Need advise in building bulkheads and foaming correctly

[bumpster]

Maybe we can leave the wives and girlfriends out of the discussion. Really what are we talking about as far as standing water, 2 ozs? come on guys

[seabob4]

Hate to say it, but Stamas used the "split-pipe" back when I was there...but they were cheap bastards!

As has been said, even if you get the holes through the b/heads and the stringers as low as you can go, they are still not going to be at the lowest point they should be, and some water is simply never going to be able to be drained.

That being said, is it all that big of a deal?  The real key is to keep the larger objects, such as bit's of foam, leaves, TOOLS, etc., out of the compartments so that all the pipes are trying to do is drain water...

[RickK]

This is what shine is doing on his Seacraft. Wow split pipe. I just need to find my pipe splitter now!
Just scroll down and you can see how he tabbed the pipe in. Will never move again!

http://forums.bateau2.com/viewtopic.php ... 7&start=40

Seems that 1/2 pipe is for water to get from the front of the boat to the aft.  Nothing can get into the pipe except at the 2 ends.
If you're trying to give condensation a way to get out of "compartments" then you would want passage from each compartment to the next, not a solid 1/2 or full pipe running down the length of the boat.  What do they call those holes - "limber holes"?  Anyway, hopefully the only water that would need to be evacuated would be minimal, like from an anchor rode drying.  Some guys didn't foam at all and all the compartments are being used for something, like for scuba tank storage and such.  Now you definitely need the drainage there.
My $.02

[LilRichard]

That... looks... so... familiar?  



Even sealed compartments could get moisture in them, so I would suggest adding limber hulls to all bulkheads.  See here:



After the glass was dry the overlapping part was cleaned up...

[kedd]

Thanks for all the replies.
This site has been VERY helpful!!!

For the record I got lucky and the wife loves fishing and boating so budget is good. LOL
Heating a shop to 70 and keeping it there in 15-20 degree weather is what hurts the pocket book.  

The drainage is really the important thing and I know I'll never get all the water out.

This picture is just rough and bulkheads are not near finished and not all there.
There will be much more structure below the sole than original.

I would rather have no foam at all if  I can go that route and just have large limber holes.

Does foam really add that much more strength?
Does the foam quiet the ride that much?

As far as floatation a few cubic feet of foam outboard of the stringers isn't going the keep it above water if all goes wrong.
Sorry for all the questions, just trying to figure my options.


Kedd

[Capt. Bob]

I need to put in the blukheads and foam outboard of my stringers.
Should I have drainage in every bulkhead even though the will be foamed, so water can escape?

This is from member "thenutts" rebuild. From your original question, it would appear you both are approaching the build the same way.
Hopefully he'll confirm or deny his placement of weep holes for drainage in the foam filled compartments.



Foamed bulkheads


Foamed bulkheads 2


It appears that he is conveying water from the forward compartment to the stern through his tank compartment. I'll assume since he poured the side bulkheads that he is not anticipating any water entering those areas (just a guess). The water that may enter the front, non foamed compartment needs to get to the stern for removal so it appears he passes that though pipes to the bilge.
Solid or half will work but with the obsession some of us have with keeping water out of the tank compartment, I for one would rather run a full section and not rely on having to seal it. That's just one way to skin the cat.

And to all who were taken back by my reference to their wives and girlfriends   I removed those references
I apologize for the satire (and this thread steal) and should have realized the sensitivity of the membership especially after this post some time ago.
viewtopic.php?p=41556#p41556

It won't happen again.
Now back to bulkheads and foam.

[kedd]

Capt. Bob,

The wife comment was taken only in a joking  fashion.
I have a thick skin. LOL
I thank you for the help and helping answer my questions

Back to the foam.
Do I really need it?
My stringers are shorter up front the LilRichard"s and  I have no anchor locker.
It would be very easy to get water in them just by spraying water up under the cap.

Kedd

[Capt. Bob]

If you are not going to foam the bulkheads (or any other compartments) then yes, you should provide a way to drain said compartments. Using my WAC as an example, there is no foam save that within the stringers themselves. The bulkheads have "weep holes" to allow drainage. I cannot tell if they have a piece of short pipe in them (though I'd recommend it). It will help if any material (leaves, fishing line, debris etc) gets into the compartment.
Here's an example.


They (Aqua) also ran a 2" pvc pipe through the front center of the forward bilge, into the tank compartment to allow water to traverse from that bilge through the compartment and exit into the stern bilge. The ends of each pie is trimmed and then glassed (with resin only) into the joint that is created down the center line of the hull. This glassing of the end of the pipe allows a smooth flow of water through the pipe entry and exit points (no uphill flow or water flow underneath or around the pipe). The pipe is not continuous and uses the tank compartment to convey the water.

I understand the thought behind not running a continuous pipe (or half pipe for that matter) because if water was to enter from another source (the hatch covers above) it could not exit the compartment. Since I suffer from tank compartment hyrdophobia, I plugged the pipe in two places in an effort to reduce water entry.

Water in the front bilge now relies completely on removal via the factory installed bilge pump. Should water enter the tank compartment from another source, I can remove the second plug that resides on the stern bilge side of the pipe and drain the compartment into the bilge as originally designed. Needless to say, I have gone to great lengths to insure that water entry through the hatch is held to a minimum.

If you really want to avoid all this nonsense of water through the tank compartment, get a CCP.

All kidding aside, your rebuild looks great and you will be fine draining your bulkheads as LilRichard shows if you decide on no foam.
Foam, it's like what oil do you use or whether to paint your aluminum tank. A lot of reasons for and against. If you got the time and money, probably couldn't hurt. In my case, the WAC will either level float or go down like a rock. Either case I don't currently plan to explore.

[MarshMarlowe196]

Whether or not these Aqua's are unsinkable is up for questioning.  I've heard of them sinking before, but then in the Diver Ad on Ebay that Rick posted, the article claims the boat is unsinkable...?  

The boat definitely doesn't have enough foam (factory) to be "unsinkable" in Coast Guard definitions, so maybe the boat is unsinkable due to the completely sealed bilge (air pocket) they had originally.

As far as foam being used for structure, yes it does add some structure, if nothing more than an internal  skeleton for your stringers/bulkheads.  How much structure it adds depends on the density of foam you use.  Boston Whalers are built without any form of stringer system, just inner and outer liners filled with high density foam, and people swear by these boats.

Me personally- the foam may not be enough to stop you from sinking, but it sure slows it down  .  That's comforting, if nothing else.

BUT- if you have foam, you'll always worry about it absorbing moisture, not to mention the weight that it will add to the boat (dry or wet).  Really up to you, as Bob said.

[MarshMarlowe196]

I apologize for the satire (and this thread steal) and should have realized the sensitivity of the membership especially after this post some time ago.
viewtopic.php?p=41556#p41556

It won't happen again.

yeah you obviously should've known better.  It's only ok in moderation.

[gran398]

kedd,

You had asked about the sound-deadening aspect of the foam install. Have been advised that it is very effective, particularly for chine-slap.

[kedd]

Gran398,
Thanks, good to know.

Kedd

[Capt Matt]

Just my opinion
Go foam free, I think its more hassle than its worth and your bulkheads can be left to drain like a fountain without it. After so much wet foam removal before my rebuild started I could not put it back in.
Capt Matt

[gran398]

Matt, agree regarding the blockage issue. We have attempted to address this with pipe, half-pipe, etc., ...protecting drainage. No consensus reached.

Good points covered. Think we all agree that poured foam between the outer stringers and chine area isn't enough to prevent sinking in a serious wash-over situation.

So would follow that the only reason for foam in these areas is for sound-deadening. My guy recommends free-floating closed cell foam panels for this application. Can't clog the bilge...floats upward.

No need for chine-slap noise, it can be prevented.

[Capt Matt]

Unless your chines are rolled over on the outside of the boat hull they will still slap. You might not hear them but the fish will  lol
Capt Matt