Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild

[Fletch170]

Yep, I plan to leave a snake wire in the main rigging tube. I will have 3 access hatches on the deck, so rigging future things shouldnt be that bad. Key word "Shouldn't". I'll revisit this post in 2 years when my forearms are bleeding and full of fiberglass.

[Fletch170]

Hey guys, check her out, got the deck down (finally). I plan on finishing the majority of glass work this weekend (Glass deck, anchor locker, transom. I am hoping (hope being the key word here) to have her ready for primer in 2 weeks.

http://fletch170.blogspot.com/

[slvrlng]

Looks like a boat again!!!! Really nice job!!!

[RickK]

Don't remember if you said you were going to re-foam or not  

[Fletch170]

Just refoamed the stringers, nothing else. My boat actually did not have any foam in it. There really doesn't seem to be any consistacy with the 17, even the same year. I always joke that my boat was built on a Friday at 4:15....so I'm not suprised. Anyhow, the entire boat was built with the theory "hey, they'll never even see this", so the glass work is complete slop below the deck. However, she is pretty much being rebuilt by an idiot (yours truly), so it's going back together the same way:

         ""Wrong, Strong and bound to get the fishiin' on"

[RickK]

[Fletch170]

Check it out guys, deck is tabbed in.

http://fletch170.blogspot.com

[kraw2]

Hey Fletch,

You have done an amazing job and it should last a lifetime. What size hatch did you use for the bilge access? Is it waterproof?

I was lucky enough to be able to work thru the winter using fast cure 205 hardener for my epoxy. Now it's so hot and the new white deck is killing us trying to get everything done.

Gulf Breeze, FL

[Fletch170]

Thanks sir! She aint that pretty, but it should be strong. I'm pretty proud, considering this is the first time I've ever worked with glass. I believe the deck lid is 11X16, it is waterproof and will hold up to 250 pounds. I believe its a beckson?

I'm really excited with the progress, I'm trying pull a huck finn and try to get my friends to help fill holes, sand, etc. Basically, things you can't screw up 6 beers deep. Free help is, exactly that.

Kraw, what glass did you use on your deck? I'm using a layer of 1208, and a layer of chop to help hide the 0/45 texture of the 1208.

[Fletch170]

So, started glassing in the deck, amf I gotta say, it's a lot harder than I thought. So basically, I'll pour on some resin and spread it around with a bondo knife (plastic putty knife-thinger). Any corners or hard to reach places were wetted-out with a brush. However, when removing excess resin or working out air bubbles, I developed mounds of goop and chop strand. Is this the adhesive that holds the chop to the mat? Am I doing something wrong here? it looks like I will be doing my fair share of sanding before I put down the final layer of chop.

http://fletch170.blogspot.com/

[kraw2]

Hey Fletch,

I found it very helpfull to first put down a coat of thinned epoxy so it can soak into the new deck. You can wait a while before continuing before the epoxy gets set. If you wait too long you will have to sand and wash if your using epoxy.

Go back on the deck while the first coat is still ready and use a roller cover made for resins and epoxy's. It wont drag the mat along like it's now doing. I know what you mean by it all clumping and going everywhere..!!

However you get it done it's going to be a solid boat and last for many years to come.

[Fletch170]

Gottcha.

I guess I'm just coming to the realization that working with glass is hard. Seeing that this is my first time working with it, I'm drinking from a fire hose here.

I was able to work the transom last night, made some decent progress there.

Has anyone had any issues with filler cracking after rebuilding? I used structual filler (long strand fiber-putty) for the big gaps (as seen in the picture). I plan on skimming the entire transom with surfacing putty then block sanding before primer.

2 weeks to paint in my estimation....getting excited.

http://fletch170.blogspot.com/

[kraw2]

The fiberglass filler you are using is OK if it isn't structual. Just make sure the area is well sanded with 60 grit at the most and cleaned, cleaned, cleaned with acetone before applying the filler.

You can skim coat with the other filler you are using but after sanding you need to use epoxy with fairing compound added as the last step. If you are using epoxy. It will give a better finish and easier to sand. You can also use rattle can primer as a cheap guide coat to find the high and low spots.

A good wash with Dawn soap before using a pre paint cleaning solution is a good way to get everything clean. Go over it very lightly with a tack cloth before priming. After you shoot the primer every imperfection will show so you can fix them before painting. It takes hours and hours to prep and little time to paint. All the labor is getting it ready to paint. That's why I don't understand why people use cheap paint after all the days getting it ready.

Have fun...If I can do all the work I have from a wheelchair I know you can do a great job..!!

[Fletch170]

Kraw, you are the man! Thank you for the information!

The filler is not structual at all, but I wanted to use the filler with glass in it as an added measure.

I have an enormous amount of sanding in my future. I was at the shop last night filling holes/ patching/ glassing the small stuff. Took 15 minutes to think about what really needs to happen to get this thing splashed. 90% is simply sanding, as you said, hours and hours of it. I need to get a hand from some friends to get this thing done sooner. I want this thing finished by the end of July. However, me, my orbital sander, and my sanding block can only do so much.

[kraw2]

Kraw, you are the man! Thank you for the information!

The filler is not structual at all, but I wanted to use the filler with glass in it as an added measure.

I have an enormous amount of sanding in my future. I was at the shop last night filling holes/ patching/ glassing the small stuff. Took 15 minutes to think about what really needs to happen to get this thing splashed. 90% is simply sanding, as you said, hours and hours of it. I need to get a hand from some friends to get this thing done sooner. I want this thing finished by the end of July. However, me, my orbital sander, and my sanding block can only do so much.

You got it....Hours and hours of sanding. I used West Systems epoxy for just about everything. For filling any of the old holes in the deck I use epoxy thickened with 404 filler. I wanted it fully waterproof.

When doing the final skim coat I used epoxy with fairing filler. Much easier to sand and less pin holes. You will have some pin holes left with a filler like Formula 27 or similar.