New gel coat/wax

[HIFLUTIN]

Gettin close to spray gel coat.
Any recomends on what type of wax to use after final coat?

[slippery73]

You will want to get a styrene wax additive if your going this route.  Buy non waxed gelcoat, use the additive on the last coat, mix additive 5% to last coat of gel.  Its easier to have problems with this method if you have never done it before.

I'd recommend using duratec 904-001, it makes the gelcoat air cure with no other additives.  It also thins the gelcoat for easier spraying.  With a decent hvlp gun and a 2.2 tip you will get very little orange peel and will save yourself a ton of time on wet sanding and buffing after the fact.

Keep in mind with the duratec, you are reducing your solids in the gelcoat so you will need to spray double the coats as the regular gelcoat to get the correct mils, buy a mil gauge and learn how to use it. Also, the duratec is nasty..... you will want a full face respirator, or enclosed goggles at the least. It burns the hell out of your eyes.

Duratec is pricey, but if you want a good finish it saves a lot of labor. Definitely worth it in my opinion.

[slvrlng]

That is some great advice!!!

Make sure the gel is cured before you wax it.

[RickK]

I'd recommend using duratec 904-001, it makes the gelcoat air cure with no other additives.

 
I tried to find it online but couldn't AND since I've never shot gelcoat before - does this mean you don't add hardener on the last coat?

It also thins the gelcoat for easier spraying.  With a decent hvlp gun and a 2.2 tip you will get very little orange peel and will save yourself a ton of time on wet sanding and buffing after the fact.

Keep in mind with the duratec, you are reducing your solids in the gelcoat so you will need to spray double the coats as the regular gelcoat to get the correct mils, buy a mil gauge and learn how to use it. Also, the duratec is nasty..... you will want a full face respirator, or enclosed goggles at the least. It burns the hell out of your eyes.

Duratec is pricey, but if you want a good finish it saves a lot of labor. Definitely worth it in my opinion.

Great knowledge here - thanks.  I want to re-gel the bottom of the 170 when I tear into her (maybe the inside too) and this kinda stuff I need to know.

[slippery73]

I'd recommend using duratec 904-001, it makes the gelcoat air cure with no other additives.

 
I tried to find it online but couldn't AND since I've never shot gelcoat before - does this mean you don't add hardener on the last coat?

It also thins the gelcoat for easier spraying.  With a decent hvlp gun and a 2.2 tip you will get very little orange peel and will save yourself a ton of time on wet sanding and buffing after the fact.

Keep in mind with the duratec, you are reducing your solids in the gelcoat so you will need to spray double the coats as the regular gelcoat to get the correct mils, buy a mil gauge and learn how to use it. Also, the duratec is nasty..... you will want a full face respirator, or enclosed goggles at the least. It burns the hell out of your eyes.

Duratec is pricey, but if you want a good finish it saves a lot of labor. Definitely worth it in my opinion.

Great knowledge here - thanks.  I want to re-gel the bottom of the 170 when I tear into her (maybe the inside too) and this kinda stuff I need to know.

Here is the data sheet on the duratec:  http://www.duratec1.com/dp07.html


This additive makes the gelcoat cure just like a polyester paint would. No other wax, pva, etc. is required.   You mix the gelcoat and duratec 1:1 then catalyze with 2% MEKP.  This will kick off quick, my gun will hold 32oz. and thats about all you want to mix unless its below 70º. I'd start with less if your not using a large tip, 2.2+.  Smaller tip will take longer to spray and will kick in the gun if your not fast.  I usually work with another person that helps mix and clean containers while I spray, then when my gun is empty they add catalyst and stir while I clean gun for the next batch.  You will want as little overlap time as possible between change outs so you can keep a wet edge and keep a continual wet spray.

I sprayed for about 2 hours straight when I did the bottom and about the same for the hull sides.  Thats non stop, cup after cup, until I achieved my desired mil thickness.

If your gonna go ahead with it let me know and I'll give the full detailed instructions on the duratec application. There are a few tricks that will save you some time and headaches.