Just started on a 1974 22-2 and have some questions

[midfloridanursery]

yes i'm in lakeland

[midfloridanursery]

Worked on the bulk heads this week.  Also put down more glass in the center of the boat under the fuel tank and along the chines from boat to stern.  Going to start on putting in the forward casting deck this week.

[midfloridanursery]

* Bow to stern

[Necessary Evil]

Man! You are motoring! Wish I were making as much progress!

If I may ask, what are you going to do about your tank? Aluminum or plastic? Manufacturer? Size? I'm still wondering about tanks :)

And what # foam did you use in the stringers? What # are you going to use in the voids beneath the deck?

Looks like a great job; can't wait to see more!

Happy holidays,

Charlie

[midfloridanursery]

Man! You are motoring! Wish I were making as much progress!

If I may ask, what are you going to do about your tank? Aluminum or plastic? Manufacturer? Size? I'm still wondering about tanks :)

And what # foam did you use in the stringers? What # are you going to use in the voids beneath the deck?

Looks like a great job; can't wait to see more!

Happy holidays,

Charlie

A plastic tank came with the boat when i bought it.  I'm not sure who made it but it is 54 gallons.  To be honest, i didn't really give it much thought.  I've been on several other posts and I've heard several people give pros and cons for both.  I'll double check on the foam and will get back with you.  I ordered it through a friend who builds his own skiff so just got what he uses on a regular bases.

I'm building my deck soon and plan on using 1" penske for it.  I was planning on bonding it to the stringers with puddy and then glassing it in to the side walls so there shouldnt be any voids.  I'm going to foam all the areas created by my bulk heads with the exception of two (using those for in deck storage) and the stringers.

[midfloridanursery]

Trying to decide how to build the back portion of the cap that goes over the transom.  I'd like it to be 10" in depth but don't know if I should glass it to the transom or just make a 2" or so lip on it and screw it to the transom and cover it with rub rail.  Any suggestions?  

Another question that pops up is if I do glass it to the transom, do I have to do the same for the rest of the cap around the entire boat?  Definitely something I don't want to do.  I see a lot of guys on here do that and think its a great idea but it is labor intensive and I want to steer away from that if possible.

[Capt Matt]

For my transom cap I used 1/2 inch coosa so I could get it to bend and get a curved shape to match the bottom of the hull. Just a idea: if your going to make the transom cap flat put just a little crown in the middle so it does not hold water.  The 1 inch penske your getting to do the deck might be a little thick but should work if you don't want to buy another size sheet.  I extended my stringer knee's all the way up the transom to support the new transom cap. Then I glassed some long coosa pieces the same width as the bow cap to the inside of the gunnel to support the old cap and the transom cap transition.
I see from your pictures you cut the bow cap about a foot from the transom. I did the same.  The joint where the bow cap joins into the new transom cap needs to be really strong to not crack later down the road. If your building a transom cabinet you can use that bulkhead to support that joint, if not I would put a gusset at the joint for extra support  

This finish work is what will make the boat
Capt Matt

[Capt Matt]

[Treefish]

I see somebody float tested their new AQ in Lake Hunter.

[LilRichard]

I used a 1/2" piece of ply I warped over a few days... then glassed the bottom of it.  I glassed it to the hull - because I wanted it to become a part of the support network in the transom.  

Mine was over a foot wide at the top for two reasons: I wanted a compartment in the rear, and due to the slant of the transom, if you make it too marrow, there is no room at the bottom.

[Capt Matt]

If i remember right 18 inches at the top gave me roughly 14 inches at the bottom of the cabinet. Just enough space to hold a 2 stroke oil tank.
Capt Matt

[midfloridanursery]

For my transom cap I used 1/2 inch coosa so I could get it to bend and get a curved shape to match the bottom of the hull. Just a idea: if your going to make the transom cap flat put just a little crown in the middle so it does not hold water.  The 1 inch penske your getting to do the deck might be a little thick but should work if you don't want to buy another size sheet.  I extended my stringer knee's all the way up the transom to support the new transom cap. Then I glassed some long coosa pieces the same width as the bow cap to the inside of the gunnel to support the old cap and the transom cap transition.
I see from your pictures you cut the bow cap about a foot from the transom. I did the same.  The joint where the bow cap joins into the new transom cap needs to be really strong to not crack later down the road. If your building a transom cabinet you can use that bulkhead to support that joint, if not I would put a gusset at the joint for extra support  

This finish work is what will make the boat
Capt Matt

Thanks buddy.  I actually bought 1/2 inch penske for the transom and 1" for the deck.  When i bought the boat, the transom cap had already been cut off.  I definitely wouldn't have done that myself but now i'm having to build a new one.  I like your idea with putting gussets at the joint.  Will do that once we start to put back together.

[LilRichard]

If i remember right 18 inches at the top gave me roughly 14 inches at the bottom of the cabinet. Just enough space to hold a 2 stroke oil tank.
Capt Matt

That sounds about spot on!

[midfloridanursery]

The holidays made it hard to sit down long enough to upload the progress on the boat but here are some pictures of what we have finished.  Put the forward deck in and glassed in the main deck using 1" Penske.  When building the deck, we glassed in trevera where all the screws for my console and tower will go, along with 4  1/4" thick 12"X12" metal plates for all four legs of my tower.  It is sandwiched between 1.5 oz mat, 3610, and trevera on each side.  I foamed all the free areas created from the bulk heads along with the entire stringer system.  Left two areas wide open so that I can make some in deck storage next to the console on each side.  In the process with making the hatches for both in deck storage and bilge access.  We have also sanded and applied putty to the entire deck to smooth everything out and give it a even transition form front to make.  From here, I plan on painting the cap, and entire inside of the deck.  Want to get that out of the way once we get closer to finishing up with the glass work.  Then, I have to take it to another location and have a friend give me a hand with turning her over and working on the bottom.  After that is finished, i'll paint.  The guys we have working on the boat are great and have been real efficient with the work.  Hate to see that they are working their way out of a job.  If anyone is interested or needs some small work on their boat, let me know and i'll give you their number.  (Not trying to give anyone a plug or sell on this forum.  Just would like to give them a hand when the time comes for us to send them home.)

[midfloridanursery]

More pics.