switch panel question

[Capt Matt]

I went with hooking up the stereo on a switch partly because the xm radio is a portable unit and is powered by a 12/V plug which is also wired on the same switch as the stereo. With the xm hidden in a console hatch along with the 12V plug power source it simply powers up when I flip the switch.   At some point I'm going to have to add a amp too which probably will be on that same switch, I thought I would be good with 40 watts per channel but I need more along with two more speakers on the tower.  I like to jam out when throwing the castnet early morning  XM 1st wave love that 80's music too  lol

As far as the chart plotter I have always had a switch for my electronic's and I guess old habits just die hard, on my previous boats it was much easier to power the electronic's from the switch panel rather than run a wire all the way back to the batteries. I have never had  a boat wired as well as this one. On all my previous boats the switch panels had breakers not multiple fuse blocks.  

As usual your right Seabob, it simply does make more sense now I think about it.  Sweet, now I  have a extra switch to free up and will need to add some other cool 12V toy or light.  Any thoughts on must have 12V toys for a floating office that has everything ? No blenders though
Capt Matt

[seabob4]

Matt,
It's not that I'm right, I just try to use common sense when wiring a boat.  For instance, how many times does one see the batt in the back end, with 4 or 5 or 6 grounds stacked on the negative terminal, when all one has to do is take a stout lead, say 8 GA, off the batt to a ground buss, then terminate all the aft equipment grounds there...on a piece of equipment that was designed to accept multiple terminations!!!

I try to keep things simple, and there is a lot of equipment out there that helps in that regard.  But one piece of equipment, regardless of how good it works, I don't care for is either the Blue Seas ACR or the BEP VSR.  I think switching battery switches between different batts keeps one on their toes...JMHO...

[gran398]

Since everyone loves a nice day on the water...and you enjoy going the extra mile... how about a 12V pinini grill?

http://www.amazon.com/12V-PORTABLE-SAND ... B0018QPP82

[seabob4]

No Scott, no panini grills...besides, you actually want Vienna Sausages on a panini?

[wingtime]

No Scott, no panini grills...besides, you actually want Vienna Sausages on a panini?

EEWWWW!

[seabob4]

No Scott, no panini grills...besides, you actually want Vienna Sausages on a panini?

EEWWWW!

Forgot the Cheetos...

[Capt Matt]

A 12V Fry daddy would be the bomb. Only the good tipping clients would get the good fish sandwiches!!!
and "fish fries": french fries cooked after the fish is fried yummy. Shore lunches anyone.....

Keep it simple stupid!!  A Automatic charging relay Is there really any use for it on our small boats?

Seabob,
 I always have ran my boats with the battery switch on both, If I know I'm going to be anchored up for a hour or more running lots of power i will switch over to one battery or the other.
My Garmin on the dashboard screen shows my battery voltage and I never let it go below 12.1V before firing up the motor.  During tarpon season I often spend a few hours on the anchor in one place and having a dead battery would be the worst. Any tips?
Capt Matt

[Circle Hooked]

I don't have one of those ACR's, I do what Bob says and use the switch and alternate starting batteries each trip but good batteries are a must, I have 2 AGM dual purpose group 24's and when I overnight it I run the stereo dvd player fans you name it and never a problem, and can start up in the morning off the same battery, but I always make sure the other has a full charge just in case.

[pete]

Guys,I have a blue seas ACR and it works perfectly,leave my switch on batt 1 or off when not in use.Never a problem,I periodicly check voltage in both no prob.The ACR automaticly diverts current when batt 1 is charged and keeps batt 2 ready.They work.Charge with the promariner,here is my setup...

the ACR is right above the breaker box.

[seabob4]

Remember guys (Pete), my opinion on ACRs/VSRs is simply that...my opinion.  The way I run a boat.  Start the motor with the batt switch on batt 1 (engine start batt).  This gives you a good indication of the condition of the start batt, as opposed to starting with the batt switch on ALL, which can mask a weak start batt.  Once the engine is running, turn the switch to ALL, which will enable the motor output to charge both batts.  When you get to a spot, and are trolling over a reef or a drop off, leave the switch on ALL, the alternator output even at trolling speeds will overcome the amp draw of a FF, chartplotter, whatever.  Only when the motor gets shut down does the batt switch move to batt 2.  This places all the house loads on batt 2 while totally isolating the start batt from any draws.  Ready to fire back up?  Move the switch back to batt 1.  Once underway, switch over to all...

As Scott said, the key is good batteries, and taking care of them.  But one little "piece of mind" thing a lot of people don't consider.  Carry a spare batt on board.  Hooked up to nothing, just sitting there.  What are we talking, 45 lbs.?  Stow it belowdecks centerline, you'll never even know it's there.  Should a REAL failure arise with either the house or starting batt, a few quick turns of a wrench and you're back in business...

[RickK]

What about us that have stators? If you don't go fast you don't charge the batteries much.
The ACR on my 230 is a way for me to have both batteries being charged without having to have the switch in "both".  I have a different setup though.  I can have both batteries on and not have them in parallel. The ACR bridges the charging from the Starting battery when the voltage is right.

[Circle Hooked]

Wow Rick I never knew, and just when you think you know someone  

I'm gonna have to check that out next time we're out and about.

[seabob4]

Rick,
Is your Yam an OX66?  Should have around 12A output at idle, 35A at cruise...

[pete]

I agree with everyone,the key,no matter what method you choose is to maintain and monitor the condition of you batteries.

[RickK]

Rick,
Is your Yam an OX66?  Should have around 12A output at idle, 35A at cruise...

Nope - older than that.  (And still runs like a champ)

I asked the mechanic how much current the stator would put out and he couldn't tell me and couldn't find the spec anywhere.  Neither could I. Seems the faster you go the more it puts out.
After I camped for a few days my house battery was so low the chartplotter wouldn't even come on anymore - thought it was toast.  So off I went for a 2 hour low rpm putt around to charge the batteries - the chartplotter would come on for only about 3 seconds after that  :(  So I put the boat on plane and cruised back for 20 minutes - chartplotter came right up and was good after that.    That's when I added the volt meter to the power board.