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Author Topic: 1976 24 Proline Rebuild  (Read 15125 times)

November 03, 2010, 11:30:45 AM
Reply #30

orb

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Re: 1976 24 Proline Rebuild
« Reply #30 on: November 03, 2010, 11:30:45 AM »
If you are using epxoy rather than polyester you could use the styrene based foams. They are very cheap. If you completely seal the stringers, that kind of foam can work., but you have to be careful because that type of foam board is effected by gasoline and some cleaning agents.

You could also make a form, like pouring concrete. You could take plywood, or the pink styrene foam and stand them up as a form for the outside if the stringers. You could tape, like duct tape them to hull to hold them in place. You could then fill them 2pd pour foam.The pink cheap foam board would work great as a form, because you could leave the clear plastic coating on it, that will keep the  pour foam from sticking to the foam board, and the clear plastic can be peeled off after.
Then you remove the foam board and the plastic coating, trim the top of the foam off even, and then cover it with fiberglass. I would use epoxy though. Epoxy is a mush better adherent than polyester glass. I have a 240 aquasport, and where they glassed the stringers to the hull, has come loose, because the fiberglass never fully bonds to dry fiberglass. Epoxy is mush better at this.
If you are not up for all that spoty, make from scratch stuff, you could use coosa, or nida core, instead of the pink foam. Cut the stringer like you would wood stringers, attach the coosa to the hull and then fill  in between the cossa- the interior of the stringer with 2pd foam. This would make a large strong stringer like in the aquasport. THe coosa, or nida core would make a very strong stringer.
70\'s  240 seahunter(rebuilding now)
Photogallery-
http://www.classicaquasport.com/gallery ... &protype=1

\'77 22-2 (rebuild on hold)
1997 19\' sundance 70 merc

November 04, 2010, 06:35:20 AM
Reply #31

Capt. Offshore

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Re: 1976 24 Proline Rebuild
« Reply #31 on: November 04, 2010, 06:35:20 AM »
Quote from: "LilRichard"
I have seen a few prolines being rebuilt, and that does not look like a factory job.  Wonder if someone already "rebuilt" it once?
I would suggest you go with two stringers, multiple bulkheads.  Most everyone has done that and it works well.  That boat does not need four stringers, it's overkill.
   
 
Quote from: "puttz07"
I agree...As I am progressing further into the rebuild it is def not original! It was rebuilt with straight woven!!! I have alot of grinding to do to get all that woven out of there.  :| ...I will def go with the 2 stringer system....I have not decided what material to make the stringers and bulkheads out of yet. I was thinking coosa board or a foam material. Any Input???

 
Puttz and LilRichard,


I'm new to the forum, but have been a "Lurker" for sometime.  Just this past weekend I FINALLY have found (bought - LOL) my project boat . . . . WOOHOOO ! ! !  It is a `76 24' Proline Flatback just as your's . . . . I have found the same junk stringers in mine, so I must believe it is foctory ! ! !  There are 4, they are "half-azzed" wrapped in woven every so often the length of the stringer - NOT very good workmanship to say the least.  As of last night mine is gutted and ready for some sanding.  I plan on using 2 sheets of the 1" Coosa BW26 along with several layers of 1708 for a sandwich/wrap for my transom.  For my stringers and bulk heads I plan to use 2" 6LB. urathyan foam in the same sandwich layup as the transom, that will give me a thick strong stringerer as well . . . . . . very cost saving too.  The transom will be a little costly -but- VERY strong as I will be having a 5'X2' motor bracket/swim platform with 4" jackplate and a 175 Opti hanging off of it ! ! !  As soon as I can figure out how to work this "Photo Bucket" thing I will post some pics (start another thread too, as not to high-jack your's).  Good luck on you flatty.

November 04, 2010, 07:27:33 AM
Reply #32

RickK

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Re: 1976 24 Proline Rebuild
« Reply #32 on: November 04, 2010, 07:27:33 AM »
Welcome aboard CO  :!:  :!:
Rick
1971 "170" with 115 Johnson (It's usable but not 100% finished)

1992 230 Explorer with 250 Yamaha

November 09, 2010, 10:53:37 PM
Reply #33

LilRichard

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Re: 1976 24 Proline Rebuild
« Reply #33 on: November 09, 2010, 10:53:37 PM »
Quote from: "Capt. Offshore"
For my stringers and bulk heads I plan to use 2" 6LB. urathyan foam in the same sandwich layup as the transom, that will give me a thick strong stringerer as well . . . . . . very cost saving too.  


I used the same foam for my stringers - easy to work with, reasonable cost.  Good luck!

November 10, 2010, 12:35:28 AM
Reply #34

gran398

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Re: 1976 24 Proline Rebuild
« Reply #34 on: November 10, 2010, 12:35:28 AM »
Quote from: "RickK"
Welcome aboard CO  :!:  :!:



Welcome CO...appreciate your post... :)

November 10, 2010, 06:45:29 PM
Reply #35

Capt. Offshore

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Re: 1976 24 Proline Rebuild
« Reply #35 on: November 10, 2010, 06:45:29 PM »
Thank you guys for the welcome aboard.  I tend to lean a little toward epoxy resins, but I have a friend who was an "EPOXY NUT" for a long time and he is now kind of playing with vinyl-ester resin ! ! !  This is a fella who would show me all kinds of experiments on "WHY you shouldn't use polyester resin" ! ! !  What is your opinions on vinyl-ester ? ? ?

November 10, 2010, 09:49:41 PM
Reply #36

dirtwheelsfl

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Re: 1976 24 Proline Rebuild
« Reply #36 on: November 10, 2010, 09:49:41 PM »
its nice for initial building, but rebuilding on boats this old i use nothing but epoxy... especially since it sounds like youve got experience with it.

November 11, 2010, 04:13:02 PM
Reply #37

puttz07

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Re: 1976 24 Proline Rebuild
« Reply #37 on: November 11, 2010, 04:13:02 PM »
In my search for supplys I came across this....I would love to use this for my stringers.  Anybody have any experience with this product??

URETHANE SHEET FOAM
This is a non-structural foam used for a
coring when insulation is needed such as
coolers and ice boxes, also used for
sound barrier. R values vary depending
on thickness.
S HEET SIZE THICKNESS PRICE
UF-1-96 4’ X 8’ 1” $ 54.13
UF-1-48 4’ X 4’ 1” $ 30.93
UF-1-24 2’ X 4’ 1” $ 18.74
UF-2-96 4’ X 8’ 2” $ 115.96
UF-2-48 4’ X 4’ 2” $ 58.54
UF-2-24 2’ X 4’ 2” $ 32.55

November 11, 2010, 09:04:22 PM
Reply #38

Capt. Offshore

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Re: 1976 24 Proline Rebuild
« Reply #38 on: November 11, 2010, 09:04:22 PM »
Puttz,

     That is the stuff I am using for my stringers, cross members, and bulkheads.  I went with the 6 lb. 2" thick sheets (4'X8').  For my stringers there are 2 pieces sandwiched with 24 oz. roven in the middle and wrapped twice with 1708 - totaling about 4 1/2" thick by the full length, then cobisil/epoxied to the hull, tabbed and gone over with 1708 twice again.  It is a good way to go and very cost saving too ! ! !

Check out ;
Merrit Supply   -also-    Fiberglass Supply

Catch ya in a bit.

November 12, 2010, 09:28:50 AM
Reply #39

puttz07

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Re: 1976 24 Proline Rebuild
« Reply #39 on: November 12, 2010, 09:28:50 AM »
When are we going to see some pictures of your proline Capt Offshore???

November 12, 2010, 10:13:58 AM
Reply #40

puttz07

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Re: 1976 24 Proline Rebuild
« Reply #40 on: November 12, 2010, 10:13:58 AM »
Anyone have any experience with working with the honeycomb sole matierial? I will be installing a tower and want to make sure this stuff can hold screws well.

November 12, 2010, 02:30:05 PM
Reply #41

akbridge

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Re: 1976 24 Proline Rebuild
« Reply #41 on: November 12, 2010, 02:30:05 PM »
You might want to talk to Joel Shine at http://boatbuildercentral.com/  He sells all products you might need.  And has built many boats.  He rebuilt an AS 222 back when.  I think SB just rerigged that boat.  It used honeycomb for the floor and has a tower.  They made a few videos on youtube on how to rebuild such a boat.  Look here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Cg8l1Y2pQQU

November 12, 2010, 04:22:21 PM
Reply #42

dirtwheelsfl

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Re: 1976 24 Proline Rebuild
« Reply #42 on: November 12, 2010, 04:22:21 PM »
Quote from: "puttz07"
Anyone have any experience with working with the honeycomb sole matierial? I will be installing a tower and want to make sure this stuff can hold screws well.


you need to put crush sleeves in the nidacore, and thrubolt anything you put in it. drill out the top skin of glass and the core itself, but leave the bottom skin. then fill that with a pvc pipe sleeve/epoxy/cabosil/sawdust mixture. then drill your mounting holes. make sure you have a good sized backing plate too...

November 12, 2010, 06:07:29 PM
Reply #43

puttz07

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Re: 1976 24 Proline Rebuild
« Reply #43 on: November 12, 2010, 06:07:29 PM »
I think ill stick with coose board. Sounds too complicated....

November 12, 2010, 06:11:15 PM
Reply #44

dirtwheelsfl

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Re: 1976 24 Proline Rebuild
« Reply #44 on: November 12, 2010, 06:11:15 PM »
ya its real nice for saving weight, but the labor is where it hurts.

 


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