Reef or Maddness 3

[Keith Knecht]

Couldn't remember how to do pictures but I think I got it now.  To make a long story short, Capt Bob graciously agreed to sell his CCP to my son and I.  Thanks Capt Bob! It will be a lot quicker to get this boat back on the water than the green CCP that we were working on.  Not supposed to work on pretty first but we took the vinyl name off.  Sorry Capt Bob.  Next we drilled out and reinstalled the gas filler cap.


Next came the re installation of the tank.  The fill hose had been cut off to remove the tank and required a splint with a piece of t6061 - 1 1/2' pipe and a short piece of new hose.  That short piece of hose was a bear to get into place.  I only cut it shorter three times.  Glad I didn't have to cut it longer. Had to trim a little back on the tub to get a screwdriver on the clamps. Will probably be lazy and leave that like it is.


Deck plate had a few extra holes that needed to be closed


Glassed in the plywood plug on the outside edge and plugged the center hole and that's as far as we've gotten.


More to come. Thanks again Capt. Bob!

[seabob4]

Kieth,
Looks like it will be fun, and keep a tried and true AS in the family!

Couple nitpicks.  Use #24 hose clamps on the fill hose.  And see that shut-off valve on the feed?  The plastic handles strip over time.  Get an all brass one.

That's it, carry on!  Oh, and that looks like a 205 Osprey behind her.

[Keith Knecht]

Thanks Seabob,

The hose clamps that are the wrong size were some I just had laying around.  Not neat but free and we're on a shoe string budget.  I suspect that even though it's not pretty they are functional and I'll make sure nothing gets snagged on them when I put the lid back on.  As for the shutoff valve, it will probably stay plastic.  I've owned at least 20 AS and in over 50 years of boating I've never had an occasion that I would have used one.  As a matter of fact, this is the first fuel tank that I've ever had that had one on it.  Good advice though.  If I thought it would get much use, I'd replace it.

[seabob4]

Kieth, bet you never rotate the handle!  And I know about those "free" hose clamps!  They may be too big, but they get the job done...

[Capt. Bob]

Keith, the multi drilled hole in the center was there when I bought the ol' gal. Former PO had some old wires coming up through it but claimed they were there when he bought it. I placed a piece of scrap plastic over it (you can see the faint outline).

The other "notch"  on the edge was where all the rigging and wiring came into the console. Before you decided to by the whole works I had pulled everything out from there. How are you handling that now?

[Keith Knecht]

Hey Capt Bob,

Thought that notch on the outside was for the filler hose modification.  Was the wiring laying on top of the tank?  I'm using the factory wire chase. You can just barely see the hole above the filler hose and slightly forward. It's completely outside of the tank tub.  I'm really surprised that all of the rigging wires were going up over and in the same compartment as the tank. I have cut the deck out as far foward as I can 'till it was right up to the chase for the filler tube.  I'll post some pictures in the next couple of days. I'll have a small place to patch behind the console in the deck where I extended the factory rigging slot.  It will allow me to move the console about 10" forward and give me room for my mamoth Birdsal leaningpost tackle storage center.

[Capt. Bob]

You're correct.
The rigging hole was in the deck not the coffin top. That really wouldn't make any sense.

How quickly I forget. :(

Damn, I'm getting old.

Good luck.

[Keith Knecht]

Pulled the lower unit and replaced the impeller in the water pump. Bob, the old one would have probably worked a little longer but not worth the chance.  The housing was immaculate but the shift shaft was frozen up.  A little emory cloth and some lubrication took care of that.  Pulled the brass plugs for the float chambers and only a tinny tiny amount of oil came out.  Shot the bowls full of engine tuner and let them drain and then filled them again and quick put the plugs back in.  Going to try to crank her without pulling the carbs.  Everything just looks too good and I have a Johnson mechanic friend that says he's used this trick before and been quite sucessful.  We shall see.

[Capt. Bob]

Pulled the lower unit and replaced the impeller in the water pump. Bob, the old one would have probably worked a little longer but not worth the chance.  The housing was immaculate

Keith,
That's encouraging to hear since it sat so long. I know I'll be blasted but as you were made aware, that was the original factory impeller. Prior to owning the 96, I replaced impellers every time I busted over a sandbar. Impellers had such a short lifespan. While I had replaced the T-stats, the motor never overheated and the water pressure was as good as the day I hung the motor. A fluke for sure but non the less. :o

I replaced the Yamaha impeller about a year (?) ago. Seemed like old times.

Good luck.

[Keith Knecht]

Ok I think I remembered how to do pictures .  Here's a little something that may help someone or not.  I like it.  

I don't like splitting a rigging tube to pull out the fuel line for a squeeze bulb and the aftermarket fittings looks pretty cobbled up to me also.  I like to rig the squeeze bulb in a manner outside the rigging tube.  You can buy double barb bulkhead fittings to do this but the area I selected was too thick for the threads and nut on the bulkhead fitting.  Besides the bulkhead fittings will cost you nearly $50 bucks.  I used a Husky SKU 831157 - 5 piece 3/8" hose repair kit from Home Depot.  It has two fittings and three hose clamps. They are less than $5.00 each.



Insert the appropriate hose on the hosebarb splice and tighten the clamp down even with the end of the hose so that it will be up against the binside of the bulkhead.




Drill a hole through the bulkhead in the appropriate place (make sure you can get your hose there from the inside and that it wont interfer with anything.  The hole should only be as large as the barb abd smaller than the hose.  Now insert the hose barb with hose attached from the inside of the bulkhead to the outside.
 
More to come.

[Keith Knecht]

Now slide a clamp over the hose on the squeeze bulb and shove the fuel line from the squeeze bulb onto the fitting and tight against the bulkhead.  Don't aske me about hose lenghts.  i just hold it up and make sure it doesn't kink.   Then drop a plumb line an mark for your bottom hole. Ok, so it's a crummy picture.  The next one is better.





Well, you get the idea. here's what it looks like when it's finished.

The ugly holes were filled after the picture was taken.
Hope you get the general idea.  Most important to have all of the in and out hoses from the filter correct and the squeeze bulb arrow up.  Hope I did

Whatjathink?

[Keith Knecht]

Got some cockpit bolsters made to match the leaning post that isn't installed yet

[Keith Knecht]

Ok so it won't be water tight at first. But I will put a seal under it and a latch and that will make it water resistant. I am going to paint it too. At least it's fiberglass and flush. The "receiver" is actually a 5/8" piece of plywood fiberglassed on both sides and screwed and glued to the underside of the deck.
 
You can just see the fighting gimbal on the front of the coffin. That setup makes a great "fighting chair" when I have a big shark on. Especially with the cushins, thank you Bob!

[dburr]

That squeeze bulb setup is a GREAT idea!   !

[Keith Knecht]

Thanks dburr, what's even better is that it works!