Fletch's 1976 170 Rebuild

[slvrlng]

Man you are funny!!!!          

Try these guys, quick shipping and good prices. For anything structural like tabbing and laminating I like epoxy resin. Nothing else sticks like it on old glass.
Foam
http://uscomposites.com/foam.html

Resin (the best thing about epoxy is there are different speed hardeners. If we don't answer your questions in enough detail CALL THEM! They have some really good tech people.)

http://uscomposites.com/epoxy.html

The only thing about epoxy is you have to prime and paint as it doesn't do very well with long term UV exposure.

[MarshMarlowe196]

My main concern is that it's gonna start getting cold soon.....and I believe, you need above 50 weather for glass work, right? I'm hoping to have all the glass work done, then paint and rig the boat in the spring.

Valid Concern.  Temps should be between 60-85 degrees (Farenheit of course).  The colder you go, the longer the cure time, and run the chance of the resin not curing at all, changing your hardener will help, but you're still taking a chance...  

As far as the boat rebuilding blues, I read this on classicseacraft.com and it was inspiring to me  

I know what your problem is, it kind a sneaks up on you and before you know it, your are is the slumps of boat re building. Most of the guys on this board have had various degrees of the symptoms and we all talked about it several months ago. You probably mist this conversation and I don’t remember which topic it was on but, I can help you. Your problem is that you have made a major mistake in all you calculations, you for got to add a major factor in your project. That factor is called the BEER FACTOR you must add a portion of your time and energy in this very important part of boat building (its like vitamins) if you are going to stay on track with your boat. For example, if you don’t consider the Beer Factor in a transom replacement you will have problems. If I can remember correctly, it’s something like this. Transom job = 10 Days work X Cost of job X Nastiness of job = “THE BEER FACTOR”. 10X $500 X 4 ON THE NASTY LIST = 6 TO 10 SIX PACKS OF BEER.
If you have not factored this formula than boat building blues will definitely set in. Not to worry, you can get help and rejuvenate your self by simply taking the day off go the grocery get the proper brand and sit by you boat and look at all the work you have done and sip,sip,sip, think of all the fun you will have after the project is finished and sip, sip, sip, through away your anticipated date of completion and sip, sip, sip. After a few hrs or rejuvenation you will start feeling fine again. “TRUST ME ON THIS ONE”
FellowShip "

[Fletch170]

Touche'

I've already done a ton of work.....but I'm looking forward to when I start going the other way....building. Besides working away in my garage on my console, the boat is still being taken apart so to speak. So, the progress on my console keeps me going I suppose.......even though looking back, I did just about everything wrong on it.

My Fiance stated yesterday that "The Garage smells like a meth lab". How does she know what a meth lab smells like?

Thanks for the help with the foam guys. Doing some surf fishing in Dewey this weekend, but I have off on Monday, so I will be spending the day pulling the stringers apart and getting everything ready for glass.


-Fletch

[Capt Matt]

What helped me stay focused was to work from south to north as not to get overwhelmed. Do one part at a time you will get more done. Its hard to keep your focus but you can do it.
Good luck with your stringer findings
Capt Matt

[SunnyD]

OMG, I thought I was the only one going though this.  I like the beer factor theory, I think I'll use it this weekend.

[Fletch170]

Holy moly. After a month of searching high and low for a motor, I think I FINALLY got a deal. I had the Evinrude lined up from a member of classic aquasport, but I came across a deal I just couldn't turn down. Got a 2000 Yamaha 115, low hours, all controls/ guages/ oil tank/ etc for 2 grand. Not bad for up north.

The only down side is...the motor weighs a little more than the 90 Evinrude I was going to put on her.

With this being said, I was planning on moving the console forward about 3 inches to offset some of the weight. Should I really consider raising the scuppers now?

-Fletch

[MarshMarlowe196]

You got a great deal on a great engine  

Me personally, I wouldn't raise the scuppers or move the console forward.  Just get some ping pong balls and deal with them like most of the rest of us have.  If you raise the scuppers, you'll probably have to raise the floor of the boat too, which is more work/planning and you're already complaining  

I wouldn't move the console forward either, just because the further forward you place yourself, the rougher the ride is, and these old Aquas aren't really known for their ride quality...

JMHO

[gran398]

Agree with Jessie on all points.

You are gonna LOVE that Yammie

[Fletch170]

Gottcha...... I hear you with the ride thing. I was just trying to make a little more room in the back for fishing. The scuppers are about 3 inches below the deck as it is, so I wouldn't need to raise the deck.

I think the issue with these things being ass happy is even worse on the 17?

Maybe I'll just keep it as is and see how bad it is. I'll stop complaining.

I'm just excited about the motor, and I'm really excited I got a Yamaha. Is the "Precision blend" oil injection reliable? Everyone seems to crap on the VRO OMC systems...

[Capt. Bob]

Is the "Precision blend" oil injection reliable? Everyone seems to crap on the VRO OMC systems...

Well I've had both. I'd wager a guess that both have had failures. That stated.....

The PB on my 200 Yammy seems to work fine. It's outward difference is apparent with the additional "main" oil tank on the motor and a "remote" tank in the boat. The OMC VRO has but one tank. The PB seems to consume just as much oil as the VRO but appears to smoke a little less.

When the VRO first came out, there was no alarm for a oil delivery failure. I think that was the factor that lead to the distrust of the system. That was resolved, along with a different filter in the oil tank and became the VRO2 system. I never had any problem with mine (I've owned three) but everyone is different. With either system working properly, a human cannot duplicate the blending of oil and fuel at different speeds so why someone would disconnect it is illogical to me. That's just my opinion and personal experience and the piston heads on the Forum can answer it better.

[Fletch170]

I think having the advance warning that you are going to blow the heads of the motor is a nice feature.

I guess there are a few prevenative maint measures to make sure that pump keeps going, I'll take a look into it.

[Capt. Bob]

I guess there are a few preventative maint measures to make sure that pump keeps going, I'll take a look into it.

This is a good link to get you up to speed on the basic concepts. Read entire thread.
http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-for ... blems.html

It also illustrates why many of us use THT for issues like this and reinforces its ability to provide excellent information as well as the usual "entertainment factor".

[Fletch170]

Good Stuff! I learned a few things there!

Reminds me of when an un-named boat company wired the wrong oil tanks to the wrong motors. (Owned a dealership back in the day) 2 HPDI yamis, added oil to the port tank, then flipped on the ignition to the port motor, which was supposed to fill  the tank on the motor. No oil. After about 4 hours of troubleshooting everything under the sun.....I see an oil slick. WHA? How???? There isn'y any oil! I look around the transom......it's coming from the starboard motor. I take off the cowl and there is oil everywhere, overflowing from the tank.

Basically, the sensor was hooked up to the correct tank from the correct motor, but the fill line went to the wrong motor. The port motor sensed there was no oil and kept on pumping. WHAT A MESS.

[Fletch170]

Hey all! I finally did it, I got the motor!

1999 Yamaha 115, with all rigging, guages, oil tank, etc. Did a compression check, it rang up 130 PSI on the dot on all 4, and she ran perfectly, not so much as a cough or sputter. I feel like for 2 grand, I got myself a deal.

So, after my excitement, I went to check the stringers for water as suggested by several members. As suspected, it's nice and wet. That's ok, It's going to be easier to cut off the tops of the stringers than chip off the outrageous amount of adhesive anyway. I've decided to do a few things as well.

I'm going to raise the deck and scuppers, and get rid of the rigging and rear trough. I didnt like them to begin with, and I feel as though it's more of a pain to keep them.

I plan to use the coffin box and simply tab it to the stringers, then lay the ply over it.

Finally, in the pictures you will see the center stringer, which is also pretty water logged. I was thinking of just removing the last 3 feet, and laying another layer of 1708 on the hull. I want to then glass in a flat mount for my new bildge pump. I've seen people remove the center stringer before, so I should be ok, right?

Here are some pictures, let me know what you guys think!

http://fletch170.blogspot.com/

[Capt Matt]

Nice work and congrats on the new motor, that isone of the most reliable yamaha's ever made.
No problem removing the middle stringer, it looks like its only 3/4 inch ply anyway.
Is the coffin box where the fuel tank goes? do you have a new tank and how do you plan on keeping it up from the bottom of the hull?
Capt Matt