Steering, Batteries, and Motors

[Mr. Osprey]

What a day!

Went to Monahan's Marine today in Weymouth and picked up the NFB Safe-T II Steering system. When I bought it the clerk and service guy told me that it's "the poor man's hydrualic steering system". Can't wait to try it out this summer when it starts to heat up.

The reason I'm posting is to share an interesting fact that the people at Monahan's told me. When there, I asked for eight foot long cables to reach under my console and the guy said that that would be a terrible thing to do. He said I should have my battery as close to the motor as possible so it has a less distance to travel. The closer the battery is to the motor, the more "juice" it will recieve from the alternator. The farther away it is the less juice the battery will recieve and it will wear out the alternator and the battery.

There  goes that project! I also posted this because I know Miguel and many others mount there batteries under the console. Just don't want to see fellow members get stuck out on the water (or in the driveway   ) because of a matter of where there battery is.

Also at Monahan's while in the service shop, I saw two 1999 Evinrude Ficht Ram Injected 2-strokes for sale at $4700. Any opinions on the motor? Performance to expect with it?

Thanks guys

[John Jones]

I call BS on the battery location answer you received.  It all has to do with cable size.  Properly sized cables will cause no more loss than existing cables.   :evil:   I get really irritated at people that don't know what they are talking about.  Not at you for asking the question, at the counter guy for spouting off on something he is clueless about.  I moved mine and my situation is actually better.  As found, all my electronics would shut off due to low voltage when I cranked the motor.  After moving the batteries to the console and putting in #2 AWG MARINE copper cables, my electronics don't even bobble when cranking and the motor cranks faster.

I have thirty years in the electrical/electronics field to back this up.  I also stayed at a Holiday Inn last week.  

[John Jones]

Ficht technology is what bankrupted Evinrude due to excessive warranty claims.

[warthog5]

I get really irritated at people that don't know what they are talking about. Not at you for asking the question, at the counter guy for spouting off on something he is clueless about.

Amen!  the guy told you BS, but why are you trying to buy cables thru a High priced marine store?

Buy it here: http://bestboatwire.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=24

[John Jones]

10-4 on the Best Boat Wire.  That is where I bought my cables and terminals as well as a couple of spools of wire for connecting all the small stuff.

[GoneFission]

The other JJ is on target.  Give me big enough cable (or high enough voltage) and I can run about any length you want.  Think about welding leads - low voltage, high current, long runs - but BIG cables!  Center of gravity and weight distribution are important; don't worry about voltage loss on a 10 foot run of #2 cable.

Fichts (especially the early ones) don't seem to have the best rep in the biz.  Same was true for the early Optimax (I've heard the early ones called Poptimax due to the failures!).  However, Mercury seems to have worked the bugs out and the current Optimax line seems to be highly regarded.  

Hope this helps and good luck!

[jsink]

If you use properly sized cables, then you should be able to put the batteries anywhere in the boat.  One thing to keep in mind though - you MUST use tinned wire in a marine application - that way the wire won't degrade over time.  Regular stranded wire will corrode and over time it will build up a massive resistance - trust me - I know from experience.  After adding a new battery on one of my old rigs, I started a nice little fire.  The engine was barely turning over so I swapped out the battery thinking it was about shot (it was not charging good, but that wasn't because it had a bad cell).  One of the main battery cables got a knick in it and the wire got so corroded that it started to act like a heating element.  After putting in the new battery it had enough juice that after 5-10 seconds of cranking, I see some smoke coming out from under the back deck. The jacket had melted and caught fire.  The cheap battery cables they give you with your engine are only good for a short time before the wire inside tarnishes and completely turns black - this is the root for over half of the electrical problems I have had on boats.  I have never had an issue with any repair I have done using tinned wire and heat shrink sleeving (with the glue inside).

[John Jones]

this is the root for over half of the electrical problems I have had on boats. I have never had an issue with any repair I have done using tinned wire and heat shrink sleeving (with the glue inside).

You got that right!

[Miguel]

Sorry for having been out of the loop for so long, but I have a 3 month old kid that is draining most of my spare time....
Go with the under console battery.  The currents and distances involved are not as high as they would need to be in order for you to have problems.  Be sure to properly size your wires, tough.  If not, a lot of energy will be dissipated as heat and the system losses efficincy and may even be dangerous.

[22FamilyFish]

You can also use Welding cable in any guage needed.I did this with great success as it allows for a custom (length) installation and you can work one cable at a time.This is also convenient for dual battery set-ups where routing is needed.Welding cable has finer copper wires inside for good conductivity.Cable ends are available to solder on for stud type(wingnut) batteries.Use 50/50(or electrical)solder for better conductivity.

[Radioshop]

One comment on welding wire.  The advantage of the small strands is not better conductivity, it's more flexible and bends easier, this is good on a boat because it's easier to route.  It's also less subject to vibration problems.  Any time you solder in a marine application, use flux remover to clean your terminals afterwards.  Flux causes corrosion.  If you can't find flux remover, then try lacquer thinner.  

I never thought about using welding wire for that application.  It's a good idea.  We used to use it for powering big a$$ed CB linear amps once upon a time.  It was great because there was little or no voltage drop.