Issue with trailer lights

[GoneFission]

Remember you can't use a 4 pin hookup with surge-type disc brakes!  Discs require a check valve installed connected to the backup lights, so the brakes will not be activated when you are backing up.  Drums don't work in reverse, but discs will, and you can damage the system by backing up without having the check valve activated.  

You need a 5 pin flat plug if you have discs, not a 4 pin flat plug.  The color coding for the backup/surge valve wire is purple.  The 5th pin/purple wire is connected to the backup lights - I think that is the center pin on the round 7-pin connector.  Don't use a 6-pin plug/connector unless you have electric brakes.  

Nice trailer wiring diagram on this site:
http://www.etrailer.com/faq-wiring.aspx

[RickK]

Or you could go this route using the wiring option of your choice from above. Gets the lights out of the water and comes with the upper caps.
I just bought a pair and thought about using a 100 ft outdoor electrical cord cut to length and soldered/heat-shrunk in where it needed connections.  Day did this on his 250 EXP and it looks stout.  Don't know if he used a 3 or 4 wire cord though.  I have to search for a license plate holder that will allow vertical mounting though with light ( I know, I should be able to turn any of then vertical but I hate losing plates and I hate the plate scratching the side of my boat even worse.)
http://www.sturdybuiltonline.com/Pipe-L ... _p_13.html

[flounderpounder225]

Scott and Mark,

Thank you, my brothers.  I like both of your ideas:  that 00 Fancy wiring harness AND the Harbor Freigt LED lights.  

Here is what I am going to do.  For the learning experience, I am going to fix what I have right now.

Meanwhile, Mr. UPS will be bringing me the harness and I will go down to HF and get the LED lights.

After I re-wire the trailer I will be hunting in deep clover.


Comment: Scott, this truck is a 2006 4x4 with tow package, and has the 7 pin under the

 bumper, just like you said.  

Question: Mark, this harness, how many pins does it have... will my 4 pin adapter that I have still work, or do I need to get some

other type?

Thanks again guys for helping to get me a little more squared away.  Best wishes, T

T,
Regular 4 flat just like you probably have now, unless as mentioned you have the disc brake disable actuator, but they probably make that one also, the main thing again as mentioned is to get dedicated grounds to each light fixture.

[T Race]

Ooops,

I misspoke.  I have surge disk brakes and it is a 5 pin adapter.  Small matter, I'll find any adapter I need.

Rick, I have thought about that "dry" solution.  My guides are not tight enough right now; I think these sealed LEDs are right for me,

plus my bud has them and he has had no issues.  

thanks everybody    :sunny:      

[Circle Hooked]

T can't wait to hear how it all works out  

[John Jones]

Can't beat the pipe lights Rick mentioned if you have the side guides to install them on.  I have had a set since they came out.  I made all the splices up top inside the light housing and have a continuous run of wire all the way to the plug splices.  If you protect the wire from chafing they should last a lifetime.  If you have tall side guides just remember that Federal DOT regs specify a maximum height of trailer lights of 72".  Most cops will not know the difference but...

Side note.  Some folks recommend removable lights to avoid the corrosion issue but the DOT regulations also state that they must be permanently mounted.

DOT trailer lighting regs are here:
http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/standar ... rpstr.html

[Blue Agave]

IMO removable lights are too much trouble. I've seen them still attached to the boat after launch, I've see 25 ft. of pigtail being hauled down the road behind the trailer, and best of all I've seen them still in the tow vehicle after towing the trailer home. For me the best lights on the market are a submersible light made by a company called "Dry Launch".  Install them and forget about them.  

[RickK]

Can't beat the pipe lights Rick mentioned if you have the side guides to install them on.  I have had a set since they came out.  I made all the splices up top inside the light housing and have a continuous run of wire all the way to the plug splices.  If you protect the wire from chafing they should last a lifetime.  If you have tall side guides just remember that Federal DOT regs specify a maximum height of trailer lights of 72".  Most cops will not know the difference but...

I wondered if there was a max height - the sides of my 230 are that high while on the trailer

Side note.  Some folks recommend removable lights to avoid the corrosion issue but the DOT regulations also state that they must be permanently mounted.

Didn't know this - I've been using a removeable light rig/tiedown strap on the 170 for about 10 years with nary a problem with the lights.  Undo the strap at the ramp, wrap up wire and place all under my truck tonneau.  Had a guide laugh at it one day - still no problems, wonder how many he's had with his submersibles?

DOT trailer lighting regs are here:
http://www.nhtsa.gov/cars/rules/standar ... rpstr.html

Thanks JJ.

[John Jones]

[T Race]

T can't wait to hear how it all works out  

You bet, Scott.  I'm gonna spend " a " whole day on this and a couple other electo projects:

1) replace the aft fuse block

2) emplace new trailer lights and new harness

3) add Bob's spreader light (looks well-built mates !) and a couple of red LED light strips up in the hard-top illuminating the console


I just have to make time to schedule " a " whole day......

Thanks for the interest, I will shoot some photos while I work and post them on this thread in a couple weeks.