Miss Delmarva

[wingtime]

Good call Bob!  A wide spread is good for docking like Bob said, but the trade off is the further apart the worse your single engine performance will be due to adverse yaw.  So be sure to keep that in mind.

[Group W Bench]

Forget the measuring and just mount one engine off each transom bait box. It should be equivalent in strength to most rotted wood transoms anyways and you won't have to worry about scratching the black engine paint on the edge of the transom boxes. Docking and spinning should be a breeze. You don't have to go past idle speed to each chicken anyways.

[Skoot]

Damm she's is a sweet looking ride.  I just noticed the stainless trim on the inside of the gunwale cap,  Very nice touch!  

[gran398]

Hey thanks guys!

I'm liking Eugene's idea, except maybe kick it up a notch....

Sell the Mercs, and buy some of those electrical trolling motors, mount them on the back boxes...

Then on the open transom, set up a custom chicken fryer and 12V strawberry daiquiri machine  

[Group W Bench]

You forgot the waterslide from the top of the T-top like a houseboat. You will have to color coordinate the slide to match your canvas and livewell interior.

[gran398]

Oh hell yea now we're smokin'

A waterslide wouldn't be any good at all unless it were way up there....So we'll find two of those tarpon tower things like you boys like, put one on top of the other, have the whole enchilada about forty feet up, and get one of those big trumpet horns like Rodney Dangerfield had on his ride and make the bridges open on demand.

[Aswaff400]

so scott, got the motors hung yet?? the 13th is getting close!!

[gran398]

Good call Bob!  A wide spread is good for docking like Bob said, but the trade off is the further apart the worse your single engine performance will be due to adverse yaw.  So be sure to keep that in mind.

Farley's boat was factory rigged in '73 with twins, and will presume with the transom bait boxes. That 27 inches or thereabouts leaves just a hair per each motor so they won't touch the boxes.

So even if wanted to spread them a bit more, the boxes preclude it.

Chris was telling me about a formula used for hanging twins, relating to the most efficient area behind the boat for the wakes to intersect. Anyone familiar with this

[gran398]

so scott, got the motors hung yet?? the 13th is getting close!!

There isn't even a steering wheel

BTW, your new ride is deluxe

[seabob4]

Scott,
 I think you are looking at toe-out, not so much centers.

Here is a neat trick I learned from THT...yeah, THAT place.  With the help of a friend, get the boat to planing speed, then disconnect the tie bar from the port motor.  Accelerate to a decent cruise, where the port motor is in relation to starboard, is where they want to be.  Adjust the tie bar in or out (while maintaining said speed), and there you have your toe in or out, whichever it may be.

The hull, and how she rides, dictates where the the motors are hooked up....

[gran398]

Scott,
 I think you are looking at toe-out, not so much centers.

Here is a neat trick I learned from THT...yeah, THAT place.  With the help of a friend, get the boat to planing speed, then disconnect the tie bar from the port motor.  Accelerate to a decent cruise, where the port motor is in relation to starboard, is where they want to be.  Adjust the tie bar in or out (while maintaining said speed), and there you have your toe in or out, whichever it may be.

The hull, and how she rides, dictates where the the motors are hooked up....

Thanks

So as best I understand....you want the port motor set as neutral as possible with regard to torque, in relation to the starboard motor, correct?

[seabob4]

Scott,
When you let go of the wheel, with hydraulic steering, the boat, theoretically will track straight.  You want to do this on basically calm waters.  Both motors will follow the hull, and what it wants to do.  Given a evenly  weight distributed boat, the motors will settle into their groove...and that's where you attach the tie bar.

On 26" centers, I generally start with 1/2" toe out.  If you are at 26" at the forward ends, you want to be at 25 1/2" at the prop shafts.  Play with it, it's not a deal killer...

[gran398]

Scott,
When you let go of the wheel, with hydraulic steering, the boat, theoretically will track straight.  You want to do this on basically calm waters.  Both motors will follow the hull, and what it wants to do.  Given a evenly  weight distributed boat, the motors will settle into their groove...and that's where you attach the tie bar.

On 26" centers, I generally start with 1/2" toe out.  If you are at 26" at the forward ends, you want to be at 25 1/2" at the prop shafts.  Play with it, it's not a deal killer...

Bob, thanks bro.

Exactly the info needed

[seabob4]

Scotty,
In the grand scheme of things, your little 75s will be happy at 26", will give you many long years of service.  This ain't a Fountain, YF, or what ever, if you know what I mean...  

[gran398]

Looking good Scotty!  You sure those were not your nasty feet?  I see some funky foot prints on the deck! lol

Those must be prints of Chris's purty feetsies. He NEVER wears shoes, even in the winter.

And now his feet and feetprints will forever be immortalized in Cyberland