Osprey 225 Wiring - Newbie to this stuff.

[miamiguy]

kinda hard to see from the pics but it looks like 2 pumps in there,the loose  "free" one in the first pic and the mounted red one in the second,perhaps thr PO replaced the fishbox pumpout with a bilge pump,either way there is work to be done in there,good luck,take it one step at a time,get a multi meter and figure out what switch controls what

Thanks,
I did that yesterday when I untangled the mess. :pirat:

I have one dinky little Rule 500 Bilge pump left in there with a floater, I'm planning on putting a 1500/2000 gallon pump in there as a main one.

From the console switch I have a brown wire for the bilge pump +, and a black wire for the -, I have a brown/red stripe wire that doesnt seem to do anything.. anyone know what that may have been for?  (edit: the picture of the manual on page 1 of the comments says its for automatic bilge?  But my switch on the console is either on/off..)

[seabob4]

kinda hard to see from the pics but it looks like 2 pumps in there,the loose  "free" one in the first pic and the mounted red one in the second,perhaps thr PO replaced the fishbox pumpout with a bilge pump,either way there is work to be done in there,good luck,take it one step at a time,get a multi meter and figure out what switch controls what

Thanks,
I did that yesterday when I untangled the mess. :pirat:

I have one dinky little Rule 500 Bilge pump left in there with a floater, I'm planning on putting a 1500/2000 gallon pump in there as a main one.

From the console switch I have a brown wire for the bilge pump +, and a black wire for the -, I have a brown/red stripe wire that doesnt seem to do anything.. anyone know what that may have been for?  (edit: the picture of the manual on page 1 of the comments says its for automatic bilge?  But my switch on the console is either on/off..)

The brown w/red stripe is for the constant hot lead to the float...

[miamiguy]

Pete, I had a question for you, I sent you a pm :)

[pete]

[miamiguy]

Thanks Pete!

SeaBob, so that being said if its getting no voltage, can I presume its because the transom fuse box doesnt have a fuse for aft bilge in it? or would that not matter in this case?

EDIT: seems that is the case, I followed the wire to the fuseless box.  Got new fuse holders and fuses to install, so will test it out after.

[skyliner4444]

I'm also doing a rewire job; my 2004 215 DC. Mine has a lot of corrossion too, although it was allegedly dunked. I decided to run all new Ancor 14/2 throughout.
Get a label maker and label every wire and cable you're redoing or tracing. I picked up a RhinoPro 1000 Label Printer on Amazon for about $35 and it's worth it's weight in gold.

Here's a link to the wiring #'s and color codes from the Wellcraft site. (bottom of list) I'm continually referring to this.

http://wellcraft.com/index.php/resources/manuals

[seabob4]

Sky,
While Ancor 14/2 jacketed will certainly not hurt, what I am assuming is that the individual wires are red and black, maybe yellow and black.  This coloring does not follow marine color coding guidelines per ABYC, and can make trouble-shooting down the road a bit of a PITA.  When one is faced with a number of red wires, and you're trying to figure out which one is a pump wire (brown), it can be very frustrating...

Just saying...

[skyliner4444]

My original intention was to run the ABYC color coded wires through flexible conduit under the gunnels. Limited access there caused me to go the jacketed 14/2 red and yellow route because of it's durability when fishing cables from one end of the boat to the other. Unfortunately, since the 14/2 doesn't come in all the colors (I did use correct 14/3 for bilge pump), I'll be splicing in the 2 multi-pin plug connectors at the helm (they look nice and clean at that end, no corrosion) and label everything on both ends. The harnesses to the engine; tach, ignition, etc. at this point seem to be fine. So no, not the ideal way I wanted, but should suffice.
I'm open to any ideas and suggestions. Thanks!

[miamiguy]

Bob, should there be a power wire linking the daisy chained fuses to the 40a breaker? Otherwise the bilge fuses only have power when battery switches are on.

[skyliner4444]

Yes. I have a similar setup as yours. Red #12 power from breaker to helm. Here's a pic of what mine looked like before ripping out as it was all totally corroded. Battery to switch, to black breaker box, to helm.

[miamiguy]

Thanks sky, but i was talking about inside the fuse box.  Without a connecting wire from the 40a breaker to the smaller bilge/stereo fuses, those fuses only have power when the battery swiitches are on.

[skyliner4444]

Here's a couple of pics. Jumpers are used. In my case; helm to entry lights, entry lights to auto bilge.

[seabob4]

Miami, Sky,
Assuming you guys have the same fuse box, you have to understand that 2 of the fuse holders, stereo (which is stereo memory) and the auto float need to have a separate feed coming off either batt 1 or 2 on the batt switch, as these are constant hot.  They do not get their feeds from the 40A breaker.  The other 2 will get their feeds from the 40A, as they are switched power...

Sorry for the reference to fuse holders.  Up until 2000, when I left, WC/AS was still using fuses...

[miamiguy]

Miami, Sky,
Assuming you guys have the same fuse box, you have to understand that 2 of the fuse holders, stereo (which is stereo memory) and the auto float need to have a separate feed coming off either batt 1 or 2 on the batt switch, as these are constant hot.  They do not get their feeds from the 40A breaker.  The other 2 will get their feeds from the 40A, as they are switched power...

Sorry for the reference to fuse holders.  Up until 2000, when I left, WC/AS was still using fuses...

Bob, we don't.  I rebuilt mine using 3 new fuse holders and a new 40a klixon breaker just like the orginal box had. (Using your j-box idea).  It seems like the previous owner must have removed a wire from the fuse holders (which are daisy chained), to link them directly to the constant power.  As the only time they are hot is when the battery switch is turned on.  Also there is not a ground in the box is that normal?

Thanks for your help guys!

[seabob4]

Bob, we don't.  I rebuilt mine using 3 new fuse holders and a new 40a klixon breaker just like the orginal box had. (Using your j-box idea).  It seems like the previous owner must have removed a wire from the fuse holders (which are daisy chained), to link them directly to the constant power.  As the only time they are hot is when the battery switch is turned on.  Also there is not a ground in the box is that normal?

Thanks for your help guys!

Miami,
"Constant Hot" means that the leads are always hot, regardless of batt switch position.  This is because, 1) when the boat is unattended and the batt switch "Off", the float can turn on the bilge pump when necessary, and 2) for the stereo memory, this way you don't lose the clock or the station presets when you turn the batt switch off.  "Switched Hot" means that when you turn the battery switch off, the circuit no longer has power...

Now, as far as a ground, keep this in mind.  Switches and fuses/breakers are simply interruptions in a circuit, the same as if you cut the 12V+ lead, the appliance won't work.  Touch the 2 ends together, the appliance works.  Thus, YOU become the switch, the fuse, the breaker.  Any grounds involved?  No, except from the appliance to ground...