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Author Topic: Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild  (Read 22674 times)

September 14, 2012, 12:57:31 PM
Reply #270

kraw2

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Re: Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild
« Reply #270 on: September 14, 2012, 12:57:31 PM »
Thanks Fletch,

I used the 13' that came in the new helm kit. A 12' would have been perfect for the original console position and rigging tray.

September 14, 2012, 07:46:44 PM
Reply #271

kraw2

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Re: Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild
« Reply #271 on: September 14, 2012, 07:46:44 PM »
Fletch,

Do you happen to have the wooden under gunwale rod holders that came with the 170 boats? I have some black starboard and want to make some but I don't have anything to go by.

Thanks,

Keith

September 15, 2012, 10:45:56 AM
Reply #272

gman 82 aquasport

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Re: Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild
« Reply #272 on: September 15, 2012, 10:45:56 AM »
You will love the Baystar set up, Installed  a Baystar hydraulic setup on my Johnson 150 and love how easy it is to steer now... Looking good... :thumright:
1982 19-6 Osprey
1992 Johnson 150
"THERAPY"
Member # 2331

September 17, 2012, 10:23:23 AM
Reply #273

Fletch170

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Re: Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild
« Reply #273 on: September 17, 2012, 10:23:23 AM »
Kraw,

Sorry man, they got tossed. All broken. I'm planning on using the taco ones. They look better IMO.
1981 2100 CC Hydra Sport
1976 170 (sold)

September 17, 2012, 11:48:59 AM
Reply #274

kraw2

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Re: Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild
« Reply #274 on: September 17, 2012, 11:48:59 AM »
What type of Taco horizontal holders are you using?

September 17, 2012, 03:56:52 PM
Reply #275

Fletch170

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Re: Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild
« Reply #275 on: September 17, 2012, 03:56:52 PM »
The generic ones they sell with the spinning inner ring that locks the rod in place. I actually have not purchased them yet. I do know, they aren't cheap.
1981 2100 CC Hydra Sport
1976 170 (sold)

September 18, 2012, 12:09:29 AM
Reply #276

dirtwheelsfl

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Re: Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild
« Reply #276 on: September 18, 2012, 12:09:29 AM »
They sure are sweet though!

September 20, 2012, 08:44:37 AM
Reply #277

Fletch170

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Re: Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild
« Reply #277 on: September 20, 2012, 08:44:37 AM »
The wiring saga continues! This is where Seabob shakes his head in disapointment! Take a look.

http://fletch170.blogspot.com/
1981 2100 CC Hydra Sport
1976 170 (sold)

September 20, 2012, 08:48:40 AM
Reply #278

Fletch170

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Re: Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild
« Reply #278 on: September 20, 2012, 08:48:40 AM »
See if you can spot the wiring blunder on the jumper block. D'oh. Look closely.
1981 2100 CC Hydra Sport
1976 170 (sold)

September 20, 2012, 09:12:32 AM
Reply #279

wingtime

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Re: Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild
« Reply #279 on: September 20, 2012, 09:12:32 AM »
Looks like you have two grounds connected to each other and nothing else.  

Did you consider using terminal block jumpers like these:  http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=4365  They would simplify things for ya.    Also I would suggest using one side of the bock for positive and the other side or negative...  or even completely separate blocks...  Bob will chime in with his extensive knowledge soon.
1998 Explorer w/ Etec 250


1987 170 w/ Evinrude 90

September 20, 2012, 10:05:31 AM
Reply #280

Fletch170

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Re: Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild
« Reply #280 on: September 20, 2012, 10:05:31 AM »
DING DING DING!!!!!!

I'm an idiot. I had these blocks laying around so I thought I'd make the best of them. I just need to make one more jump. Darrrrrrrrrrrrrr.
1981 2100 CC Hydra Sport
1976 170 (sold)

September 20, 2012, 10:07:30 AM
Reply #281

kraw2

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Re: Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild
« Reply #281 on: September 20, 2012, 10:07:30 AM »
You need to get a Blue Sea fuse block for the positive side of the system. From the picture I can't tell what's going on. I see a small red hot wire from the positive terminal block going to another terminal block right next to the ground block??

You need to get some PVC board and slap it on the sides to hold everything.

September 20, 2012, 10:22:45 AM
Reply #282

Fletch170

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Re: Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild
« Reply #282 on: September 20, 2012, 10:22:45 AM »
Kraw,

The switch pannel has the fuses built in! So, unless I completely missed the boat on this (Phun intended), the main hot goes right to the switch pannel, where they are all jumped to eachother. Take a peek at the picture under the console, you can see the switch pannel smack dab in the middle.

-Fletch
1981 2100 CC Hydra Sport
1976 170 (sold)

September 20, 2012, 10:28:33 AM
Reply #283

kraw2

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Re: Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild
« Reply #283 on: September 20, 2012, 10:28:33 AM »
Now I see Fletch.

Just make sure the wire is large enough to carry the amps for the switch panel and that wire is fused within 7" of the battery or power source. You probably know that already. And make sure every wire or component is fused.

I see at the bottom of the pic with the blocks there are grounds and hots going outside of the console at the bottom. Is this for lighting?

September 20, 2012, 10:48:42 AM
Reply #284

Fletch170

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Re: Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild
« Reply #284 on: September 20, 2012, 10:48:42 AM »
All if the wiring is 14ga, I would have liked to use thicker, but the main "in" on the fuse pannel is 14 as well. However, EVERYTHING else is 14. Yes, the wires heading outside of the console are for the 3 courtsey mini led's. I guess we will see if that will work when I turn everything on:) If it smells like burning, I'll likely revisit the wiring concept.

I'm not sure what you mean by 7" from the battery? Meaning 7 inches from the switch pannel and the hot bus? Did you mean feet?
1981 2100 CC Hydra Sport
1976 170 (sold)

 


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