Advise wanted on laying the final layer of glass on the deck

[kedd]

Hi All,

I'm at the stage in my rebuild of laying down the final layer of glass on the deck.
I would like to know what methods others have used.

I will be using vinylester resin at 70-80 degrees indoors.


Kedd

[LilRichard]

Please be more specific... and include pics.  Sorry, this is just a very vague question.

[kedd]

LilRichard,
Sorry for being vague, and here is a pic.


I would like to know where and what direction others places their seams.
Also, was the deck done in one shot or one side cure sand and glass the other?

I don't think I can reach all areas I need to glass from outside the boat if I tried one shot.




Kedd

[dirtwheelsfl]

i would chalk a centerline right down the middle and overlap that a couple inches with your first layer and run your tabs to the hullside with that one continuous piece. then overlap your next one a couple inches over the other sid eof that centerline. do one side at a time so youve got somewhere to work from then all youve gotta grind is that 4 inches of glass before you do the other side. if you can, run another 10" or so tab to the hullsides all wet on wet when you do the big piece thatll save alot of grinding too but its hard to get it all by yourself at once. id grind to bare glass at least 6" up the hullsides to tab into also. what kind of glass you using?

[kedd]

Sounds about what I was thinking.
I was also thinking of laying a working platform across the boat to glass from.
I could do it all wet on wet but I think resin kick off time would be a factor.
I figured I'm in for more grinding, oh well it will end soon.  LOL
I wasn't going to go 10" up the side wall I was going to do about 5" with the tabs.

I will be using 1708 for the glass.

Kedd

[LilRichard]

I did it all in one shot.  The key is prep: measure and cut all your glass, label it well, and let 'er rip.  I used big pieces that went perpendicular to the hull line, from hullside to hullside.  Lay one layer down, let it kick, and come back with a second within the day so you don't have to grind.  I used two layers of 1808.

[LilRichard]

Now that I look back, I may have used 3 layers of 1808 - but that seems like a lot in retrospect.

[kedd]

Lil Richard

How far up did up the sidewall did u tab?
If I go perpendicular I can do it in one shot.
Did use unwaxed resin for the first layer so u could go back the next dat with the second layer?

I have one layer of 1708 top and bottom of each panel.
Do u think one more and layer of 1708 and two layers of tabs up the side will be good?


Kedd

[LilRichard]

Well let's be clear, I had already tabbed my panels together with (bad memory) either one or two strips of glass.  You want to make sure your floor seams are well joined.  Assuming you have one layer of 1808 already, and the seams have been tabbed, yeah, one more layer should be fine.  I would tab the floor to the hull with a few additional strips - I was using 2" overlap.  The floor / hullside joint will be a place where you get stress, so overlapping a little extra is a good thing.  

One more thought (unrelated) did you add any glass to your chines?  If not, DO IT NOW before you permanently secure your floor!  I saw another rebuild where the chines were stress cracking pretty badly.  I have had ZERO issues because I added extra glass.

[LilRichard]

Oh, and sorry, I never used waxed resin EVER.

[Capt Matt]

Is that 1708 going to be your finished deck? If so you will probably have to skim and fill it.
I laid one layer of 1708 which I have to still sand out any lumps etc then I'm going with one layer of 1oz mat over the bi-axle. Hopefully this will give me a smoother finish.
Your boat is looking good
Capt Matt

[LilRichard]

Is that 1708 going to be your finished deck? If so you will probably have to skim and fill it.
I laid one layer of 1708 which I have to still sand out any lumps etc then I'm going with one layer of 1oz mat over the bi-axle. Hopefully this will give me a smoother finish.
Your boat is looking good
Capt Matt

Yup, you're 100% correct - I assumed he was doing that for the next step.  I figured even with 1oz mat he'd still have to skim - or did you get to skip that step?  Maybe I should have done 1oz!

[kedd]

One more thought (unrelated) did you add any glass to your chines? If not, DO IT NOW before you permanently secure your floor! I saw another rebuild where the chines were stress cracking pretty badly. I have had ZERO issues because I added extra glass.

I did add glass to the chines, but they were in great shape.

I glassed yesterday as LilRichard said, I let it rip.
It went well, and yes I will have to figure what I want to do for a smooth finish.
I went with 3 tabs 1708 all around(staggered and skimmed for a better transition)  and 1708 for the main surface.

1oz may be the way to go as Capt Matt is going with.

Let the sanding begin



Kedd

[LilRichard]

What I did (and it may not be the ideal for you): I hit the floor with a grinder (like a 36 grit - it took the high spots off), then skimmed the whole thing with filler.  Here's a trick I learned from a local guy: you can add a little bit of resin to your polyester based fairing compound to make it easier to spread, and kick a little slower.  

Then I hit that with the orbital and the board sander, and repeat.  I did not get my floor perfect, because non skid will hide a lot of minor imperfections.

[kedd]

What I did (and it may not be the ideal for you): I hit the floor with a grinder (like a 36 grit - it took the high spots off), then skimmed the whole thing with filler.  Here's a trick I learned from a local guy: you can add a little bit of resin to your polyester based fairing compound to make it easier to spread, and kick a little slower.  

Then I hit that with the orbital and the board sander, and repeat.  I did not get my floor perfect, because non skid will hide a lot of minor imperfections.

What filler did you use and what ratio with the resin?
Did the resin have hardener in it before the mix?

Sounds like a good way to go.


Kedd