insatl. of trim tabs on a 222ccp?

[saltfly]

thanks tom. After I mock it up I'll have a better idea of what I will need to do.

[seabob4]

I think you guys will get it figured out.  I'm happy at my end...  

[saltfly]

Well my M120 tabs ,came in today. Soooo I'm going to start installation tomorrow. So I’ll soon find out if they will hit my drain hole in the splash well . When I did the mockup. It looked close.  I’m going to look at moving them in a little more like capt. Bob. If I just can’t make them work. Were I want them. But I do not want the hoses in my splash well. They may end up closer to the chime then 3 inches. If that is the only way to keep them under deck. Also their is one part that I can't make heads or tails on. Its a small part that was packed under the pump cover and fall out during unpacking. It looks like a plastic plunger. anyone know what the hell it is?

[Capt. Bob]

Its a small part that was packed under the pump cover and fall out during unpacking. It looks like a plastic plunger. anyone know what the hell it is?

Oil fill stopper ("filler plug") on the pump.
http://www.bennetttrimtabs.com/parts.php?cID=7

Kinda hard to see but look just above part #3 in the exploded diagram

[Tabman]

Saltfly,

Yup, it's the filler plug.

Keep in mind we can make the actuators 1" shorter or swap them for longer ones if that makes positioning the Trim Tabs on the transom any easier.

Tom
Bennett Marine

[saltfly]

Thanks guys. I'll have more time to look at it to day. Then I should be able to see were it goes back in place. I'm going to use a jack to hold a 2 x 4 up under the boat bottom with a 1/4 inch spacer at the transom and a 5/8 spacer at the back edge of the tab. Then I can put the actuator in place and stand back to look at what I have. I'm not drill any holes till I'm happy with the placement. Where to put the pump is still going to be a problem. Its a long run from the port side to the console. not sure their is enough hose to reach that far. But getting the tabs and actuators in place. Is the first thing on the list. I also have to remove the swim ladder and fill the holes on the port side. I'll put it back on this winter, not going to worry about that till then. I want to have every thing done on the tabs by the end of the week end. I've got to get back out. We where getting Mahi, amber jack and had cobia in the chum line only a few miles off shore and the water temp is starting to drop. Sooo they won't be there much longer. For us fly fishers. Having them that close is a big plus.

[Capt. Bob]

Salt,
I'm sorry I don't have pics of my install on the CCP. I did however locate the pump in the console. As my earlier photo shows, the tabs could have been mounted out closer to the chine but I was dealing with the full bracket. There was however enough tubing supplied to place the pump in the console. The thought is to keep the tube lengths about equal to balance the tab operation. With that thought, I cut the supplied tube in half and it was enough to reach the console. I mounted the pump on top of the factory tackle box and had room to put a large, smooth radius bend in the lines from there, back through the rigging hole under the console.

When I moved the tabs to my WAC, I was able to locate them properly for maximum performance. Problem now is, they work too well and I'm having to "relearn" their positioning relative to the WAC. This sensitivity in smoother sea conditions now relates to better performance in heavier seas. This is welcomed, especially since my driving position is now moved forward so......

Position those babies as far out as you can (and keep your clearances) from the center line of the hull to get your best bang for your buck.

Good luck.

[saltfly]

Hey capt. bob. I just finished blocking them up. To keep the actuator hose, inside the bilge. I will just hit the inside of the vertical splash well wall with the drill side, and this will work. But my tabs will be 2" from the chime. I hope this will be ok. Because I would have to be 8" from the center line, to get the hose under the splash well. and that would be a waste to me. Tom if you are on. Is that acceptable for good performance ?

[Tabman]

Saltfly,

2" from the chine is OK and far better than having them way inboard.  

Tom
Bennett Marine

[saltfly]

Thanks tom I just took some pic’s and I’m going to post them  in a few min’s.

[seabob4]

Walt,
I had a situation on Aaron's 200 where the hyd lines came out inside the console right at the entrance, that was all the line Aaron had.  I picked up a couple of 1/4" ID compression nuts and unions, and had some of the exact same line leftover from a Power Pole install.  Lengthened the lines with the couplings, worked out great...

[saltfly]

Here are the pic's of how they sit. bob that's what I may have to do. I like that location.

[seabob4]

I'd run with it!  Ideally, I'd move them inboard so that the outboard edge of the tab is at the chine/hull bottom radius, but then we know where that puts the actuator...

[saltfly]

ya Bob I should have posted some pic's sooner. But you can see, the actuator would fall right on top of the drain hole. I could go with the shorter one. But I want to get this done and I hope it won't be to long before I close in the transom and add a bracket. After I do that It won't make a difference. I'll just fill the holes and move the tabs in.

[seabob4]

ya Bob I should have posted some pic's sooner. But you can see, the actuator would fall right on top of the drain hole. I could go with the shorter one. But I want to get this done and I hope it won't be to long before I close in the transom and add a bracket. After I do that It won't make a difference. I'll just fill the holes and move the tabs in.

Fiberglass and gelcoat are repairable...