2 Stroke runnin on 1

[wingtime]

I doubt you did any damage.  A lean cylinder can overheat leading to scoring or even burning a hole in a piston.   I doubt you ran it hard enough or long enough for that to happen.   And yes that kind of damage would show up as low compression in the damaged cylinder.

[Unclebob]

X2, chances are you're fine. For now. It's the people that ignore the warning signs, and keep trying to 'blow it out', that cause problems for themselves in the long run.

I like looking at shiny internal metal engine parts as much as the next guy. Just dont like doing it unexpectedly. On the water.

[foreverstrung]

Well I've found a shop here by me that has carb kits in stock. I'll clean 'em up, mount and then run 'em on premium and report back. Thanks for the comments and direction

[foreverstrung]

OK, I'm going to pick up three carb kits for these rebuilds tomorrow. On the video that wingtime posted here a few days ago,it appeared the carb kit this guy was using came with a seat screw and a needle. The kits available here, (I checked with 2 different shops), said that the kits only included gaskets. Does this sound right? Should I order these two parts separately, look for a different kt, or call it macaroni?

[wingtime]

There are gasket only kits and there are kits with a new needle, seat and float.  Get the full kit.  If your going thru all the labor you might as well replace them.  Be sure to get the merc kits not the after market kits.

[foreverstrung]

OK, couple of quick questions on these carburetor rebuilds.

1st, With my idle mixture screws, before removing, I turned the screws clockwise till they were seated, counting the turns so's to reset them properly on the re-assembly. Well they all pretty much were the same, +/- .25 turns, except one screw on the #1 carb, it took a full 2.5 turns to seat, twice as much as the other 5 averaged out too. Should I leave it at the 2.5 turns like I found it at, or bring it down to 1.25 turns like the others? It is obviously not factory set at this position

Also,  the carbs had a layer of silicone gasket sealer at the blower/cover. That is, all 3 carbs were gasket sealed to the blower. Is this necessary and if so, what type of silicone would ya'll recommend.
appreciate it

[wingtime]

Good job on the idle adjustment screws.  2.5 turns seems very high.  1.25-1.5 is the norm.  What does your manual say?  Keep an eye on the jets too I think the lower Carb may have one that is larger.

[foreverstrung]

OK, so I've got the carbs on and running premium fuel through a portable tank. She starts well enough and sounds strong, but won't idle. This is without the blower/cover on however. Also, and kinda puzzling, facing the carbs on the left up high there is a hose off the oil reservoir. It comes out of the "screw on" resiovior cap there and I am thinking it's a vent or overflow type tube, well as it snakes down the left side there, it has a brass tee, one end continues around the back of the motor and the other, though it has a flared end to accept another hose, I think is for venting. I have no extra hoses and see none loose. I'll have to take a photo of it and post it. My manual only shows black and white photos and I can't make it out. Hate for it to be some sore of vacuum not being used. and last, there's a bit of fuel mix dribbling out the lower carb after it stops. It still isn't running well, so it might just not be burning up all the fuel and then it's just gravity draining.

I'm goin back out later today to switch out the plugs. I'll post that photo later. I'll also put the blower/cover back on and with new plugs start here up and report

[Capt. Bob]

there's a bit of fuel mix dribbling out the lower carb after it stops. It still isn't running well, so it might just not be burning up all the fuel and then it's just gravity draining.

No expert (duh) but I'll guess.

Float level might be a bit high.

[wingtime]

Most likely the float level is too high or the needle is stuck.  You could have some bad reeds too.  Did you replace the needle and float?  If so did you set the float level?

[foreverstrung]

I replaced the needle and seat screw, I did not replace the float. following that youtube video, that guy didn't either and even commented on saving the float. The kits, carb kits, I checked into, with floats, went for $120 apiece. I paid about $45 apiece with the gasket kit and then the needle and seat screw. 2 differnt kits at about $20 and change each.

How can I adjust the float level? With the blower cover off, I'd expect the motor to still runn, though loud, right?

[foreverstrung]

OK, my bad. I followed the youtube video and not my manual when rebuilding these. The manual clearly states that the float is to be set at, "turning the float housing upside down, the float should stay exactly even/flush with the housing". I'm way paraphrasing here. But I've posted a couple pics, In one you can see all three carbs after I'd been turning her over for a bit. She starts some and then stall out, never steady and never like she should. Carb #2 and #3 both have a bit of fuel mix. Not much. It wasn't poring out, just a bit, 3 worse than two and 1 not at all. I pulled #2 and #3 this afternoon and checked the floats, the both are in great condition, no cracks, however they both needed to be slightly adjusted. Just slightly though. I reset the needle and blew out the seat screw with carb cleaner. Ran out of sunlight, so I didn't get the hoses and linkage on to start here up.

The other pic is the on that concerns me. It shows that brass 3way, (Tee). The hose going up from that tee goes right to the top of the oil reservoir vent, (I think its a vent), Going to read up more on it tonight. The bottom hose goes down into my hose and cable flex tubing harness, into the splash well, by my batteries, I have not followed it to it's end yet. I expect it's a vent from that reservoir, but it seems an odd way to vent in the engine compartment and I'd hate to be missing a vacuum line.

Appreciate the comments and advice

[GoneFission]

That is a very clean motor!

[wingtime]

I'd have to look at a Merc oil system plumbing diagram to refresh my memory.  But I can tell you there is a fitting on the lower starbord side of the block.  It is a check valve that takes crank case pressure and pressurizes your remote oil oil reservoir to force oil to your under hood oil tank.  There should be a diagram in your fsm.

[Blue Agave]

Tex, take a look at the remote oil tank located in the boat.  Notice that it has two hoses attached on one side of the oil tank, one black and one black with a blue stripe.  Both hoses will go back to the motor along with the other rigging.  The black hose will exit the rigging tube and will make its way to the starboard side of the front of the block and attach to the block. While the black hose with the blue stripe will exit the rigging tube and will make its way to the little oil tank located under the cowling of the motor.  The black hose will pressurize the remote oil tank located in the boat, which will push the oil from the remote oil tank through the black hose with the blue stripe and to the oil tank located under the cowling.  As the motor is running it will draw oil from the little oil tank located under the cowling, and this little tank is continuously filled from oil from the remote oil tank.  The cap on the little oil tank has a float on it, if the oil level in the little oil tank drops the float will drop and the alarm will go off.  The alarm means either the remote oil tank is empty or the system has lost pressure and further inspection should be performed.  It's a closed system, no vent.  If you do remove the cap from the little oil tank to make yourself familiar with the float, be careful putting the cap back on as those caps do break very easily.  Do not over tighten, just snug it down.

As far as the brass 3way tee goes, I'm not sure why its like that but both Mercurys I have owned were exactly the same as yours.