Recapping my transom

[Curious]

Got my transom poured last weekend and it came out great, (NidaCore pourable transom compound).  My brother is going to do the recapping and finish glass work.  He has done a few similar jobs but I want to make sure we are on the right track.  Can someone give me the quick and dirty on how to do this right?  Going to be using layers of 1708 and 1.5 ounce mat.  I don't think he's worked with the 1708 before so any tips would be greatly appreciated.  Check the 78 22 FF Transom Rebuild thread in the rebuild forum for pics of the pour.
Thanks, Dan

[dirtwheelsfl]

youre gonna wanna bevel (grind) out as much thickness as youre replacing with glass, then route a big radius on the corners to get the biax to wrap over.  easier to wet it out on a table off of the boat then put it on. work it down over the radius with gloves then hardroll from the top of the radius down each side.

not sure how hard that stuff is to route, probably gonna take a few progressively deeper passes.

[Curious]

Thanks for the reply.  Worked on that today, actually.  I had poured the motor cut out flush with the rest of the transom top edge so I wouldn't have to try to dam it up.  So I cut that out today with a jig saw after hole sawing the corners.  It cuts pretty easily, sands easily and I had a cheese grater style rasp that I used to work on the the corners with and that worked pretty well too.  I ended up with a solid chunk of it about 20" x 4" that I tried to break.  I tried everything- wouldn't budge.  I plan on taking it to the range in a couple of weeks to see if it is bulletproof, (I think it is).

I think we've got the prep figured out as far as getting the cap ready.  I'm mostly interested in how the 1708 works and how you guys recommend layering it up, how to stagger the mat/1708/mat, etc.
Thanks

[dirtwheelsfl]

Youve gotta put darts in the glass where it makes the upward turn and the outward turn. Basically slits in the glass perpendicular to the transom that go to the start of the radius. The bottom turn will have a square missing you can fill in and the top turn will have an overlap of "tag" ends which you can also cut to keep it one layer thick.

Id just do 2 layers of 1708 maybe a layer of mat on top to sand smooth. 8" wide oughta work. Overlap one 5" on one side then the next one lap it 3" over, it will be cleaner than 4 and 4.

Hope all that makes sense!

Dry fitting is key

[Curious]

Dry fitting for sure.  Planning on a layer or two of 1708 and a layer or two of mat in order to build it back up, with mat being the final for ease of finish.  I have to regain about 3/4" where the motor mounts just to get it back up to 20".  The rest of the sides don't really matter, just planning on getting a straight line to start from and cap it as you describe.  

I think I understand what you are saying about cutting at the radius- otherwise it will bind up as it tries to turn the corner, right?  Then when you go back to fill in the square can you just make a fitted patch or do you have to overlap?  You'll have to pardon my ignorance-  my brother knows all this but I'm just trying to make sure we are on the same page with what the correct method is and again he hasn't worked with the 1708.  Thanks again for all the tips.

[dirtwheelsfl]

The square will just be a flat piece missing where you put the dart. The radius will still have glass on it. Not a bad idea to overlap.

[Curious]

Got it, thanks.