Is everyone able to fit all cables into the rigging tube?

[gran398]

You don't want to see the backside of the Perko dual batt switch I just replaced with a Blue Seas... :x  :x

Was there a wasp nest

[seabob4]

You don't want to see the backside of the Perko dual batt switch I just replaced with a Blue Seas... :x  :x

Was there a wasp nest

Yes, 1, but they don't bother me.  It was the green terminals and the corrosion on the inside that bothered me...

I've had 2 batt switches fail on me in my life...Perkos...

[Capt. Bob]

Well you know what they say......
You get what you pay for in life.

Model #8501
http://www.perko.com/catalog/category/b ... oduct/148/

Place in dry (relatively speaking) setting, assemble and coat terminals with corrosion reducing substance. Inspect when the mood moves ya. End of the day, it's more proper installation and routine maintenance that will keep it clean. Along the same lines as one's terminals on the battery but.....

[seabob4]

Well you know what they say......
You get what you pay for in life.

Model #8501
http://www.perko.com/catalog/category/b ... oduct/148/

Place in dry (relatively speaking) setting, assemble and coat terminals with corrosion reducing substance. Inspect when the mood moves ya. End of the day, it's more proper installation and routine maintenance that will keep it clean. Along the same lines as one's terminals on the battery but.....

In my business, I see a lot of battery switches that are t/bolted, due to the location that they are installed in.  Coring would be nice, as then the switches could be screwed in place.  Accessing the back side (the studs) would be relatively easy.  But ask any owner of a t/bolted batt switch how often he unbolts it to drop it down and inspect the studs...never!  And for that matter, when has anybody here dropped their batt switch to inspect the studs on the backside?  As far as internal contacts, at least with Blue Seas, you can take the switches apart.  Perko?  You have to destroy them to get to the internals...

[Capt. Bob]

As far as internal contacts, at least with Blue Seas, you can take the switches apart.  Perko?  You have to destroy them to get to the internals...

That's an excellent point.

The C-H has that option and I've cleaned mine twice (since 96). Again, get what you pay for.
The second time I opened the C-H was when I moved it from the CCP to the WAC. I was pleasantly surprised that it was as clean as it was internally. Out of sight, out of mind but you've seen enough battery connections to know that even when in sight, they often still remain out of mind. 8)

Until the motor no start no more.

[BTF112989]

Well everybody,
I was able to pull the oil line through my rigging tube(took about 1.5 hours to get my snake all the way down the rigging tube with an unobstructed path) today, as well as install the ignition, readjust my throttle & shift cables for this boat, finish hooking up the fuel lines, and hook up the wires for the tachometer.  All I lack now is getting the battery cables ordered & installed.  The real challenge will be fitting that last, big set of battery cables in the rigging tube.

Seabob,
I will go with greg's marine wire for the 2 ga, uninterrupted, custom made cables.  I see on that picture, that you have one yellow & one black cable.  Any reason for the yellow instead of the standard red?  Do you happen to know the lug post size needed for the engine side of a Yamaha HPDI(like the ones in your picture)?  Or the lug size for a standard battery lug post?  The OEM Yamaha battery cables fit my battery lug post fine.

Capt. Bob,
Thank you for the offer on the battery switch!  I will gladly take yours as a beginner battery switch setup.  It should last me quite some time in Tennessee.  If it does happen to poop out on me in a few years, then I can upgrade to a Blue Seas switch.

for my battery to battery connections, what wire would yall suggest?  I don't think I need 2 ga for batteries that are sitting side by side.

Where is an ideal mounting spot inside the center console for a battery switch?  I don't want to put four screw holes in my console to mount the switch to the side.  

I am going to hook up the muffs tomorrow, and crank the boat up in the driveway to check all of the systems.  Its better for things to go wrong on the trailer in your own driveway, then for them to go wrong on your maiden voyage in the lake.  I'm also going to give the old girl a bath, then to the county clerk's office to get her registered with the state!

Thanks for all of yall's help!
-Ben

[flounderpounder225]

Well everybody,
I was able to pull the oil line through my rigging tube(took about 1.5 hours to get my snake all the way down the rigging tube with an unobstructed path) today, as well as install the ignition, readjust my throttle & shift cables for this boat, finish hooking up the fuel lines, and hook up the wires for the tachometer.  All I lack now is getting the battery cables ordered & installed.  The real challenge will be fitting that last, big set of battery cables in the rigging tube.

Seabob,
I will go with greg's marine wire for the 2 ga, uninterrupted, custom made cables.  I see on that picture, that you have one yellow & one black cable.  Any reason for the yellow instead of the standard red?  Do you happen to know the lug post size needed for the engine side of a Yamaha HPDI(like the ones in your picture)?  Or the lug size for a standard battery lug post?  The OEM Yamaha battery cables fit my battery lug post fine.

Capt. Bob,
Thank you for the offer on the battery switch!  I will gladly take yours as a beginner battery switch setup.  It should last me quite some time in Tennessee.  If it does happen to poop out on me in a few years, then I can upgrade to a Blue Seas switch.

for my battery to battery connections, what wire would yall suggest?  I don't think I need 2 ga for batteries that are sitting side by side.Where is an ideal mounting spot inside the center console for a battery switch?  I don't want to put four screw holes in my console to mount the switch to the side.  

I am going to hook up the muffs tomorrow, and crank the boat up in the driveway to check all of the systems.  Its better for things to go wrong on the trailer in your own driveway, then for them to go wrong on your maiden voyage in the lake.  I'm also going to give the old girl a bath, then to the county clerk's office to get her registered with the state!

Thanks for all of yall's help!
-Ben

Ben
Everything has to be the same gauge wire, think of it as plumbing, you will only get as much current flow as the smallest wire size in your circuit will allow.  Wire your parallel connections with #2 as well.  If you didn't order those, you can pick them up from West or some other place, already made up probably, because they won't be very long.
Marc

[Blue Agave]

Ben,

Take a look at the photo again, the battery cables are Red & Yellow.
Red = Hot & Yellow = Ground

I bet you can't wait to splash her, looks like you are very close. Good Luck with the Maiden Voyage.

[seabob4]

Ben,
Each motor has 1 red (12V+) and 1 yellow (12V-) cable.  I use yellow for 12VDC- (ground) as it will become the standard per ABYC (probably 2013).  Falls in line with European req.'s when a boat has 120VAC power on board, to differentiate between 12VDC ground and 120VAC hot.  

Black or yellow is fine.  I kinda like yellow, livens up the joint...  

[BTF112989]

Marc,
good plumbing analogy. That makes sense now & it was kind of a stupid question now that I think of it.

I went ahead and ordered all of the cables(engine cables & the cables to setup the dual batteries) from greg's marine wire.  It came out to $147 sign, sealed, delivered.  I went ahead & calculated what it would have cost me, if I had gone the worst marine route, just for fun.  It would have been $295 from them.  They wanted $25 for a pre-made 18" 2 ga cable.     Maybe I'm a cheap guy, but I think that is downright crazy.  So, thanks a ton seabob for helping me find the wire for half price!

I didn't look at those pictures close enough.  It is indeed a yellow negative cable.  I went ahead & ordered the yellow.  Why not be within regulations for Europe right now & for the ABYC within the future.  The real reason I ordered the yellow though was to liven the joint up like seabob said.  

Between all of yall with a little extra shoutout to Capt. Bob & SeaBob, I have successfully gotten my boat rigged & wired with dual batteries!  Thanks Guys! (I should probably wait until I actually get these big ole battery cables down that rigging tube to say that)

I tested the boat out today on land.  pulled the hose out of the garage, hooked the muffs up, and let her rip.  She started up great, went in all gears smoothly, etc.  However, she didn't shoot any water out of the telltale hole.  I read online that this is sometimes normal with the bigger Yamaha engines(muffs don't give enough water pressure as a lake does) & as long as the muffs were shooting water in there I didn't worry too much.  However, after about 4 minutes of idling my overheat alarm went off(set to go off at 195 degrees), so I immediately shut it off.  The heads didn't feel overly hot or anything.  Apparently, this sometimes happens also when these bigger yamahas are on the muffs(according to various iboats & THT threads).  I'm just worried I hurt/killed impeller.  I hope I didn't.  I'm gonna test the boat out on wednesday at the lake, so hopefully the Yamaha will pee normally there.  If not, I may be in for a new impeller.

-Ben

[gran398]

Ben,

This is great news. You're getting a nice job.  All of the guys gave great advice.

Re the cooling: Was she at least spitting on the muff? My 130 Yammie V4's peed hard on the muff.

V4 vs. V6....but surprised there was no flow. Should have been instantaneous, IMHO.

[slvrlng]

Ben, get one of those plastic 55 gal. drums and cut it in half. Fill with water and try running in that.  Running a motor in one of these also gives back pressure to the exhaust and you can tell more about how it idles before you drop it in at the ramp.

[BTF112989]

She wasn't even dripping, spitting, etc.  Seemed bone dry.  Apparently its a problem with the four stroke & HPDI V6 Yamahas.  Still has me worried though.  The water was shooting sideways out of that hole below the anti-ventilation plate, so that made me feel a little bit better about nothing coming out of the hole.  The engine was peeing great less than 3 weeks ago, so I didn't worry too much.  That overheat alarm had me slightly worried though.

I may just wait until wednesday(when I plan on taking it out), and back it in at the ramp to see whether it pees in a real lake.  Heck, I may have enough time tomorrow to take it to a lake close-by if weather permits.

-Ben

[Capt. Bob]

I tested the boat out today on land.  pulled the hose out of the garage, hooked the muffs up, and let her rip.  She started up great, went in all gears smoothly, etc.  However, she didn't shoot any water out of the telltale hole.  I read online that this is sometimes normal with the bigger Yamaha engines(muffs don't give enough water pressure as a lake does) & as long as the muffs were shooting water in there I didn't worry too much.  However, after about 4 minutes of idling my overheat alarm went off(set to go off at 195 degrees), so I immediately shut it off.  The heads didn't feel overly hot or anything.  Apparently, this sometimes happens also when these bigger yamahas are on the muffs(according to various iboats & THT threads).  I'm just worried I hurt/killed impeller.  I hope I didn't.  I'm gonna test the boat out on wednesday at the lake, so hopefully the Yamaha will pee normally there.  If not, I may be in for a new impeller.
-Ben

None of this sounds right.
Can't comment on newer "big Yamahas" but on my 200 (91), water comes out when it's running on the muffs.
I believe that if I touched a piece of metal that was 195 degrees, it would feel hot (at least to me anyway). I believe my t-stats open in the 160+/- range. You need to look for water flowing out of the fins just above the cavitation (?) plate



Also, you may find something lodged in the pee tube. Use a small wire to clear the hole but....
That would not cause it to overheat.

[seabob4]

Ben,
You're OK.  HPDIs don't receive enough water pressure from muffs to not only spit out the pee hole, but enough to keep the over heat alarm from going off.  Wait until you get her in the water, or do as Lewis suggested.

I've had a few HPDIs lately, they all do the same thing.  I would guess a design feature, or failure on Yams part...