Removing & Replacing Gauge Panel

[wessnapp]

Please keep in mind I am FAR from mechanical or electrically inclined.  

I have to remove my gauge panel, make a template, and reconnect it.  Is there any trick or special advice you all can give me?  

As you can see in the picture, I have to be careful because of the brittleness of material.  But as far as disconnecting the gauges, switches, breakers, etc...  what do I do?  And then I have to reconnect everything....

[Capt. Bob]

Hire someone!

All kidding aside, the screws in the front are the easiest part. You will need to disconnect all the wiring in order to remove the actual Aqua panel. The switches can be removed via the front by removing the rubber boots and removing the nut holding the switch in place. It will then pass through the opening in the gauge panel from the front to back.

The gauges and their wiring will not. Unlike the switch, the gauge mounts through the front and is held in place in the back. Removing the mounting bracket nuts (2) will allow the gauge to move forward but the wiring will need to be disconnected in order to fully remove the panel.

That stated, if you're going to tackle this then first be sure you have no power running to the panel. Best way to do that and be absolutely sure is to disconnect the lead at the battery. Since you down play your electrical skills, this insures that the disconnect is correct. You may also accomplish this by turning the battery switch (if you have one), to the off position but since I have no idea how your boat is wired, the battery lead removal works for most of our type craft.
 
If you can get a pic or two under the console at the wiring (before you begin), that will help when re-wiring everything. Bundle each gauge group with a tie wrap and if you want additional insurance, label each bundle to its corresponding gauge. You may (probably) find that some gauges are daisy chained at the ground or power/light posts. If possible, you can just disconnect one side and pull the remaining length of wire through the panel face with the gauge. Could/may save a little time and labor. If the rigger was good, you may find that the wiring is bundled very neatly and you will need to remove each lead but reinstall will be much easier. Photos will be your new best friend.

This is also a good time for inspection of the wiring and the connection points. Clean/repair/replace and lube where needed.
While this isn't rocket science, if you just start pulling off wires, you will have a clusterf__k under the console. Be methodical and take your time.

Making a good looking template will then be your real challenge.

Reverse your procedure to put it all back together or...
Trailer it over to Mermaidville and have Bob go through it like salts through a widow woman.    

Good luck and post some pics.

[flounderpounder225]

pretty sure they have that entire panel, over at Marine Connection In Ft. Pierce, with and posssibly without gauges and switches.. send them a picture via email.
http://www.themarineconnection.net/Gauges.html

BTW, I am making my Semi-Annual run down for Thanksgiving to visit the family, so if any of you guys have requests for eyes on stuff, let me know, (details, measurements, pictures etc...) are good.

[wessnapp]

Thanks Capt Bob!  I was thinking the same thing about inspecting, etc...  However, since all I have to do right now is remove, template, and re-attach - I may wait until the new panel arrives to get it done right.  When you say lube - what lube are you talking about?

Flounder:  I contacted Marine Connection and they do not have the panel either with or without gauges.

[Capt. Bob]

 When you say lube - what lube are you talking about?

On my CCP the wiring is exposed under the console (I assume yours is also). I treated the gauge/rocker switch/ignition connection points with Corrosion X after I attached the wiring. A little squirt through the spray tube works very well. The connections are made FIRST and then they and the posts get coated. Leaves a film that seems to work at keeping corrosion at bay. The gauges and such in my console were still corrosion free after 15 years in some cases. A dab of Petrolatum (Vaseline) also works, is less expensive but somewhat messy and at times harder to apply.

Not SOP with everyone but works for me.

[pete]

Wes,here are some pics of most of the panels they have at MCL, viewtopic.php?f=8&t=7617  good luck,Pete

[flounderpounder225]

Wes,here are some pics of most of the panels they have at MCL, http://www.classicaquasport.com/phpbb3/ ... f=8&t=7617  good luck,Pete

For my trip over there, do you remember where specifically the split hatch fish box covers were?  I assume out the big back garage door facing East, then to the right or left, near the building or out some in the yard area?? If I found them, I would get them.  I can FAB the center section.  Thanks
Marc

[Capt. Bob]

Wes,here are some pics of most of the panels they have at MCL, viewtopic.php?f=8&t=7617  good luck,Pete

Well I'm pretty old, never been good lookin' and I may be wrong but I'm guessin" Pete ain't no professional photographer either but.......
It sure as hell looks like the second Aqua panel shown on those link pics from the Ray Charles School of Focus Photography is your panel Wes.

Try closing one eye and turning your head left while sticking out your chin and take a look. It looks like they may be Yammy gauges but the ignition/switch and breaker count appear the same. Color, well good luck there. Appears you need to drill some extra holes.Still.....

Maybe they sold it already

That's you Pete.  

[seabob4]

CB,
You are correct.  That is a 200 Osprey panel.  Unfortunately, since Yams were/are "all-in-one" gauges, anything else will need a few more holes, and the spacing won't be right...

[pete]

Found the hatch covers near the black dot on this pic,no there is not an actual black dot out there!

[seabob4]

They need more leaning post frames!!!  

[wessnapp]

Prior to my ordering an after market panel, I had sent MNL a request with my picture of the panel and dimensions - they didn't have it in stock.  Plus, with how brittle the original one is from sun exposure, I decided to get a new one made that will last.

SO, I got after it yesterday afternoon.  Here is a picture of the rigging behind the panel:


As you can see, whoever did the rigging did me a HUGE favor because everything is zip tied in order so any idiot who disconnects the switches will know the order!

I was surprised to see how many things were attached the 12V receptacle. I am not sure if it is normal is use this method to power the GPS and Radio.  Thoughts?


THE BIGGEST PROBLEM I HAVE:

- The nuts/bolts on the back of the Water pressure gauge are rusted pretty bad and with very little force, when I twist the nuts I turn the entire bolt with it.    Any advice on this?  How do I get it off?

Also, am I seeing crazy or does the water pressure gauge work by a small tube of water being fed by the engine?  I am afraid to pull it off....Should I?    I thought everything was an electronic reading....the last one I tackle always seems to create the biggest problems!

Finally, the rigging is so tight that I am actually concerned that I wont be able to get everything back the way it was without the "wiggle room" needed.  We shall see.

[seabob4]

Hey Wes,
If you want, I'll re-wire your panel for you...the RIGHT way, with adhesive-lined heat shrink terminals, have her looking like this...



And, yes, you're water pressure gauge works off a pitot tube from the motor...

[wessnapp]

Bob, I am leaning that way to be honest.  Just need to finish getting the panel off tonight so I can make the template and send it out.  

While I wait to receive the new panel, I am thinking about getting new gauges and have you just put it in right.  

Am I safe to remove the pitot tube and will it go back on easy?

[seabob4]

Bob, I am leaning that way to be honest.  Just need to finish getting the panel off tonight so I can make the template and send it out.  

While I wait to receive the new panel, I am thinking about getting new gauges and have you just put it in right.  

Am I safe to remove the pitot tube and will it go back on easy?

Yep.  You can just yank it off, but for it to come off easy (and to go back on the same), just put a heat gun to it for a little bit, it will soften up and come right off...