Seastar helm shaft seal replacement

[fitz73222]

Hey Guy`s,
Need some help understanding the correct procedure to replace my leaky helm shaft seal on a Seastar 1.7 5271 hydraulic steering helm. I received the seal kit today with no work instructions as to how to do it. I removed the steering wheel, woodruff key and faceplate to gain access to the seal. Can the seal be manipulated out of its seat without taking the helm apart? I do not want to disassemble the helm for obvious reasons in order to remove the steering shaft to knock the seal out. I`ve got some small dental tools to pick at the seal which is plastic if it can be removed this way. I am able to fashion my own tooling if needed. Any help would be very much appreciated.

Thanks guys,
Fitz

[seabob4]

Fitz,
You have to in from the back side, which what I assume you're doing.  Don't know if this helps, but at least it shows you all the innards of a Seastar helm pump...http://www.thehulltruth.com/boating-for ... -pics.html

Email my good friend Marc Adams at Teleflex, madams@teleflex.bc.ca, tell him Bob C sent you.  He'll tell you how to do it...

[RickK]

This is a good topic - on my 230 if I pull too much on my steering wheel, like when I'm coming up on plane, mine leaks down the bulkhead - think it's coming out of the front seal, running down the bottom and onto the bulkhead?  I wondered how much I need to take it apart - I have the seal kit already.

Fitz, take good notes please.  

[fitz73222]

I will take copious notes... I found some information from THT Whaler segment with good work instructions; looks easily done from the steering wheel side of the helm. I will report back tomorrow.

[John Jones]

http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/PDFs/767329A.pdf

EZPZ

All Seastar docs are here.
http://ww2.seastarsteering.com/PDFs/PDF_files.htm

[Capt. Bob]

Bullseye. :!:
Great stuff for the Resource forum.

JJ

[fitz73222]

Seal came right out; nothing more than a contoured dual lipped neoprene O-ring. Non directional, goes in either way. Hooked it with a dental pick; I`m sure a straightened fish hook, safety pin etc. will pull it right out. Installation; wet it with some steering fliud and carefully push it back into the recess making sure not to twist it as she slides in until the outer edge is flush with the recess. I also replaced the vented cap O-ring provided in the kit. The rest of the gaskets and O-rings are for a total helm teardown which I hope I never need but will stay in the parts bin for a mandatory 5 years or until dry rotted! Don`t be scared of this project; very easy. Took longer to get the jaws set up on the steering wheel puller (standard gear puller). Also be prepared for oil to come gushing out of the helm when you pull out the seal; lots of rags!

Fitz

[John Jones]

Also be prepared for oil to come gushing out of the helm when you pull out the seal; lots of rags!
Fitz

 
Sorry, guess I should have mentioned that.  Been there a couple of times.

Another note if someone has dual stations.  NEVER EVER disconnect anything or pull the fill plug on the lower station.  All work is done from the upper station.  Gravity makes a big mess and you will drop the fill plug while trying to get it back in to stop the eruption of fluid.

[RickK]

Another note if someone has dual stations.  NEVER EVER disconnect anything or pull the fill plug on the lower station.  All work is done from the upper station.  Gravity makes a big mess and you will drop the fill plug while trying to get it back in to stop the eruption of fluid.

I could just see myself in the middle of that task when....

[John Jones]

Yep.
You don't turn the wheel or move the motor while the fill plug is out either.  Kinda hard to get that stuff out of the bimini canvas.

Not all of these were done by me but I have at least witnessed them while assisting others.

[seabob4]

A little trick to getting a wheel off without a gear puller...but you need a buddy and a couple beers.

Remove the shaft nut, then screw it back on hand tight.  Give your buddy a beer, let him consume.  Then have him pull aft on the wheel while you hit the nut on the end of the shaft with a regular weight hammer and a length of 2X.  Leaving the nut on serves 2 purposes.  The first, to protect the threads of the shaft.  The second, to keep your buddy from ending up on the transom when the wheel breaks loose...

Now give your buddy the second beer for his efforts!


I've removed hundreds of wheels using this method.  Only have had 1 that I had to result to a gear puller...and it almost destroyed the puller!  

[fitz73222]

I tried that first using a brass hammer (no buddy around) with the nut in place to protect the threads. I hate "tapping" on things so the gear puller popped her off with a "little" tap.. The steering wheel has been on since 95` when the new helm was installed. So I decided on a more subdued approach. An yes, a light coating of 2-4-C was reapplied to the taper! Now if you want to pop a ball joint loose; I just need my 3# buddy and about two licks!

[fitz73222]

Just wanted to say thank you for the help... This is a great forum made up of great individuals.

Merry Christmas brothers and sisters...

fitz

[Circle Hooked]

Fitz glad everything worked out and thanks for posting this.

Merry Christmas. :santa:

[John Jones]

Now if you want to pop a ball joint loose; I just need my 3# buddy and about two licks!

 
I have a fishing buddy like that.  A rusty ball joint is about the most delicate thing I will let him help me with.  Anything else and it's likely to be destroyed.  ;)

 
Glad it worked out well.