Trim Tabs

[seabob4]

Gee, Tom, who needs a pic when you have them all?   That would be the Explorer/Osprey bottom...

[Tabman]

Gee, Tom, who needs a pic when you have them all?   That would be the Explorer/Osprey bottom...

Google is my best friend  8)

[225Explor]

Tom, yes that appears to be the same type of tab pocket on my 225 Explor........I will measure my pockets and give you those numbers as soon as I get to my boat......Is that a 225 Explor in the picture ??

Thanks for everyones help so far, just making sure I get the correct size.

[Tabman]

I am pretty sure it's a 225, that's what the info said!

If it looks anything like this, based on the 12 x 9 that is in the picture, the M120s will fit just great.

Tom
Bennett Marine

[seabob4]

Yeah, Tom, you just googled further than I did...

The 225 and the 245/250 have the same pockets, so the tabs will be the same.  God knows I installed enough of them, it was just that the last set I installed on an Osprey/Explorer was probably 13 years ago...

[Circle Hooked]

Do the pockets look like this?



The Trim Tab in the photo is a 12 x 9.  If it were my boat I would put the M120s in the same place, but just a bit further inboard so the Trim Tab starts where the chine flat ends.

Tom
Bennett Marine

That looks like my setup,problem is you can't move the tab farther inboard because that pocket gets smaller and you couldn't mount the acuator without bending it back out ward.

[Tabman]

The M120 is 10" on the transom vs. the 12" on the one in the picture, plus the actuator (ram) is 2" shorter so it should fit right at the chine flat.

Tom
Bennett Marine

[Mcdiver]

I have a 200ccp, and i am looking for a set as well.  What size would work for my boat?  And if anyone knows off hand, how many wires need to be run from the switches to the motor?  What amperage does the motor pull?  And does the count include the main power wire?  When I go in to fix the leaky thru hull fitting, I want to pull and set up the wiring for when I save up to buy the tabs!

[225Explor]

I am pretty sure it's a 225, that's what the info said!

If it looks anything like this, based on the 12 x 9 that is in the picture, the M120s will fit just great.

Tom
Bennett Marine

Thanks Tom, looking forward to getting my M120's

Mike R

[Circle Hooked]

The M120 is 10" on the transom vs. the 12" on the one in the picture, plus the actuator (ram) is 2" shorter so it should fit right at the chine flat.

Tom
Bennett Marine

Oh ok,that would work,i thought i might be missing something,thanks Tom.

[225Explor]

For those that keep their boats in the water, do you paint(bottom paint) your tabs and actuators.......does it affect their performance or functions ??

[seabob4]

I have a 200ccp, and i am looking for a set as well.  What size would work for my boat?  And if anyone knows off hand, how many wires need to be run from the switches to the motor?  What amperage does the motor pull?  And does the count include the main power wire?  When I go in to fix the leaky thru hull fitting, I want to pull and set up the wiring for when I save up to buy the tabs!

This is the way Bennett tabs are wired...

The HPU (pump) has a 4-pin flat connector coming off it, as well a 16GA ground wire off the back side of the pump.  If the pump is to mounted at the transom, ground that either to a ground bus or the batt.  The Bennett kit comes with about a 25' harness that simply plugs into the 4-pin off the HPU.  Run that forward to the helm, where it plugs into a mating connector off the switch.  The switch has an orange power wire protected by a 20A fuse, I wire it to a switched source.

Simple as that.  Fill the reservoir in the pump on the bench before you install it (makes spills that much easier to deal with), standard ATF will do.  Connect your hoses, starboard to the "S" fitting on the pump, port to "P".  Cycle the tabs a couple of times, check your fluid level at the pump, top off to the line, you're good to go...

[seabob4]

For those that keep their boats in the water, do you paint(bottom paint) your tabs and actuators.......does it affect their performance or functions ??

Paint the tab, you can paint the actuator as it won't hurt it, but it doesn't need paint, the actuators are a Nylon composite material, non-reactive in any kind of water.

If you have zincs on your tabs, DO NOT paint them!

[seabob4]

A little trick on installing the pump bracket.  On the bottom 2 screws, get them tight, but NOT too tight.  The top 2 screws, leave them a little loose.  The pump won't bounce out due to the design of the bracket regardless of the seas, yet lifting it out to deal with the solenoids or whatever is a piece of cake...

Tom probably won't "approve" of this method, but I've installed hundreds of Bennett systems at many different companies, we all do this...

[Tabman]

I have a 200ccp, and i am looking for a set as well.  What size would work for my boat?  And if anyone knows off hand, how many wires need to be run from the switches to the motor?  What amperage does the motor pull?  And does the count include the main power wire?  When I go in to fix the leaky thru hull fitting, I want to pull and set up the wiring for when I save up to buy the tabs!

Seabob nailed most of your questions.

The motor is fused at 20 amps and draws maybe 15-16 amps Tops in-rush current.   I would choose the M120s for your 200cp.  I had the M120s on my old Aquasport 20 WA and they were perfect.  

Tom
Bennett Marine