Is everyone able to fit all cables into the rigging tube?

[seabob4]

Scott,
I need to see a pic of where the rigging enters the lower pan of the motor.  Most of the smaller motors are simply set up to accept the basic rigging, covered by either mesh sleeving or spiral wrap.  Only when you get to the 150s and up do you see the lower pan designed to accept the rigging grommets and rigging hoses...

[gran398]

Excellent. Next time I'm out there I'll take one and shoot it to you

Thanks

[Capt Matt]

Don't forget to leave space for your secret  speedo in that port box
Capt Matt

[BTF112989]

Hey everybody!
I went out again today to try the boat out, get out of the house, and show my dad how the new boat performs.  It was 38 degrees outside, so it got chilly pretty quick trying to do a high speed run with no windshield.  I got it up to 43 mph today, which I'm pretty happy with.  

Also, when I got home, I found out my battery cables had arrived from greg's marine wire & Capt. Bob's perko battery switch had arrived as well!  Thanks for the quick shipment on that one!  I'm tempted to go try to install the wires tomorrow, but I don't think that will go over too well on Christmas eve. :(

One question though.  I know you have to buy batteries for a dual battery system that are the same age.  I just bought a new battery for the boat in July & it probably hasn't been used more than 15 times out on the water.  Since my battery is fairly new, can I get away with purchasing another battery just like it now(5 months after the first batteries purchase) to use for the house battery?

Thanks everybody!
-Ben

[seabob4]

Ben,
In my opinion, yes.  It's done all the time.  But if you research this subject (batts of different ages) on THT, you will find most will say no...and they have a lot of bucks to swap out Optimas...

Keep this strategy in mind.  Running the motor, you have alternator output.  Put your batt switch on "BOTH", both batts are receiving nice healthy juice.  Shut down, turn the switch to "2", your house batt, and no loads are being drawn off "1", your start batt.  All is good...

The only time a "bad" batt can draw down a "good" batt is when you have the 12V "circle"...positive from the batt to a device, device back to the negative.  If the 2 batts are separated via the batt switch (half the circle is no longer present), how can a connection be made in such a way that one batt can draw down another batt?  Through the common ground? I don't think so.  

I'd like to be proven otherwise.  Isolate the batts in non-charging applications, you'll be fine...

[gran398]

Merry Christmas Ben :rendeer:

Absolutely you can mix batteries, as Bob has stated. The batt switch will get 'er done.  THT "Proper" isn't proper round these parts

And as you've said...forget a boat this weekend. With the performance you've observed...you're right there.

Great job, good work...and enjoy a Merry Christmas :rendeer:

[BTF112989]

Thats what I was thinking.  As long as the batteries are separated when the engine is off & they are being drained, then one battery shouldn't drag the other one down.  The only time I will have it on "both" is when running the engine or just stopping for short times somewhere.  Any other time I will switch it over to "2".  

Seabob's instruction to "isolate the batts in non-charging applications, you'll be fine" is a good rule to remember.  

The basis of that question was because of some previous research on THT.  My battery is new enough & not everybody out there can buy 4 optimas to put in their 42' yellowfin with trips on it like some of those guys on THT.  I'm working with duralast batteries here. haha.

I will buy the same exact battery, so my CCA & everything matches up to the other battery.  

Can anyone think of a way I could mount the battery switch to the inside wall of my center console without putting bolt holes through it?  I was thinking put some 5200 or similar adhesive on the back of a piece of starboard, stick the starboard to the inside wall, then screw the battery switch into the starboard.  Would that work?

I'm extremely happy with the performance of the boat now!

I really appreciate everyone's advice on this forum!  Yall have real, humble advice without going to extreme expense with anything, but you guys still believe in doing it the right way without cheap, jackleg shortcuts!  Its a nice change from THT!

I'm signing off on here now!  Thanks for the Merry Christmas!  I hope you all have a Merry Christmas & spend some quality time with your families! :santa:  :rendeer:  :rendeer:  :rendeer:  :rendeer:

-Ben

[RickK]

Can anyone think of a way I could mount the battery switch to the inside wall of my center console without putting bolt holes through it?  I was thinking put some 5200 or similar adhesive on the back of a piece of starboard, stick the starboard to the inside wall, then screw the battery switch into the starboard.  Would that work?

You're on the right track but not with 5200 and starboard - it won't stick.  Starboard requires a special glue ($$$). I just needed to do the same thing for the circuit breaker for my windlass.  I took 3/4" plywood, sealed it with a sealer and stuck it to the side of the hull with 5200 and let it dry for a day.  Then I predrilled holes in another sealed piece the same size and mounted that to the other and mounted the breaker to the 2nd peice.

[GoneFission]

Excellent. Next time I'm out there I'll take one and shoot it to you

Thanks

Uh-huh; Scott's gonna post some pics?      Must be really cold in Hades today!   :smurf:

[gran398]

Excellent. Next time I'm out there I'll take one and shoot it to you

Thanks

Uh-huh; Scott's gonna post some pics?      Must be really cold in Hades today!   :smurf:

 

Always remember: "It ain't a lie if you believe it."

     

[GoneFission]

Scott - don't forget you will need a run of twin #6 wires from the batteries/switches up to the bow for a trolling motor outlet on a 50-60 amp breaker.  Even if you don't install a trolling motor now, it will be a lot easier to run the wires and install an outlet in the bow now compared to after the deck is in place.     Wire the outlet/breaker for 24 volts - don't mess with a 12 volt hookup - a 12 volt motor would not be enough for a 22 footer.  

Also, you may want to consider some extra "pad" or reinforcement under the cap in an area for a future trolling motor mount.  Again, it's easier to do it now compared to later...     Think about an area where you could mount a quick-release bracket, so you don't have to have the motor on the boat all the time:  
http://mk.factoryoutletstore.com/detail ... 54017.html

[gran398]

Much appreciated my friend, all good points. This is the time to do it, the casting deck and deck cap are still loose.

The deck cap has been recored with nidacore. It will be easy to add more coring as reinforcement. If I remember correctly, your trolling motor mount was on the port side at the bow?

Thanks!

[GoneFission]

Here's a pic, but my CCP has a different cap than your 22-2:

[gran398]

Yep, that's exactly how I remember it.


Good deal. Will glass in some permalloy coring under there.

Thanks bro!

[BTF112989]

Hey everybody!
I have hooked up my dual battery setup, hooked up the switch, etc, etc.  However, I can't seem to figure out one wiring issue.

Let me start off by describing how everything is wired up on my dual battery setup.  I have the positive line from my motor hooked up to the "common" post on the battery switch.  I then have the positive line from battery 1(motor starting battery) going to the #1 post on the battery switch.  I have the positive line from battery 2(house battery) going to the #2 post on the battery switch.  That covers all of my positives.

I have the negative line from my motor hooked up to the negative terminal on battery 1(motor starting battery).  I also have a negative line going from the negative terminal of battery 1(motor starting battery) to the negative terminal of battery 2(house battery).  This is how the dual batteries are hooked up.  The battery switch setup seems to work as it should with my engine, but not with my main switch panel wire.

I have all my accessories(radio, bilge, court lights, nav lights, etc) hooked into the main switch panel of the boat.  I then have a positive & negative wire that runs from the battery to the switch panel.  I want this main switch panel wire(positive & negative) on my house battery.  I first just hooked up the positive wire to the positive terminal on the house battery & the negative wire to the negative terminal on the house battery thinking power would be cut off to the switch panel when I switch the battery switch to "OFF".  This did not work.  My next idea was to keep the negative main switch panel wire on the negative terminal of the house battery, and then put the positive switch panel wire on the #2 post of the battery switch.  This did not work either.

What am I doing wrong?  Is there any way to hook up/setup my switch panel wiring that will cause all power to be cut off from it when the battery switch is in the "OFF" position?

Currently, I can turn on my radio & other accessories still when the battery switch is in the "OFF" position.

Also, are my dual batteries wired up correctly?

Thanks for reading this book of a question!
-Ben