2 Stroke runnin on 1

[Capt. Bob]

The floats themselves are probably fine but if they are set too high, they will let the bowls fill with excessive fuel which finds its way out through the air entry. Normal operations find air passing through the intake and squeezing down through the venturi. This forces the air to travel faster and thus the air pressure is reduced allowing the fuel to enter this air stream. The float level controls the amount of fuel in the bowl, which is at the same atmospheric pressure as the surrounding air. If at rest there is too much fuel in the bowl, it weeps out into the intake and collects there. Remember also that if the needle and seat are worn/damaged, fuel will overfill the bowl. That's why it is normally SOP to replace them during rebuild. Primitive by today's standards of fuel injection when performance and fuel economy are concerned but pretty cut and dry when performing maintenance. Float levels are set (for the most part) by bending of the support tangs (?). They can get out of adjustment during rebuild if ham handled.

I'm not familiar with Mercs so I can't help with the hose/tee situation.

[Unclebob]

Your Brass check valve is normal. You do not have a hose missing.

Carbs do look nice and clean. I'd replace airbox, clean plugs, and give her a go. I'd also try adjusting that bottom carb to where it was. Can you adjust your idle any?

[fitz73222]

What did you use to clean the carbs? Did you soak them for at least an hour in Chem Dip carb cleaner? The typical carburetor has multiple internal fueling passages that are part of the carburetor casting and must be soaked to remove blockage. If you used spray carb cleaner, game over, start over. It is normal to see a small amount of remnant puddling of fuel at the base of the venturi but not in excess. Try this; with the engine running at idle with the attenuator box removed; hold your over each of the carburetors and see if the engine speeds up. Don't completely seal off the venturi openings with your hand, just create a slight starvation of air and see if the engine speeds up. If so, it is still running lean and needs to be torn down again and soaked. You can reuse the gaskets without issue. Those carburetors would have to be extermely varnished to create this kind of power loss so what did they look like when you dissaembled them? The attenuator box does not have to be replaced and does nothing except to create a "pull atmosphere" to help atomize the fuel air mixure and create a slight "rich" atmospheric environment. Hence the do not run over 3000 rpm with box removed warning lablel or the engine will go lean.

[fitz73222]

Hold the PALM of your hand over each of the carbs. Sorry, company party today; must read post before submitting!

[foreverstrung]

Thanks fitz, I soaked 2 of the carbs 1 a gallon jug of carb cleaner, (Gunk), for 2 hours and one carb overnight in it. Breaking them down they were not varnished. They weren't too bad, IMHO. I've set the floats as the specs suggest and I've got all the idle mix screws at about 1.5 turns out from being seated. That being said, I had to leave before getting too far with her this morning, but she was turning over, but not catching. Checked 2 of the plugs and they were both oily. Not sure if my oil injection system is acting up or what. On a automobile, if I wanted to manually prime the carbs I would throw a touch of gas in the carb to see if it would catch, can I do that here as well? If so, which carb. I'll also check to see if the choke is working as it should, I don't think it is, when I hold in the key to choke, and then turn over the motor, I don't smell any gas.

[wingtime]

I soaked my carbs for 24 hours.  The "choke" is not really a choke.  It is an enrichener circuit that adds fuel.  Your manual should have a diagram.  There is a test where you hold an unlit prop an torch over each card to see if they are lean.   You may want to post your problem on the marine doctor forum.  He is a merc tech and will answer your questions.

[foreverstrung]

Thanks wingtime. I've joined that forum, but it'll be later today, at best, before I can access it. I do realize that the choke is a "primer", I did see that on my diagrams. I'm heading out this morning to putter a bit. How about the oily plugs. The Seloc service manual says that could be due to mis functioning oil injection system.

I may get a 2 stroke Merc mechanic to come out next week, but I really enjoy this work and feel it's important to know this motor from the inside as best as I can. Being cheap is not my only motivation here

[foreverstrung]

OK, I feel like an idiot.....again. Here's my discoveries today. I've spent most of this beautiful morning down on her. The carbs are great. Floats set to specs as well as mixture screws as I've stated already. I pulled each plug, they really were NOT too oily, cleaned, checked gaps and re-set. Turned her over and she would catch but not idle longest I think was about 30 seconds. Spent all morning trying to get some of this premium gas through her and when the batteries started to get weak and I decided to stop for the day. I'd pull the batteries to put a fresh charge on them and flush the motor a bit.

While flushing, I noticed way too much water coming from the motor itself. Well, not only was the 3" rubber hose that runs from under the cowl, that catches the "Cowl flush plug" and connects it to the nipple in the flushing system, was split and spilling in water, well, here's the idiot part, the jet that discharges the water from the flushing that sits next to the cowl flushing plug, was loose and sitting inside the motor. So every time this motor was flushed, since I've had it, (6 times or so), and who knows how much longer, the water was flushing back into the motor compartment. I'm sure this is the root of the problem.

[foreverstrung]

Well, this morning i went out to the boat and started her up and on 1st try, she idled 30 seconds and stalled. Fired her up again and as she was idling, I'd wait for what I suspected was a "lull", like she might stall and I hit the primer bulb and she kept runnin, and then again, the same thing and then she just idled nice and sweet. Didn't have a chance to take her out and open her up and considering the weather, it may be a couple days, but this was a good turn.

I've got a gasket kit to pick up for this fuel pump. I figured I'd go ahead and break her down, clean her up and re-apply. Does this sound like a good plan or should I just consider getting a new fuel pump?
Appreciate it

[wingtime]

The fuel pump is really simple with two diaphragms, some check valves, gaskets etc.  Get a rebuild kit and rebuild it.  shouldn't take you long at all.  So no don't buy a new one.  Rebuilding it should be part of the normal maintenance for that motor.  With all the ethanol that has been thru that thing I'm sure the diaphragms are hard as rock in that thing.

[foreverstrung]

OK then. Looks like this thread has come to an end. Rebuilt the fuel pump, Rebuilt the carbs, new plugs. Took her out this afternoon and she roared. Had her at near 40 mph and she wasn't even opened all the way up. Appreciate all the help

[Blue Agave]

Excellent job!  Now get out there and catch some fish.  

[wingtime]

Great news!  Good job!  Nothing like the satisfaction of doing it yourself!