anchor storage

[love2fish]

74- 22-2 V hull.
 
I started tearing the bow cap up yesterday. to say the wood was wet would be the understatement of the year. I think the water got in from improperly installed hardware (no silicone or 5200 on any of the cleats, lights, eyes). I want to have just a smooth cap with non-skid all the way around.

So that leads me to the question of: Where does everyone keep thier anchor? i currently have mine in the back left side hatch of the casting deck, but it either bounces around if I keep it on top of whatever else i have in there or i have to pull everything out to get the anchor if i leave it on the bottom.

I was thinking of installing another hatch forward of the "insulated box" on the casting deck but I'm not completely sure of that yet.

What do you all do or suggest?

Thanks!

[Blue Agave]

I keep my anchor and rope in a seven and a half gallon bucket which I keep in the back of the boat when I am under way. I can toss the anchor out the back or carry the bucket up to the bow. I only have 100ft of rope, but that's all I need for the type of boating I do. If I need more, I have more stored in the front hatch.

[gran398]

love2,

On my 22-2 under reconstruction, casting deck area:

We have left in the front box, insulated for fish. The rear two boxes will access from either side a large storage area (the entire bottoms of those boxes were removed) extending to a false floor above the keel. Bulkhead at rear to keep things from sliding out of sight.

This area will hold at least three 5 gallon buckets.

Behind that, in the floor, we will have a 22 X 13 inch hatch for additional storage. This hatch will go in directly in front of the forward seat of the console.

[Capt Matt]

I keep my sea claw anchor in a milk crate with only 30ft of line and a floating buoy on a clip on the bitter end. The float is for when I hook a big fish so I can pitch the anchor quickly and go chase it. The milk crate drains so the anchor and rode never sit in water. 30ft of rope does not tangle up like 100ft plus.
I do carry a extra 50ft and 100ft of line with a clip just in case or if I go offshore. I can unclip and remove the buoy and clip on the extra rode.
The anchor sits perfect in the milk crate and does not chip any paint/ gel coat. Its easy to remove the whole crate from the front hatch if I want to anchor off the stern.
A 12 pound sea claw anchor is the best anchor made for here on the west coast of FL. It does not need any chain and always hangs bottom.
Capt Matt

[Thermal]

I'm creating an anchor locker at the bow. I've had a similar set up on another boat and liked it. Room for anchor, lines and bumpers, and keep the anchor secure. See pic here showing new wall. I'll need a secure and strong hatch on cap.  Good luck.   BTW -- I'm also restoring a '74, 22-2, V-hull.

[love2fish]

Gran- I've also thoguht that between the console and the front casting deck would be a great place for some additional below deck storage. When i had my gas tank lid off, i noticed how much space there was down there. What kind of hatch are you going with?

Thermal- I like that idea as well, but wasnt sure how to "plumb" the hatch so any water would drain to the bilge instead of just down into the hull and all over any anchor rope or whatever else you had in there.  I'm hesitant to move the existing bulkhead aft anymore, I'm somewhere over 6-2 and have ideas of a dodger/bow inclosure for sleeping/camping out sometime down the road and barely fit on there as it is.

Does anyone know if the gause site is still around where you used to be able to buy hatch molds?

[flounderpounder225]

For anchor storage on an old CC that my father in law built for clamming in SF, there was no real storage onboard, we took a piece of PVC pipe (of the desired diameter) cut a slit out of it for the chain and rope to slip through, screwed it into a piece of starboard or PT wood painted, and mounted to the gunwale forward.  The anchor would ride upside down in it.

[MarshMarlowe196]

I'm creating an anchor locker at the bow. I've had a similar set up on another boat and liked it. Room for anchor, lines and bumpers, and keep the anchor secure. See pic here showing new wall. I'll need a secure and strong hatch on cap.  Good luck.   BTW -- I'm also restoring a '74, 22-2, V-hull.

That's a great idea Thermal, probably adds a lot more support to the cap in that area too.  My SeaCraft is set up like that already, but the hatch to access the anchor is not on the cap, its on the wall like the one that you're adding.

For what its worth, I store my anchor under the front seat of my console.  It was originally set up for a livewell, but I hate livewells in the console, so it just holds anchor, rope and bumpers.

[GoneFission]

The CCPs have an anchor locker in the bow.  I have snap-type caribiner clips connected to the underside of the bow cleats on top of the deck, and hang two anchors off the clips inside the locker.  I put a fender between the anchors to keep them from clanging into each other.  One anchor is an 8 lb slip-ring "lunch hook" that is easy to deploy and works well calmer conditions; the other is a 17 lb danforth with 6 feet of double-heavy chain for more serious conditions.

[gran398]

love2,

You're right, there IS a bunch of room there, even with us moving the tank forward eight inches. We're going to use it to store life jackets, etc.

Here is the hatch that's going in:

http://www.beckson.com/38hatches.html

Re the hatch molds. I priced buying a new 22-2 casting deck from Bayside. It was around 2k, plus shipping.

We decided to keep the original casting deck, and recore it. My hatches were shot.

Was very fortunate (and very grateful) that fitz sent his hatches up here to use as molds. He is getting a brand new set too, perfectly matched diamond non-skid, correct 70's "lima bean green" gelcoat, divinycell cored, duplicate factory glass layup.

They finished his yesterday, absolutely gorgeous. And lighter too. REAL strong. Tickled to death with how they turned out.

If you decide to go this route...the molds are here, be happy to help.

[Capt. Bob]

The CCPs have an anchor locker in the bow.

The thing I didn't like on mine was that you can't close the hatch cover (pretty, slatted teak from the factory) unless you have all of the rode on deck.

I ended up mounting anchor chalks/cleats on the upper front deck and ran the line through a hawsepipe back into the locker. In it's heyday, we used the CCP for a lot of diving and that setup made it easy for any landlubber to deploy or retrieve the anchor and saved having to replace hinges on the cover. It stayed closed and latched most of the time.

 -6 on form for sure but a +10 on function.

[LilRichard]

I agree with Thermal:

[slvrlng]

I got lucky on the 83 222. Aquasport extended the cap enough that they put in a hatch and locker. The front edge of the hatch is carved out so the line can go straight out without having the locker open. The locker has a small 1/2" drain that goes to the bilge and a 4" plate that gives access to the backing plate for the bow-eye.

[JoseGaspar]

The CCPs have an anchor locker in the bow.

The thing I didn't like on mine was that you can't close the hatch cover (pretty, slatted teak from the factory) unless you have all of the rode on deck.

I ended up mounting anchor chalks/cleats on the upper front deck and ran the line through a hawsepipe back into the locker. In it's heyday, we used the CCP for a lot of diving and that setup made it easy for any landlubber to deploy or retrieve the anchor and saved having to replace hinges on the cover. It stayed closed and latched most of the time.

 -6 on form for sure but a +10 on function.

My 250ccp has the factory slatted teak door for the anchor storage, but my bottom section of the door frame swivels so I can pivot it 90 degrees and run the anchor line through it and can still kep all of the unused rope in the storage locker and can still close the door while anchored.