85 evinrude 140 starter quit

[love2fish]

went to start up the boat this weekend, and the starter seems to be dying. I have full charge on both batteries, good connections everywhere, when i turn the key over, the drive pinion assembly will either rotate (strongly) but not lift (where it would engage to the engine ring); or if i manually lift it so it engages, barely turns and definatley will not turn over the engine to start. I think/assume it is the original starter and have no idea how many hours are on it. The symptoms have been getting progessively worse the past month or so... Am I on the right track thinking I need a new starter...

Did a google search and found some new starters on ebay and amazon for around $70. Does that sound about right?

Thanks!

[RickK]

That is the classic "weak battery" symptom.  Good charge doesn't mean the battery is any good.
No offense meant here but I assume you did the "All" setting on the batteries? Could both be bad?  I'd try a known good battery before I jumped on the starter.  Surely sounds like a weak battery - been there done that too many times.  I had a bad cell in one just a few weeks ago (11 months old) - same symptoms.
My $.02

[love2fish]

non-taken Rick! Thanks for the heads up. I have replaced one of my batteries, but I will get a load check on both of them tomorrow and go from there.

[dburr]

A hydrometer from your neighborhood auto parts or hard ware store will tell you the condition of your batteries. Cost should be somewhere between $5-10, after a normal charge cycle you should see 12+VDC and specific gravity should be in the green..

This is provided you are using standard lead acid batteries...

You can also use a meter to check the voltage drop when you go to crank the engine. With the stArter leads connected, put one meter lead on the hot side of the starter and one on a good ground and have someone crank the engine.  If the voltage is below 10 volts then that is a good indication that resistance is to high in the system. Check connections first, battery health, solenoid, starter....

It is really surprising what a big effect a little corrosion can have...

Good luck!

[love2fish]

Doing this by myself so I might be a little off still...
- I took both batteries to get a load test at Advanced Auto parts- both read completely full and didnt loose power when they did a load test.
- checked all my connections on both batteries and at the battery switch- all good/no corrosion.
-tried cranking the motor with the switch set on individually and then on Both... same thing each time.

 I got my volt meter out and attached it to the started and ground. I was about to crank it and get a 10.75 reading... is that too low? I tried videoing the starter, I'll see if i can post it on here.

[RickK]

Sounds like you have some corrosion in them cables.
When I first got my 170 24+ yrs ago, it had a Merc inline 6 and that beast took 2 batteries to start it when it was cold, the engine would just barely turn over and then get a little faster with each revolution - the black cables would start smoldering.  After the motor started and warmed up, it took one battery and just a second to fire back up.  Cold natured beast.

[love2fish]

gotcha. Thanks Rick!
-on to a battery cable search now.
I know seabob has mentioned genuine dealz and a few other websites...

Should I look for anything specific when ordering them? (material/ga)

Do i need to replace both the pos and neg wire?

Sorry for the questions--- just trying to avoid doing anything unnecessary or not getting everything i might need and missing another weekend on the water.

[RickK]

Gregs Marine Wire - great place and has everything. http://gregsmarinewiresupply.com/Zen/

[love2fish]

sweet- they are about $.50 cheaper than genuinedealz.

I'm looking at 4AWG tinned marine battery cables... right?

I guess this would explain why the trim seems to be a little weak lately also.  

Thanks!

[Blue Agave]

Chris where are your batts located?  If in the stern then 4GA should be fine, if they are in the console then you will need 2GA.

[love2fish]

Thanks! both are in the console.

[Blue Agave]

Chris if you plan on closing in the transom in the future you may want to buy the cables long so that you don't have to replace them.

[love2fish]

Good suggestion! Should an extra 2 feet or so be enough? I could just do a loop and secure it on the underside of the console shelf.
I currently have my battery and shift cables routed along the trough but when i do the transom/floor, i was going to run 2 rigging tubes straight back from the console to the transom so I'd gain some extra cable length there also.

[Blue Agave]

You will definitely gain some by running them straight back as opposed to thru the old trough.  Just remember better to be a foot too long than short at all.  If they are too short you will have to replace them.

[Blue Agave]

Also keep in mind what type of bracket you intend to mount and the bracket's setback.  My bracket has a 30" setback, porta-brackets have less setback.  There are different size porta-brackets that have different setbacks, I believe 19" and 21" but I'm not certain of that.