1980 200 CCP

[WannabeDeepSea]

I'll make it a priority to post some pics tonight.  The pic above is almost a spittin image of mine...except I left the deck drain lips and have cut out the bathtub in the back.  Oh and right now my stringers are cut wide open and half full of foam.

[saltfly]

If what I’m seeing on my deck is right. I should have only the last or first layer. Depending on how you look at it left. So you should not see the stringers. Only the layer of glass bonded to the stringers. My deck cross section. Looks like a sandwich. Glass, wood then glass. At least that’s what it looks like were the hatches are. you guys that have taken yours apart, know more then I do in that department.

[WannabeDeepSea]

Deconstruction is mostly over, here are some pics...construction(foam first) has begun.





In this pic you can see an old deck repair with storage added, but no drains...there were 40-50 gallons in each of the two front compartments they added.  The main culprit to wet wood.






35lb anchor lost under fuel coffin for years








ready for some cutting, grinding, and glassing(and more itching)

[RickK]

Lots of progress  

[gran398]

Looking good! I haven't seen my neighbor to ask him his thoughts on the respirator, but I will.

That anchor pic is great!

 

[WannabeDeepSea]

OK, I trimmed all the foam.  I air chiseled the putty off the edges of the stringers and started grinding.  I have mat, woven, and 1708.  I am not sure what would be the easiest, most cost effective, and best to cap the stringers with.  Also...was thinking I should use two layers, one 8-10" laid and one 12" on top of it...will that be enough?


Oh and are there any unwritten pointers to grinding for prep?  This is my first dance with fiberglass and already ground through one wall of the first stringer I was grinding...just a little but it happened just the same.

Thanks!

[gran398]

Wanna,

You are getting a good job thus far. When it comes to the re-glass...just make sure everything is clean and dry.

And if you grind through the stringer sides where they're questionable/thin...so what. Needed to be added to anyway.

Regarding your specific rebuild...am pretty familiar with the 70's models...but the CCP rebuild aspects, and later models...that's where Captain Bob, Gone Fission, JDupree, and other CCP owners can best advise.

This will be good...been awhile since we've seen one torn down.

KM tourney fished an 80's 22-2 in the early 90's. The captain knew the stringers were broken/delammed at the transom when he bought it cheap.

We fished it anyway for three seasons...they're pretty damn stout.

Regarding the glass layup....we're blessed to have great experience here. Am sure they'll best advise when you near that point.

[WannabeDeepSea]

Capped the stringers today:  4" 1.5 Mat, 8" 1708, 10" 1708.

Happy with my new found glassing skills...pics to come.

[WannabeDeepSea]

OK have a question.  I got a new tank in the mail this past week.  I opted for a 63 gal poly. Does it have to be mounted inside a "coffin"?  

I was planning to mount it centerline on an encapsulated plywood "shelf" with 6" lips at each end to keep it in place, leaving an inch or so of "expansion play" all the way around it.  The ply shelf would be glassed to the stringers the entire length on each side.   Then run one aluminum strap over it.  

Ideas?

Thanks!

[slvrlng]

On one that size I would try to use 2 straps. I wish I would have noticed your location last week, I stayed on 204 at 95 and was in Hinesville training students at Savannah Tech. I would have liked to see your hull. I hope to be back there in a couple of weeks, maybe we can work something out at that time.
Back to the tank, where are the fill and pickup lines on the tank? I would worry more about the poly "swell" on the top of the tank. Make sure you seat the shelf low enough that it can never be hit by the hatch cover or deck.

[WannabeDeepSea]

On one that size I would try to use 2 straps. I wish I would have noticed your location last week, I stayed on 204 at 95 and was in Hinesville training students at Savannah Tech. I would have liked to see your hull. I hope to be back there in a couple of weeks, maybe we can work something out at that time.

Just lemme know, I'm here unless I'm hunting, working, or @ cub scouts with my boys.

Back to the tank, where are the fill and pickup lines on the tank? I would worry more about the poly "swell" on the top of the tank. Make sure you seat the shelf low enough that it can never be hit by the hatch cover or deck.

Its rectangular 23" wide by 14" deep and 70" or so long. The fill line will be just fore of mid ship, the pickup will be just aft and below the leaning post(I think) hehe.  Part of the reason I want to do away with the coffin is because I can actually lower the tank 4-5 inches using the method I outlined above.  Then I can install an access panel if I ever need to access or remove the tank.

[Capt. Bob]

OK have a question.  I got a new tank in the mail this past week.  I opted for a 63 gal poly. Does it have to be mounted inside a "coffin"?  

The short answer is no.
That stated, the coffin/tub acts to isolate the tank from the center line of the keel and allow water to traverse from the bow to the stern where it can be removed via the drain plug or a pump. It also has an added benefit of capturing fuel from a leak in the tank and preventing it from entering the bilge but...
It can also trap water that enters from above through a poorly installed/sealed hatch or access plates not to mention the possibility of it retaining small amounts of moisture from tank condensation. In your case though, you are using a poly tank so the moisture retention problems are greatly (if not completely) reduced and you could always drill a relief (drain) hole in the coffin.

I was planning to mount it centerline on an encapsulated plywood "shelf" with 6" lips at each end to keep it in place, leaving an inch or so of "expansion play" all the way around it.  The ply shelf would be glassed to the stringers the entire length on each side.  
Ideas?
Thanks!

This is the way my WAC is set up and I think it would work for you. Remember that you will need to allow a route for the water to move front to back (under the shelf). Personally, if I were using this method, I would bulkhead each end of the tank (basically creating with the shelf, another "coffin") and convey the water through a 2" pvc pipe. Since you're using poly for the tank, it may be overkill but still, I prefer my tank area as dry as possible. If lowering the tank helps with your rebuild, why not?

Good luck.

[flounderpounder225]

Deconstruction is mostly over, here are some pics...construction(foam first) has begun.





In this pic you can see an old deck repair with storage added, but no drains...there were 40-50 gallons in each of the two front compartments they added.  The main culprit to wet wood.






35lb anchor lost under fuel coffin for years








ready for some cutting, grinding, and glassing(and more itching)

A little Naval Jelly, and that anchor will be as good as new   That was the PO's spare???

[WannabeDeepSea]

That was the PO's spare???

Dunno, it had been stuck under the gas tank coffin for a while.

[SunnyD]

Hey guys, I happen to be at the same step in my restore on my '71 170.  Concerning the poly tank minus the coffin, I spoke to a local glass guy and he suggested something similar.  A 2" pvc cut in half and glassed to the centerline to allow water flow.  This should allow for any expandsion of the tank below to the sides.  My question is: If I tabbed in bulkheads fore and aft of the tank (snugly), during operation, does anyone think this may create a problem with compression of the tank?  There is plenty of space above and this would allow breathing/expanding of the tank.