82 aquasport osprey 19.6 rebuild

[gran398]

Great job fellow Tarheel

Let her go ahead and dry out. A certain day shouldn't be a deadline. When the time is right, she'll be ready.

Throw a leaf blower in there a time or three with this nice weather...let her get BONE-DRY inside those stringers. Then push her back in the shed. No dew or frost.

Lew thank goodness posted some pics tonight of my rebuild. For you going forward....the stringer tops on my mess as shown are permalloy for screw bonding, glassed over.

Please check the pics. Note the below-deck longitudinal floor supports at the inboard hull sides, and the forward casting deck supports port and starboard. And don't forget to leave a "crown" on the centerline for drainage to either side.

Best to you and your sweet 19-6

[gman 82 aquasport]

Got tops of stringers off today and got the foam out, saturated of course, but it is a 30 year old boat :) I highly reccomend anyone doing this to get a sharpshooter shovel (linemans shovel) makes getting foam out a lot easier, had all mine remove in about 45 minutes, took longer to bag.

[gman 82 aquasport]

Thanks gran, my intention it to raise the height of the stringers to 1 inch below new floor height, then glass them back together, then add 1 strip of 3/4 ply down the top of them with it getting wider where my t-top will attach, so I will have a good place to attach the t-top and the console, of course the ply will be encased in fglass and be then glassed to the top of the stringers, should never get a hole thru the stringers again... I'll check grans pics for how to get the floor crown in there, is 1/2 inch rise in the center enough to make water shed to the outside edges or do you need more crown?Nothing else but drying out until my foam and fglass and epoxy get here, Good thing that I only work 10 days a month, will give time to jump on this when supplies arrive..thought about a few bulkheads on outside of stringers for support, haven't decided yet, will be putting bulkheads in for new tank, may be having to have a custom plastic one made, going to talk to moeller on Monday (ouch)

[gman 82 aquasport]

Got a question for my stringers, since they were about 1-1 1/2 inches below the original floor height and I am raising the floor 3/4 inch, I was thinking of raising the height of the stringers to 3/4 below new floor height, then adding a strip of 3/4 ply across tops of them(glassed of course)so my floor would mount right to the new stringer tops(ply)with a little glue and screws. Plan on doing the stringers this way, unless you guys see fault in this, going to take 1/8 plexiglass strips 4" wide and screw them to the stringer sides that are still attatched to hull then attach top piece that I cutoff to remove foam to a height 3/4" below new floor. Then refill stringers with foam in original holes in stringer tops, then remove plexiglass when foam is dry, then reglass tops and sides of stringers. Then add 3/4 ply to top and glass in place, 3/4' ply will be wider than stringers where my t-top legs will mount for extra support. Think this will work, If I put stringers back to original height Iwill have to fill about 2" of space. thanks
Got all my supplies in Thurs an Fri so as soon as our little cold streak goes away I will be starting to rebuild..
starting supplies
6 gal epoxy and hardners
17oz 4" , 8", 12", tabbing glass 50 yds each
17 yrds 17oz glass biaxial,50" wide for floor
6 gal 2lb foam
5 gal 4lb foam
10 yrds 6oz glass for floor top second layer and third if it needs it
silica
wood flour
rollers
1 55 gal fuel tank
already have my plywood and such...just waiting for a little warmer weather, Foam is staying in the house for now, plan on sitting it in a tub of hot water for and hour or two before using so its temp will be 80-85 degr.

[gman 82 aquasport]

Took old floor and foam to dump yesterday, 610lbs.....figure by the time I get done with new floor it should be 200-225lbs lighter..even with a bigger fuel tank, old alum one is twice the weight of new composite one..going from 45 gal to 55 gal,

[dirtwheelsfl]

sounds like it should work well. whats going to hold the stringer caps in place when youre pouring the foam? screwing them to the plexiglass too?

id take some material (scrap wood) equal to the height youre raising the deck ( minus the 3/4 for ply on top of the stringer)  and just lay it across the cut tops of the stringers and put the stringer caps on that while youre screwing the plexiglass to them, this will make sure everything is nice and straight and parallel.

dark colored car roofs work great for warming up resin/foam also...

[sealion2288]

Try placing the resin, hardener, etc., in a black garbage bag and set it in the sun. Works great for motor oil, gear lube etc.

[gman 82 aquasport]

thanks dirtwheelsfl, thought about just laying some 1x4s across the opening and putting a 1/4" spacer between them and the sringer tops, but figured that there was no way to control the foam from coming out wherever it wanted.The stringer tops will be screwed to the plexi also. For now I have all my liqiud supplies in the house because they aren't opened yet.

sealion 2288 I'll have to try the black bag trick. Thanks

[slvrlng]

Whatever you use, 1X4 or ply, wrap the strips in polyethylene sheeting. Once the foam cures it doesn't stick real bad to the plastic. Just don't pull it off before it sets up.  

[gman 82 aquasport]

HOUSTON WE HAVE A PROBLEM!!!!!
Took out floor drains yesterday and found wood, more precise wet wood, not rotten but wet. I have figured out that previously when the transom was redone it appears to have only been cut out and poured to the level of the tops of the drains. :(  I will drill a couple of weep holes Monday to see how far down it was poured.
My question is this: Since the top of the transom has been poured about half the height of the transom. How hard is a poured transom to dig out and remove the inside layer to recore with wood as original?
I don't have a problem cutting the transom apart,just need info on how hard the poured material(thinking nidacore)will be to get loose from the outer skin...Any advise will be appreciated for I will be cutting it lose this week. And I thought this was going to be a little more simple than this
Going to check the transom drain monday also and see if the wood is still there and if its wet. The poured part is hard as a rock but if it's not all the way to the keel it might as well have been poured with jello :x

[dirtwheelsfl]

hmm thats a new one on me. might be easier to cut the whole thing out and do the formica dam/mold new outer skin treatment to it. never tried to seperate poured material from a skin, imagine youd do some damage to the outer skin getting it out though..

[gman 82 aquasport]

After a lot of grinding yesterday and here is what I found, the transom was poured completely to the bottom, there is a small void around the drain that after I removed the drain I will be able to pack the void with glass fibers and resin, looks like they just didn't get all the wood out..The floor drains were the same , 1 of them had a little wood left around it maybe 3/8 inch around the drain. and since I am moving the drains a little higher I will just cut a larger plug to fill and glass..Rest of the transom hard as concrete all the way down, sounded it with a hammer..alot happier now that I figured out that I won't have to redo the transom...
Going to post some pics this weekend, getting ready to do a little modification to the front deck area....going to cut the center storage box(cooler) down to half its lenght and make little floor area so the Mrs will have a place to sit up front and  be comfy.. she likes to ride on the bow while out and feel the spray...sort of make it look a little like a bow rider the seating up front will form U but will have a drop in board to still use it as a casting deck or a layout deck for the Mrs.. :pirat:

[gman 82 aquasport]

Finally a little better weather to get some work done, found arotted area of the center stringer, cut it out

will but a shorter one back as the tank area will have afloor under it

Also cut the cooler up front down 23 inches and will build a floor so the Mrs has a place up front to sit, going to put 3 cushions up there



Got a new layer of 17oz glass down the center of the hull today, reglassed the center stringer

Will try to raise the stringer height up next to get ready to pour them as weather permits. moved the tank forward 24 inches and will move console forward 4 inches..I have a plan to put a storage area under the leaning post under the floor, the hatch will be under the leaning post so it won't be walked on, the storage area will be 24in wide by 28in long and 9 in deep.Tank area will drain under this storage area and the storage area will have a drain yo the bilge.

[gman 82 aquasport]

The pics didn't seem to load I will try again in the morning..

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Rick

[gran398]

After a lot of grinding yesterday and here is what I found, the transom was poured completely to the bottom, there is a small void around the drain that after I removed the drain I will be able to pack the void with glass fibers and resin, looks like they just didn't get all the wood out..The floor drains were the same , 1 of them had a little wood left around it maybe 3/8 inch around the drain. and since I am moving the drains a little higher I will just cut a larger plug to fill and glass..Rest of the transom hard as concrete all the way down, sounded it with a hammer..alot happier now that I figured out that I won't have to redo the transom...
Going to post some pics this weekend, getting ready to do a little modification to the front deck area....going to cut the center storage box(cooler) down to half its lenght and make little floor area so the Mrs will have a place to sit up front and  be comfy.. she likes to ride on the bow while out and feel the spray...sort of make it look a little like a bow rider the seating up front will form U but will have a drop in board to still use it as a casting deck or a layout deck for the Mrs.. :pirat:

Good deal....glad the transom seems solid. Have some thoughts. Please check your PM's manana. Tx