1987 222 Osprey rebuild (complete!!!)

[kedd]

Matt,

Thanks, but I used epoxy.
I'll figure something out.

Kedd

[LilRichard]

You can leave it bare glass - but if you want it to look nice (at access points), there is an epoxy paint available at Sherwin Williams (cannot recall the name) that you can use.  I put it in mine and it has held up great.  Obviously sand the glass first.

[kedd]

Thanks.
I'll paint where needed.

Another questino.
I want to float test the boat to check waterline and where my tank and console need to be.

Do you think I can trailer it with bracket and motor on and not have the transom cap on?
I will have the original cap secured on the boat and transom is tabbed in with the side walls.
So floor would not be secure and back cap would not be  glassed over the top of the transom.

The fact I'm asking the question is most likely the answer.

Kedd

[thennutts]

Kedd,

I dont know buddy. You hit one good pot hole and this motor does a hell of a bounce it sure would be helpful for additional strength of that transom cap. I'm not saying it cant be done, but i would bite every finger nail I had off on the way to the ramp. Quick question as far as weight.
Are you only hanging your motor and porta off the back?  
Are you using just typical trim tabs? What type of baitwell?
Where is your starting battery going?
Where are your aux batteries going?
Trolling motor type and where are those batteries going?

Sorry for the multiple questions but with those answered I may be able to give you a hint.

[kedd]

Thennutts,
Thanks.
I only have untill end of march indoors, but will buy a tent when that time comes.
This is the reason for the rush, I just want to get the floor down and water tight.

I will 21" set back on the Potra bracket and 494lbs on the 225 motor

trim tabs will be standard size.

Both batteries will be in the console, a 27 and a 24.
Bait tank will be 30? if the float test goes well, no tank if not.

There will be no trolling motor.

There is no tower or t-top .

I have a new fuel tank that is 50 gal and 60" instead for the 93" 80 gal tank that was stock.
The tank can move 20" forward of the stock position and console can move 4" forward.


Kedd

[LilRichard]

Just take two or three dudes with you and have them stand in the rear of the boat.  Seriously...

[kedd]

Just take two or three dudes with you and have them stand in the rear of the boat. Seriously...

That is the answer.
I will have two of them see if they can balance on the bracket over the 38 degree water

Kedd

[LilRichard]

That's why I said three in the back... a motor is ~400+, but putting ~500+ in the back will make up for placement a little forward.

But nonetheless it would be more fun to watch them fall off the bracket.

[kedd]

Of course I'm going to tell my buddies standing on the bracket is the only way :P
Those will be pics worth posting.

Glued haysite on the tank 4 days ago  5200 hates the northeast, dried today so I can glue more.

Extended my sidewall and put a couple of layers of cloth on the outside transom.

Fitted the bracket and drilled mounting holes before fairing and sanding.

Also layed out bulkheads, and PVC.

Kedd

[love2fish]

HOLY BULKHEADS!

[kedd]

HOLY BULKHEADS!

That's the feedback I need! LOL
I would like to do just one bulkhead every floor seam, but put one every 2'.
The tech at coosa composites said I need support every 14".
I guess I'll know when I glass both sides of the board and see how much flex I have.

If less is better that is the way I want to go! saves me a ton of time.

Love2fish your build looks great.
How far back did you cut the top cap?
What did your overall transom hight end up being?


Kedd

[love2fish]

A bulkhead where each of your plywood sheets meet together and split the difference with that. given that your tabbing along the whole outside edge and the stringers are less than 2ft from the gunwales there isnt going to be a huge area that would sag. just make sure they are wide enough, double up the bulkhead where the sheets are meeting as I dont think 3/4" or 1' of ledge to sit on is enough.
Also, I would run the flooring sheets from side to side and not front to back. Just like laying subflooring in a house, you always want to crisscross your layers.

[kedd]

Thanks.
The flooring is cut for a side to side fit.
The doubled up blukheads makes a lot of sense.

Kedd

[kedd]

I have a couple more questions.

First is what is the common width of the transom cap on the other 22-2s?

I also have to figure a way to attach the floor to the transom while still allowing access to the bracket bolts.
The top bolts will be above the floor and bottom will be below with mouting plate between.
What would be my best approch?
I will have supports extending from the knees on the stringers up the transom to the top cap when finished if that helps in picturing it.
Here is a pic.
The wood is just a cross support(bad pic)


Thanks,
Kedd

[gran398]

I have a couple more questions.

First is what is the common width of the transom cap on the other 22-2s?

I also have to figure a way to attach the floor to the transom while still allowing access to the bracket bolts.
The top bolts will be above the floor and bottom will be below with mouting plate between.
What would be my best approch?
I will have supports extending from the knees on the stringers up the transom to the top cap when finished if that helps in picturing it.
Here is a pic.
The wood is just a cross support(bad pic)


Thanks,
Kedd

Kedd, you're looking good. Re your first question....Everyone likes a wide coaming. Great to sit on back there, watch baits, eat chicken, etc. How wide will your gunnels be? You could choose to match, and add another 2" of width at the transom....whatever seems comfortable width-wise for seating, yet doesn't fight your side gunnel width as far as appearance.

And re the bolt access...assume your going with a rear deck hatch. Just mount it with regard to access, and buy one wide/long enough so you have room to work without  having to be a contortionist.

On Rebuilds a few months back is a thread on quality hatches.