Kinda made me cringe once when I was by there. I heard this loud clanging from the shop. Dude was making full power swings with a sledgehammer on a propeller but it was probably a 30" diameter prop. I assumed he knew what he was doing.
Quote from: "John Jones"Kinda made me cringe once when I was by there. I heard this loud clanging from the shop. Dude was making full power swings with a sledgehammer on a propeller but it was probably a 30" diameter prop. I assumed he knew what he was doing.Also known as a "precision adjustment device"...
Quote from: "TheKid"Or you can sell the prop to me and buy a new one! How is that prop working out for you?
Or you can sell the prop to me and buy a new one!
Quote from: "Skoot"Quote from: "TheKid"Or you can sell the prop to me and buy a new one! How is that prop working out for you?It's stowed under a forward bunk as a spare. I need a 13x15" to get me in the proper RPM. Not to mention the hole shot improvement.Let me know if you are interested. Not too many Tohatsus out there.
I used General Prop. twice on rebuilds. They were fair to me.
wing, I bought my prop from Admiral, gave me a super deal since they had this one in stock for awhile. I'll give them a call.Blue Agave I've already raised the motor, twice, and went from a 13.25x17" prop to a 13.25"x15. By raising the motor and switching props I went from 4200 @ WOT to currently 5000-5100rmps @ WOT.Im happy with the overall performance/hole shot etc. I just want to bring my WOT RPMs up a bit and if its possible/advisable to change the pitch from 15" to 14" in hopes to gain 1-200 RPMs im all for it.
Roger the cavitation plate should be about one half inch to one inch above the bottom of the boat. Next time you are out while the boat is up to speed have someone drive as you look, the water should be in contact with the bottom of the cavitation plate.
IMHO stainless is the only way to go. Aluminum props are not practically for shallow water application.