Osprey 225 Wiring - Newbie to this stuff.

[seabob4]

I was tempted to stay out of this (other than my brief comment earlier!), but I have never seen an Osprey backend in such a state of utter wiring confusion!

For me to re-wire would be around $1200, but she would be BETTER than new.  But, since the funds are limited, this is what I would do.  First things first, remove the frame of the tackle center/access door and swing it out of the way towards the livewell.  This gives you quite a bit more working room.  

Second, try and isolate the "Main Accerssory Harness".  This is what many call the "hull" harness, and, as it exits the rigging tube, it branches off 2 directions.  The lower branch runs down to the battery board, has the leads for the bilge pump, the fishbox pump, and the washdown/livewell pump.  The second branch runs along the starboard stringer then upward to the transom wall, it has the ground bus bar (yours looks miserable!), as well as the fused leads and the main feed to the helm.  Disconnect all the rest of the crap so that you are left with what I just described. What I would do is pull all the disconnected leads through the opening to starboard and tie them off to keep them out of your way.  Now you have a little less clutter in your field of view, a little more of an idea of what you have...

Next, since you're not really wanting to rewire, I would cut all the grounds where they branch out of the harness and splice in new wire.  I can almost guaranty you there is corrosion (black) all the way to the helm, but at least you'll be getting rid of the worst of it.  Here's a quick, simple drawing I did to give you an idea as to how I wired Osprey backends.  



If you can get back to this, more or less, basic configuration, then you can start adding back in the wiring that you disconnected and neaten as you go.

So, how does your helm look?  BTW, as McDiver said, use adhesive-lined shrink terminals.  I get mine from genuinedealz.  BTW, your backend, well, I've dealt with worse, except at the helm...


Pathfinder 22.  She went home looking like this...


Sure you don't want to drop your girl off for a week or two?

[gran398]

That's awesome...

Miami, its $1200.00, which is good money...but look at it like this.

Its peace of mind for you and your crew. And in the scheme of things...1200 bucks is a crappy weekend somewhere. Just something to chew on.

[seabob4]

Forgot to mention, $1200 does NOT include materials.  Typically, for a 22 footer, new wiring and terminations, bus bars, etc. will run between $400-$500.  That is if the batts stay in the back end.  If they are moved to the console, requiring an upgrade to 2GA cable, add in another $200.  

But I make $0 off the materials...

[Mcdiver]

real nice work bob!  Its great to see someone else that takes pride in their work.

[seabob4]

real nice work bob!  Its great to see someone else that takes pride in their work.

Thank you sir!  It's my business, I enjoy it, and it allows me to give my customers, regardless of boat make, the best that they can get, budget constraints and all.  I'm quite blessed to be able to do what I like, and make a living at it...

[gran398]

Miami, forgot to mention that your expenditure will directly affect resale value, and make it much easier to sell the boat when the time comes. And when they see the new wiring job, they naturally will assume that the balance of the boat has been maintained to high standards.

There are glowing testimonies to Seabob's work available for your perusal on the internet.

I do not have an affiliation with Seabob Marine Enterprises, nor do I own stock in the company.

 

[seabob4]

I do not have an affiliation with Seabob Marine Enterprises, nor do I own stock in the company.

 

Stock trading will be sharply up tomorrow...OOOPS!  Memorial Day! :tongue:  :tongue:

[miamiguy]

Bob, is the wiring in the rigging tube zip tied together like the wiring aft and in the helm?  Or will I be able to pull them through one at a time, once I unbundle them, if I replace them?

Thanks for your help! :)

[seabob4]

Bob, is the wiring in the rigging tube zip tied together like the wiring aft and in the helm?  Or will I be able to pull them through one at a time, once I unbundle them, if I replace them?

Thanks for your help! :)

No ty-wraps...but electrical tape!  The main harness is taped every 18" or so until it exits the rigging tube.  Soooo, in answer to your question, no, you won't be able to pull the wires out one by one.  However, the main harness, the engine harness, and the steering hoses and control cables are not taped nor ty-wrapped together...

[miamiguy]

Started sorting out the bundle of wire in the transom today.



found the above loose in the bilge with thier wires in the bundle disconnected..

2 bilge pumps, 2 floaters, and a mount that fits neither of them.  I wonder if I have a 3rd one in there loose.


Also got a voltage meter, and have found out which of the free wires in the bilge/transom connect to what switch on the console.. (mostly bilge pump and live well wires) which would explain the above.

[pete]

Miami,Here are some pics from my bilge area,this is pretty much how it came from the factory,if you put in a pie plate hatch in your fish box it will give you better acsess to the bilge area,

[miamiguy]

Thanks pete! Thats exactly the setup in the fish box i have.  Do you have two bilge pumps in there or one? I've got a extra hose connected to a drainage hole.

[pete]

Right now,one bilge pump,thats factory,looks like the second one was added as a safety feature.What I plan on doing is hooking a second pump direct to the batts thru a float switch as a back up to the main,nice thing about it ,no neen to run wiring to the console and when the batt switch is off,no battery drain.You can do yours the same or plug thru hull till needed.

[Circle Hooked]

Pete i may be wrong but i only see 1 pump in those pics,the white box is a float switch for the bilge pump.

Miami i think your other drain hose is for he fish box pump out,if it goes to the port side of the boat thats what it is.

[pete]

kinda hard to see from the pics but it looks like 2 pumps in there,the loose  "free" one in the first pic and the mounted red one in the second,perhaps thr PO replaced the fishbox pumpout with a bilge pump,either way there is work to be done in there,good luck,take it one step at a time,get a multi meter and figure out what switch controls what