87 Osprey 22.2 rebuild

[305kingfisher1954]

Just picked up an 1987 222 Osprey..I think it's an Osprey anyway. The reason why I'm not 100% sure is the specs on the 87 Osprey say it has a 12 degree deadrise. Would that be the angle at the transom ? If so, it has exactly 2 1/2 inches angle rise, pitch in 12 inches and I'm coming up with 18 degree deadrise if that is how you determine the deadrise. I know there are many experts on this site that will  know.

The hull seem to be in pretty good shape. The deck, transom and cap will has wet, rotten wood and I plan on replacing. I'm not sure about the stringers until I get the deck off obviously. I have not done much fiberglass work,  I am a carpenter by trade, but  just need some guidance as to what materials to use. I want to replace everything with 'wood free" materials. I am going with a "cut out" type transom as opposed to the"porta bracket" with built in storage/access on each side of the transom cut out. Appriciate help with materials to use..

Let me see if I can follow the Rigging Masters instructions on how to post photos on this site..

[Keith Knecht]

Definitely an Osprey.  The ccp has a different cap and the deck is all one level.  In the picture, where your deck changes levels,there looks like some patch work ( black ) at the joint area.  That may be something minor or could be something more serious. You should find out when you remove the deck.  Don't see too many that were set up with twins.  Good luck with the rebuild.  It's a great boat even if they were cutting some cornors in 87.

[Capt. Bob]

Definitely an Osprey.  

Yes indeed. (Happy New Year Keith )

http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... 574/page/1

As far as the math goes.

.21 /1 = tan of dead rise angle (your measurements)
tan of 12 degrees = .213
Close enough for government work.

Good luck and post your rebuild pics.

[305kingfisher1954]

Thanks for that information and the Aquasport link for that model..very nice.

Hope to get started soon, cutting the floor out, seeing what I have and then start on the transom..

I was thinking about pouring the transom with Arjay 6011...I saw where Kedd used this on his rebuild. Anyone have any experience with this product ..He said he used 27 1/2 gallons on his transom. The manufacturers specs say it weighs about 7.1 lbs per gallons, so the new transom would weigh about 200lbs...Just want to watch the weight, I'm probably going to power her with a Yamaha 200hp Four Stroke @ 583lbs. Thanks for the help guys.

[gran398]

There has been much discussion, poured transoms vs. a tear-down. Much of it has to do with the condition of the balance of the hull.

Poured transom positives: Quick, easy, stable. Cut the top off with a Skilsaw...dig out the mung with a chainsaw...dig out what is left at the base, let dry.....thoroughly..then pour.

Minuses: Weight. And always the question...did we get a good bond at the very bottom, where it was really wet?

Coosa transom:

Leave on the original outer transom glass skin always...unless impossible. Keeps the original shape/dimensions intact. Build to it with the Coosa board...most rebuilders have used  two 3/4 inch sheets.

Not recommending one method vs. the other. Let your individual situation be the guide. If its a complete strip...starting with a fiberglass hull skin...go with the Coosa.

[seabob4]

You probably should consider cost as well.  All our transoms at Proline were Coosa Bluewater 26, and at around $360 for a 4 X 8 3/4" sheet, a bit more cost effective than poured, and, since you are going to retain the current design, 1 sheet may do you...

What Kieth pointed out, appears the knees cracked in the radii, in theory one would want to back-glass those cracks before repairing the topsides properly, but to get in there to back-glass...??

[Capt. Bob]

Here's a little more on the dead rise topic.

viewtopic.php?p=19049#p19049

The Resource forum, though small in quantity is large in quality and as always.....

Is your friend.

[305kingfisher1954]

Good advice on the transom, Thanks..On the poured transom, I was going to close the transom up as much as possible to accomodate a single outbord, the cut out is very wide..it had twin OB's on it. I was thinking I would leave the outside skin and cut out the inside skin and form it. I'll have access to the outside skin to clean it up for a good bond. If I use the Coosa, do I have to vacuum this procedure? Do you just apply resin between the Coosa when laminating and bonding to the outer skin ?  Any idea how much 1 - 3/4 x  4 x 8 sheet of Coosa weighs ?

[seabob4]

Good advice on the transom, Thanks..On the poured transom, I was going to close the transom up as much as possible to accomodate a single outbord, the cut out is very wide..it had twin OB's on it. I was thinking I would leave the outside skin and cut out the inside skin and form it. I'll have access to the outside skin to clean it up for a good bond. If I use the Coosa, do I have to vacuum this procedure? Do you just apply resin between the Coosa when laminating and bonding to the outer skin ?  Any idea how much 1 - 3/4 x  4 x 8 sheet of Coosa weighs ?

52 pounds.  We used to vacuum-bag at PL, but it's not necessary.  Glass the 2 panels together, then, if you have the equipment, chop the 2 bonding sides, if not, I'd use a layer of 2415 on both sides.

[305kingfisher1954]

Thanks RM..I think since I'm changing the configuration of the transom the Coosa is the way to go..and less weight too..Chopping ? Does that mean roughing up the 2 sufaces to be bonded for a better bond?

I better start working on a material list.,.what would you use on the deck, besides marine plywood..coosa as well?

The casting deck is soft, so I will be cutting that out removing all the wood ..What material should I use to replace the wood ?

I'm in the Florida keys, would you know the best supplier to order materials from ?

Thanks again !!

[seabob4]

"Chopping" means spraying both sides with a mixture of chopped glass (random strands of glass) and resin.  Need a chopper gun to do this (reason I asked about equipment).  You could also take chop and mix it with resin in a cup, then brush it on...

CompositesOne is who I'd contact for materials, I believe they have a distribution center in Miami...

[305kingfisher1954]

Thanks again RM..Just one more request..then I'll be good for a while..What materials would you use for the deck, coosa. nida core or divincell..as you and Keith pointed pout earlier the knees are cracked in the casting deck, I plan to cut the entire deck out and turn over and repair and gain access to the backside like that..what would you use to repair the underside of the casting deck after I remove all the wood?

[seabob4]

305king,
I'll let the building experts tell you that.  You want the boat fully rigged, motor to upper station and anything electrical you can think of?  I'll do that for you...  

[305kingfisher1954]

understood...ty

[Capt Matt]

Nothing but coosa
Capt Matt