1976 22-2, Beginning the rebuild...

[Capt Matt]

20 or even 15 pound density coosa for the deck is plenty strong,  save your cash for the bluewater 26 for the transom. i went with the 20# 3/4 coosa for the deck, If you have really large spans to cover without bulkheads you might want to go with 3/4.
There is nothing wrong with a little over kill and it will still be lighter than marine ply.
Capt Matt

[dburr]

I had the tabs put straight up. Once the tank was in I then simply drilled through the stringers and tab then thru bolted with stainless nuts and washers. Should be in for ever. Think of the tabs like hangers.
Even if you kept the trapazoid/foam filled stringers you could bend the tabs to fit flush to the stringer angle, push a stainless sleave thru the stinger then thru bolt
Seemed like the best way to go, no straps or foam needed.

Hanging the tank is a fantastic idea!  It gets me thinking about the strength of the glass..

My math is not the best..

52 gals gas = +/- 350 lbs divided between four bolts is about 88 pounds per bolt shear load..  ½ inch bolt would be like 176psi steady state shear load on the bolts and glass (no pounding/sloshing).  Just curious about glass thickness at the point where they are drilled for the bolts.  The stainless tube (5/8?) would increase the surface area and reduce the point load.  In the interest of overbuilding how thick would the glass have to be to not have to worry about it breaking down?  Or am I way over thinking it??

[Necessary Evil]

Thanks for the Coosa advice Capt. Matt! You have been really helpful! I'm going to chat with my Coosa dealer this afternoon.

I'm also tying to get the tank ordered today. I'm going to copy you again and have mounting straps welded on so I can hang it between the stringers. I think I'll reinforce the through bolt locations with a Coosa pad well glassed in. Or maybe just a real heavy extra glass Layer.  Have wait and see how the tank looks in there.

Thinking 15 or 18 pound foam for the stringers . Any ideas?

Thanks to all for your advice. I truly couldn't have done this without the folks on CA! Can't wait to post some "finished!" pics!

Charlie

[gran398]

For what its worth:

On ours, the builder felt more comfortable in making the tank area a coffin....that is, a glassed nidacore floor above the keel, glassed to the stringers. Then glassed coosa bulkheads fore and aft with weep holes for condensation drainage/air circulation.

Then the four glassed-in fiberglass strips, then the 5200, then the tank. Tank chocked per each inside corner with poured foam inside 1 gallon ziplock bags. Then fiberglass girders across the tank above, 5200 between these girders and the aluminum, locking everything down. Then the girders glassed to the stringers.

Pics of most of this shown here (Miss Delmarva).

No better than Matt's suggestion...just different. Both methods allow plenty of air circulation, which is key.

[Capt Matt]

I don't think the stringer through bolts holding the tank in place really support much weight they just hold a already tight fitting fuel tank in place. I was debating if I should coal tar the tank but the wielder talked me out of it.
Gran did you coal tar?
Capt Matt

[gran398]

Matt, went with a product Lew put us on....wing is familiar with it too....it is a light, amber colored parrafin based spray coating. Starts off sticky, then dries. The link is around here somewhere.

It starts off sticky, but after a couple days dries. Turns water like a duck's back. Also advertised as a corrosion resistant sealant. Lew sold it for auto use, wing used it for aircraft corrosion-proofing.

It is available on the net, or through body shop supply houses.

Hopefully Lew reads this, but if not, I have the link at work. We were right pleased with it after we put it on....three coats on the bottom, two coats everywhere else. Three cans total did an 82 gallon tank.

[Necessary Evil]

Bring in the Pros!

After much soul searching, and a significant amount of wifely sarcasm, I turned my boat over to Rob Wilhoit and his crew at Boat Haus in Sarasota. I spent some time in their shop talking out the project and I am very excited about the quality of the work they have in process and the plan we came up with for my boat.

I'll keep posting progress reports as I get them. Many thanks to everyone for their help and advice. I'm still very interested in your comments, so please keep them coming!

Charlie

[Necessary Evil]

I'm thinking crimson and white for the paint scheme. What do you think?

[gran398]

Charlie...you're a Tide guy...so Roll Tide

The good news regarding professionals...you can't beat a man at his own game. You did a great job on the demo and prep. You saved serious money in doing so.

Good deal...keep us posted

[Necessary Evil]

Some progress by Rob Wilhoit and his crew at Boathaus in Sarasota.

Building the transom



New stringers and transom

[Necessary Evil]

Armaments?

This?



Or this!

[Necessary Evil]

More progress. One piece deck mold. 1/2 inch of 20 lb. foam, 2 layers of 2415 glass on either side.

[Necessary Evil]

Transom to stringer bond.

[gran398]

Lookin' good!

[RickK]

Transom to stringer bond.

Man, that baby looks strong!!