Re: 1971 Flatback in Boca

[wrightex]

Turned out to be a 1970 model. I'll get pics up soon.

[wrightex]

original?

[wrightex]

Partially enclosed transom....

[wrightex]

[wrightex]

OK, I'm not doing so good on photobucket, but I was able to get these pics up.
Anybody know if the bow light is original equipment?

[wrightex]

I am enclosing the transom on my 1970 22-2 and have aquired a Stainless Marine outboard bracket that I am thinking of using. The problem is it is too big. It's 36" long and pretty heavy.
I cant see hanging a 150 Yamaha 3' back off this boat. I have installed a 44 gal fuel tank underfloor, in front of console to help offset weight.
I was thinking of having it cut down but don't know all the pros/cons. Also thought about selling it and looking for something that's a better fit.
Any suggestions ?

[flounderpounder225]

I am sure more members will jump in on this, but I had a "stainless Marine" single engine full width platform bracket on my last boat, 22 Chris Craft WA, and it was great, they actually provide flotation, of course I am not sure of the ratio of flotation to it's weight add to the boat, is your 44 Gal tank that you added in addition to an original, or the only fuel tank on the boat?

[wrightex]

44 gal tank is only tank. Boat had original console with above floor plastic tanks. I will be installing new console, with 2 batteries inside and a t-top. That will give me some weight offset I think. Live well will be under leaning post, again trying to move weight forward.

[John Jones]

With a closed transom you will need at least 30" to be able to tilt the motor all the way.

[222 ccp dgraf]

brackets are a touchy subject on here so good luck. 36" is huge but if it offers floatation it should not be too bad. Biggest deal is what angle it was built at and if it matches the angle of the transome. ( so if its mounted to the boat is the swim platform level with the deck of the boat, meaning it was built at the angle of your transom). Its all a gamble till you put it in the water and see where your water line is and if your deck will drain or will you be standing in water with a few people in the boat. I run a 6" jack plate bracket (no floatation) which enables me to never have to lower my splash gate on my 222 ccp. I am in process now of moving fuel tank and console forward.

[beeermann65]

With a closed transom you will need at least 30" to be able to tilt the motor all the way.

I have a 19 inch bracket and no problems tilting the motor all the way up, 30 inches is a long way back there.

[wrightex]

I noticed LilRichard asked in another post if the builder had glassed the underside of his plywood floor before installation.

I am in the process of rebuilding a 1970 22-2 (remember "Flatback in Boca" from March?) and am just about to install the floor.
I'm using 3/4" marine plywood.

I read somewhere on this site ( I think) that one school of thought on a plywood floor was to not seal the bottom, seal the edges and any openings. Then, if and when any moisture got to the plywood, through screwholes, etc. it would be able to dry out and therefore not rot. I guess I should get a few more opinions. What do you guys think?

And before the beatings start about pics, I've been taking them. Just saving them for your christmas present. Not sure what year.

Thanks.

[bumpster]

I noticed LilRichard asked in another post if the builder had glassed the underside of his plywood floor before installation.

I am in the process of rebuilding a 1970 22-2 (remember "Flatback in Boca" from March?) and am just about to install the floor.
I'm using 3/4" marine plywood.

I read somewhere on this site ( I think) that one school of thought on a plywood floor was to not seal the bottom, seal the edges and any openings. Then, if and when any moisture got to the plywood, through screwholes, etc. it would be able to dry out and therefore not rot. I guess I should get a few more opinions. What do you guys think?

And before the beatings start about pics, I've been taking them. Just saving them for your christmas present. Not sure what year.

Thanks.

This would be a bad idea. The bilge is moisture heaven so if anything the open underside of your floor would act more as a sponge.

[John Jones]

Seal it.  Screw holes are no excuse.  Every screw and opening should be sealed as well.  Like said above, nothing exposed to the bilge is going to dry out.

[wrightex]

Part of the post I was talking about below.......

gran398   Post subject: Re: Have question on replacing original floorPosted: Thu Mar 11, 2010 10:48 pm  
 
Joined: Mon Nov 16, 2009 8:05 pm
Location: Wilmington, NC  Dbisc, you were given good advice by the old-timer. Bunch of folk believe, myself included, that breathability is better than full encapsulation. That is, to leave the bottom unsealed.

Might have some swellage, delamination on the plywood, but to me is better than rot. When you seal it up completely, then put a few screws in....forget the 5200, the water is getting in, especially on the aft deck where one side or the other will always hold a bit of water. But then the moisture is held in from the bottom. no dry-out. Heavy rot, quick rot. Six of one, half a dozen of the other.

I'd rather go natural on the underside, when using marine ply, or any other type of wood-derived deck material. Let the moisture have a place to go, with seepage and gravity, let it dry out. JMHO.

Dbisc, good post.