The last two feet or so(nearest the transom) is still there. I wanted to ask if it was possible to access the foam here by removing the sides of the stringers?
OK, I am in the middle of replacing the foam with 4lb us composites poly. I plan to raise the stringers 3/4 to 1" and set the new core(greenwood plydek) on top of the lip I left. I have started grinding(and itching) and am stuck wondering how many inches up do I need to grind in order to tape(tab) the new deck to the lip and cap. First, I would not replace the foam under the deck - leave that area open and you will be better off. You can use if for stowage or whatever, but refoaming just traps moisture under the decking. Actually, using a saw and putting the new deck on top of the old deck "tab" works pretty well on CCPs. A CCP has a full liner and is different from the Osprey versions. You will want to add enough spacer on top of the stringers to meet the new deck height. Regardign greenwood - be careful with that! Epoxy/resin will not bond with some treated or coated wood - you don't want a near term delam! I am also wondering(and I need to attach some pics) about a "plug" the previous owner put in a thru hull. It is a full repair on the outer. It appears to be a wooden plug(dowel?) used as a core on the inner. The wood seems ok, but unsealed. Should I grind it and glass over it? Yes, remove the plug and either put in a proper thru-hull or fill it and glass over it. The thru hull for the scuppers and deck drain also have wood backing that is bare, should I grind these out and glass those spots as well?Good plan - get rid of bare wood anywhere you find it. You only have access to some of these areas now - it will be a bugger later - so a little work now could save a ton of frustration later! I have a hundred(exaggerating a bit) of other questions but need to have a little patience(and of course some pics) before I ask any more.Oh, one more question tonight, I sweat a lot. Is there a respirator that works ok and doesn't clog with sweat? "I am having a hell of a time trying to breathe through all of the moisture.What kind o respirator are you using? For fiberglass dust you can use a cloth/fiber M95 thatwith a vent port that is pretty comfortable. You don't need a plastic half-face unless you are using solvents. Thanks!
I agree with gran. Never leave old rotted wood, it will bit you later. I’m going to rebuild my deck this winter. Since I did a core simple on my stringers at the transoms. I don’t have a problem their. So I ‘m going to try something different. I’m going to cut out the top glass and remove it as one piece. Then dig out the rotted wood. Which on my boat won’t be hard, since its all rotted. That will leave the under layer of glass. I then am going to sand that layer and coat with epoxy to seal. Then resand and add a layer of glass. Then add what ever matl. I decide to use. Then add a layer of glass and the old top layer. That will leave me with original glass deck. Then I will only have to deal with the joint at the gunnels. Then paint. Which will give me the final seal. I see know reason why it won't work. But I have the time to try somthing different. That's what so great about being RETIRED.
Hi Saltfly,So do I understand that you are saying you are going to attempt to remove the entire original inner liner as an assembly; recore, reglass and reassemble basically the way it was built originally? If so, you are going to have to cut the adhesive line that bonded the floor to the top of the stringers to pull it out. Bravo! I've been waiting to see if this could be done!
