discussed the advantages between one 1.5 sheet and and two 3/4" sheets... For my needs, we settled on a single sheet. I also had a guy tell me his friend had a 1.5" Bluewater 26 core in his boat and has twin 250 etecs on it! I am only hanging one 115, or a single 140 at the most on mine.

We went ahead with what was available, the one sheet of 1 3/8" Bluewater 26 coosa.  We will have roughly a 2" transom with 1 3/8 of it being coosa 26, and the other 5/8" being glass, using a good mixture of woven, matte, and biaxial.

I got the old tank popped out of its glass and foam cradle today. I have it drained out and am taking it to the scrap yard. My new tank will be totally different, so I threw everything out. I got my work space cleaned up a bit too, ready to start glassing in the transom one day next week.

Good thinking on the Coosa. From my experience, with a quality layup as you've shown...it becomes a strong, lightweight brick.