Is everyone able to fit all cables into the rigging tube?

[BTF112989]

Hey everybody,
I am almost done rigging up my new-to-me 1974 22-2 Aquasport.  All I have left is to run the main engine wire harness, the steering cable, the battery cable, and the oil line from my Yamaha up into the console.  My rigging tube is jam-packed full and I cannot fit anymore wiring through without it getting stuck 3/4 of the way to the console.  

Can I run the remaining wires, cables, etc along the bottom of the hull, outside the stringer without running into any other bulkheads or obstacles?  Is this unsafe or not recommended?  I just can't see any other way of finishing my rigging, since my tube is filled up.

Or if yall have any helpful hints to make more room in the rigging tube, that would be helpful too.  I think its just the way all of the wires are laying that is causing the impassible backup.

I've been using a plumbing snake to work my way to the back of the boat, tying the desired wire that I want to run to the end of the snake, then pull it up through into the console.  This has worked very well, but now the tube is getting very full...


Thanks,
Ben

[seabob4]

Ben,
What diameter is the rigging tube?  Most likely 3".  Saying your attempts get hung up about 3/4 of the way to the console, that should be right at where the tube takes a 45 heading over to the console.  Have you tried pulling from the console aft?

And my favorite snake is an old universal control cable...

[gran398]

Are you using lube? Not a cute joke, lube is imperative when the tube is nearing capacity.

[BTF112989]

Well, I guess it is more of a rigging channel instead of a tube.  I would say its probably 4" x 3".  The channel seems to go straight back, then takes a 22.5 degree or so turn towards the notch in the stringer that leads into the console.  The wires are still getting stuck in the straight section about 2 feet short of the opening.  Most of my cables have to be pulled forward because they are connected at the engine side already or the plug is larger on the engine side. The oil line is one exception.  I will try to pull the oil line from the console aft tomorrow to see if that works.

What type of lube are we talking about?  That may just be the ticket!

[seabob4]

Does you channel have a lid that is secured to the cockpit sole?  I've run into this on Alex Buck's 200, the cables/wiring/whatever get hung up in between the lid and the shelf it sits on when they try to make the turn...

I removed the lid...  

[gran398]

BTF,

SB4 is a professional rigger, 35 years of experience, previously worked manufacturing Aquasport/Wellcraft.  His advice is and always has been golden, not only here, but on other boating forums of which he is a valued and respected member.

I mention the lube in order to fit in a last run or two of cable. You want a nice thick grease that will stick well to your cable. The heavy blue bearing grease in the tube has worked well in the past.

You may also try to "bundle" the existing wires in the chase with smooth electrical tape (not ty-wraps). This should nearly double the run capacity. As a last resort, run a secondary tube. Do not leave any engine wiring/cable etc. exposed to the bilge.

[BTF112989]

Its the original channel type, but when the floors were redone in the boat, the lid was glassed over.  So, I cannot take the lid off.

It has the same orientation as boats with the channel with the lid secured to the cockpit console.  However, on mine there is no way to access the rigging tube due to the new floors.  

I think DerekAquasport built new decks out of wood, glassed both sides, then screwed the old rigging channel onto the underside of the deck when he rebuilt the boat.  The only access points for me are at the wire entrance and exit of the tube.

[BTF112989]

I guess I could possibly cover the plug end I'm trying to pull through with duct tape.  Shape the duct tape into a pointed cone shape.  Then put grease on the pointed duct tape end.  Maybe that will do the trick!  Kind of like shooting a greased arrowhead through there.

[gran398]

There you go, that's the idea. Know you'll be happy to get that last bit through....but always on the last snake pull, if possible...drag a long length of parachute cord and leave it in the chase for a pull in the future.

[Blue Agave]

Instead of duct tape, use electrical tape. As far as lube, grease will work but will be messy and there will be cleanup involved. There is a product that is made just for this application that will be much easier to clean up. I can't recall what it's called, hopeful SB4 will chime in.  Bob, what do you use for Lube?

[flounderpounder225]

Instead of duct tape, use electrical tape. As far as lube, grease will work but will be messy and there will be cleanup involved. There is a product that is made just for this application that will be much easier to clean up. I can't recall what it's called, hopeful SB4 will chime in.  Bob, what do you use for Lube?

Dawn dishwashing liquid, is what I use... works great, cleans your hands...  

[fitz73222]

Instead of duct tape, use electrical tape. As far as lube, grease will work but will be messy and there will be cleanup involved. There is a product that is made just for this application that will be much easier to clean up. I can't recall what it's called, hopeful SB4 will chime in.  Bob, what do you use for Lube?

Dawn dishwashing liquid, is what I use... works great, cleans your hands...  

I use Dawn as well works great. Try having someone help you push/pull through the jamb on the the other end. Also try re routing your snake. A lot of times the snake will go between two control cables or other wiring and not allow your harness to pass between the two. Also make that bullet head like you said with electrical tape and coated with Dawn. BE PATIENT! Its easy to get frustrated and yank and you wind up with broken wires and damage. I always run the big stuff first. Engine Harness, fuel line, battery cables etc. Then pull the control cables and other wiring. Basically as the amount of room in the trough diminshes; you want to pulling smaller diameter items last.

[Blue Agave]

Fitz is right, big stuff first....i.e. the steering cable.

I know what your thinking, "Dam, I hope I don't have to un-rig and start over"
As was stated above, patience.

[seabob4]

The guys at Proline used to use this stuff, you can get it at HD...



As has been said, big stuff first.  Steering cable first (if you have cable steering), then the main accessory harness (the boat's harness), then engine harnessing, then batt cables (if the batts are in the console), and finally the control cables.  Fortunately for me when I did Alex's boat, I could remove that cover, as he had a forward livewell, which necessatated a 3/4" fillhose and an 1 1/2" drain hose through that same channel.  THAT really jammed things up!!

[Capt Matt]

While rigging mine I had everything ran except the wiring harness, when I took it to the marina to rig the motor they had to take everything out of one rigging tube to run the motor harness. The plug and play connections for the new mercury wiring harness are now huge and impossible to run with anything else in the rigging tube. Even with 2 rigging tubes with 45 degree sweeps it was a pain in the butt.  Like Gran said leave a extra pull in there just in case you need to add anything later
I feel your pain
Capt Matt