Checking gear case lubricant level

[foreverstrung]

So I had the boat out on the trailer last week to install trim tabs and general maintenance. The only issue I had was checking the gear case lubricant level. I couldn't get the vent screw loose to check the level. I was worried about stripping the screw head. Tried gently tapping the screw driver as I turned the screwdriver, but no go.
Suggestions? Should I just empty it all out and re-fill? If so, how do I determine the correct level/

[slvrlng]

You will have to get the top one out anyway as that is how you determine fill level. You fill from the bottom screw and stop when oil comes out the top hole. Get a hand pump to make it an easy job.

[foreverstrung]

I figured as much, but how the heck do I get that screw out. Just a big flat head and just lean into it?

[dburr]

BIG square shank and an adjustable wrench and lean on it like your life depends on it... Make sure the screw driver does not move in the slot and is as wide as the slot....

[dburr]

I took a short length of plastic tubing, like 3/16 size and put it on the fill nozzle of the oil jug then cramed it in the lower unit fill hole.  Then took a soccer ball needle that just happens to fit in my air chuck and jammed it in the neck of the jug and flipped it upside down,and shot a little air into the jug.. Fastest oil fill ever.  And the hole in the neck kept the oil from spilling all over the place when I put the jug down.  My short term memory is gone...

[slvrlng]

PB Blaster or liquid wrench. Let it sit for 24 hours. X2 on the right size screwdriver. Tap on the end of the screwdriver lightly! I used to sell an attachment for a air hammer that would fit a phillips or flat. I need to find that thing. It worked really well for stuff like this. Sold it guys restoring cars to loosen rusted screws.

[Blue Agave]

When you are filling it with the hand pump and the fluid starts to come out the top, walk away from it for ten minutes or so and let the fluid settle.  When you come back to it, pump a little more fluid into it to top it off.

[flounderpounder225]

This will usually do the trick for the stubborn ones, tilt the engine all the way up so your not working on the ground, get it seated well, pressure in the CCW direction, and one nice tap, she'll come out, don't forget a new fiber gasket for the two plugs before reinstall.
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-scr ... 37530.html

[wingtime]

Yup Marc is right...  no tool box should be without an impact driver.  Those things have saved my butt many times.  

I have a large screwdriver that has a hex drive area just below the handle.  I use that by really pushing hard on it while I turn it with a wrench.  Make sure the screwdriver head fits the slot of the screw.  Too small of a head and you are sure to bum up the plug.

[John Jones]

Marc's impact driver is the way to go but...
What's with this "light" hammer tap stuff?  Get a big azz screwdriver that fits the screw slot perfectly and whack the heck out of it one time with a big hammer.  That's usually all it takes.

Oh yeah, if you use an impact driver, make sure it's set to unscrew and not tighten it more.  Some only go one way but other brands are reversible.

[flounderpounder225]

Marc's impact driver is the way to go but...
What's with this "light" hammer tap stuff?  Get a big azz screwdriver that fits the screw slot perfectly and whack the heck out of it one time with a big hammer.  That's usually all it takes.

Oh yeah, if you use an impact driver, make sure it's set to unscrew and not tighten it more.  Some only go one way but other brands are reversible.

In my education through the school of Lessons Learned, and when dealing with marine stuff, I usually begin with the least power required to accomplish the task, then increase expotentially as the frustration level rises, usually ending in blood letting and destruction of the part, then Level II begins.  Working with my neighbor last night with his 4.3 I/O and the oil drain plug is completely rusted away, may have to pull the engine to replace the entire pan.

[wingtime]

So is the oil pan rusted out and leaking?  Or are you just trying to change the oil?  And if your changing the oil don't you usually just pump it out?

[GoneFission]

Everyone should have a hand impact driver in their toolbox:

http://www.finditparts.com/products/621 ... 4Aod1V7Weg  

http://www.wayfair.com/Lisle-1-2Impact- ... 4Aod2wMlcQ

http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_1260 ... 554343501P

[John Jones]

In my education through the school of Lessons Learned, and when dealing with marine stuff, I usually begin with the least power required to accomplish the task, then increase expotentially as the frustration level rises, usually ending in blood letting and destruction of the part, then Level II begins.  

  Well said.

[TheKid]

When you are filling it with the hand pump and the fluid starts to come out the top, walk away from it for ten minutes or so and let the fluid settle.  When you come back to it, pump a little more fluid into it to top it off.

Or just pump till the bubbles stop.

Lower units usually take less then a quart. So pumping from a quart should allow for overflow till bubbles stop.

A million ways to skin a cat!

For the vent...all great ideas. Best is having the perfect screw driver for the screw. Thick slot, large diameter handle for max torque and only as long as necessary to prevent any wobble.

Replacing the gasket every time also prevents this sticky stuff from happening in the first place.


I also have an impact driver. Great tool when needed. However I have found that it is difficult to use in this application. Unless the lower unit is supported from the other side most of the force goes into moving the entire motor.
 
Perhaps that's just me.