Drain plug re-install

[Circle Hooked]

Wow that is a butcher job    the MT will thin out once you ad hardner, make sure to mix real well, it will all be cured up in 2 days for sure, (I usually give the stuff a day) then sand or re drill as needed, you'll be good.

You can also use a tooth pick or a screw, anything that's smaller then the hole to jam the MT in the holes.

[fmaster360]

Will it expand at all as it's drying?

[dburr]

Marine tex cures hard enough to drill and tap so reusing the holes is not a big deal.  When you mix the epoxy it will soften up and run easier so don't worry about heating it to much.  If I remember correctly the MFG gives all their working times based on 70 degrees and what ever you do, do not go more then the recommended 5:1 mix.  It will not cook any faster, it will only make for a weaker bond..

The core material should be as dry as possible so if you can wait that is a good thing.

As with all sticky stuff, the stuff is like marshmallow fluff and will end up behind your ears so glove up and don't scratch anywhere you don't want the epoxy to get !

[fmaster360]

What an effing nightmare.

So I started with a hair dryer and a beer, and dried out the hole. It had already been sitting for about a week, so it was relatively dry to begin with. Then I did the Marine Tex stuff, and I didn't put enough on Tuesday, when I started. I figured no biggy, I'll let it dry tonight and then tomorrow I'll add a bit more and form it. That turned out to be a good plan. Yesterday I mixed up a bit more stuff, added it on and formed everything to a decent size, and a bit away from the transom. I didn't anticipate how horrible the sanding would be, but no biggy. Today I went out and sanded everything down, while obviously scratching up the transom area around it. I even added a little coat of Marine Tex into the hole, just in case water was getting into the Transom core at all.

Side note: I didn't realize my gloved hands had 'tex on them at one point, and I have a couple areas where I made some marks on the transom. If anyone has any ideas of how to get that to go away, I'd appreciate it. (it is obviously now dry.)

Back to today. I sand it down and it is all smooth and sexy. Besides for the unnecessary scratches in the transom obviously. I lube up a bunch of 5200, in the first 1/4" of the hole, then lube up a huge bead around the flange, and bed them together. Man it looked awesome. I used a small drill bit, and did pilot screws. This is where I made a huge **** up. I did not drill the holes big enough. This caused part of the core to push away from the transom. One of the screw heads even broke. I took the flange back off and I was appalled. The last two days of effort gone. The I realize that the holes really aren't big, and after I pulled the screw out I could push them back in. I mean, we're talking a hole of less than 1/8". I again added some more 5200, and pushed a bit into those three holes to seal. I rotated the drain flange again a little bit (this is pretty much the last option before going and drilling the Marine Tex), and I drill three more holes. These just a smidgen smaller than the core of the screws I was using. At first I didn't go deep enough, so after rectifying that, and wiping up the excess 5200 (wish Marine Tex was that easy to remove), I was done. I present to you the pictures. Besides for some extra Marine Tex around the areas that I didn't notice Tuesday, it was a pretty smooth job with a good looking finished product. Because of how much 5200 I used, I'm probably going to have to wait until the 24th to see if it's worked. Hopefully 5200 is as strong as everyone says. If so, that bitch isn't going anywhere. With that being said, pics! Let me know what you guys think, and if you think that it should last.

First is after Marine Tex dried.
Second is after sanding down, cleaning the dust, and lightly moistening for the 5200.
Third is finished product. You can see that there was a little Marine Tex sticking out from the bottom that wasn't covered by the flange. Hopefully it truly is waterproof. We'll see.

[RickK]

SUCCESS  
Looks great!

[wingtime]

As with all sticky stuff, the stuff is like marshmallow fluff and will end up behind your ears so glove up and don't scratch anywhere you don't want the epoxy to get !

OMG that is soo funny you said it is like fluff.  I was using it (marine tex not fluff I put that in fluffernutter sandwiches) to fix a damaged bolt hole on my swim ladder mount.  I dropped the washer... the "fluff" oozed down..  on my hands...  next thing you know its all over my hands, my wrench, ratchet, in the hair on my arms...  everywhere...  LOL  the good thing is gojo orange w/ pumice takes it off pretty good.


Looks good!

[Circle Hooked]

Great job, I think your good to go  

[gran398]

Absolutely....nice job

[pete]

Nice job!Try some 4-600 grit wet dry,sandpaper,use it with water to get of the marine tex,go slow as not to go thru the gel coat,then finish with some 800 and compound and wax

[gran398]

pete, great tip on the finish work.

[fmaster360]

Speaking of compound and wax, what's the best for cleaning the minor oxidation off the outer hull?

[pete]

there are lots of different compounds out there,use one that gets finer as it is worked.Also get a rotary buffer,its the only way to get that oxidation off,not that hard,go slow and use a spray bottle filled with water to keep the buffer from drying out,Harbour freight has one for like 40 bucks works fine...http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tool ... 92623.html

 

[dburr]

A sharp cabinet scraper will peel off the Marine Tex like it wasn't even there.. Then follow with a good buffing and you will not take off any more gel coat than an absolute minimum..

[fmaster360]

Sharp cabinet scraper, HD?
I have an orbital buffer, a PC 7424xp for the cars. Can I use that? Where do you get the compound and wax? I just compounded and waxed our Sequoia with Meguiar's Ultimate stuff. Didn't do too bad, but the pads seem to like being REAL wet when applying wax, otherwise you don't get a real thick coat.

Get marine wax and compound from WM or some place on line?

[wingtime]

I like the Four Seasons brand Trewax.  A buddy of mine that details boats for a living turned me onto it.  Collinite's fleet wax is good too.  For a compound used Aqua-buff 2000 with good results.  What ever you use stick with a baot or RV wax.  Any of the 3M or Maguires products are always good too.  If the finish is heavily oxidized wet sand it first starting with a 600 or 800 grit and then a 1200.  That will save a bunch of compound and effort buffing.   I have the Harbor Freight buffer with the digital speed control.  Works great.  Pick up a velcro on wool bonnet for it and your good to go.