transom time

[Mako254]

If they could improve my memory...

The missing link.....

http://photobucket.com

I do tend to have issues on Mondays

[JimCt]

Mako254, I think I understand the embedding manoever.  Will give it a try later.

Am I correct that you used West System epoxy or equiv. for the whole job?

Best antidote for Monday morning "issues" is 2 cups of strong black coffee.  Best fog-cutter known to Man.

Thanks again for all your help & info.

[JimCt]

Let's see if this works...



This is the 33 year old 170 transom in question.  As I wrote above, think I'll open it up around the drain scupper area to see condition of core.

  Am I correct in assuming deterioration would start at the bottom of the transom?

[RickK]

Jim, they really changed the design between 71 and 72.  I don't have those cutouts/notches in the sides where they meet the transom.  What are they for?  I see the cleats but what is below that?  Also the pole storage is different.  I can imagine they did that because of longer poles.  Mine are finished boxes that are set into the sides and if you have a longer pole than the box, oh well.

[RickK]

I would presume that you would glass everything to every stringer, hull side, anything to get more support. AND multiple layers, each being scruffed/ground and the next being longer than the previous.

 Multiple layers, each being scruffed/ground is not the way to do it.

Work cleanly, have all your glass precut and sized and start laying. While the previous layer is still green lay the next one and so on.

So it IS a multilayer approach, you just don't have to wait until it hardens and grind away the rough before adding the next layer.  I bet each layer should be a little longer too - to grab more surface area?

[JimCt]

RickK,

The cut-outs are solely for the cleats and allow a solid anchor point directly to the transom.  The location also keeps them of the way.  In the starbord side cut-out, below the cleat, is the receiver for the sternlight post.

As far as mine truthfully being a '72, that is simply an article of faith.  It's what the previous registration said.  My gut tells me they were guessing.  The builder's hull number (port side just below the kicker tiller) is not in current HIN format.  Current format started Nov. '72 I think so I'm sometime before that.  I haven't heard that Steved, Official Historian, has a list that correlates the old hull serial numbers to dates.

Do you still have the builder's plate number for your boat & a known build year?  If the serial numbers were assigned sequentially, maybe we can figure out where my boat fits into the picture.

[JimCt]

warthog5,

Have been studying your picture/narrative chronicles of the Mako rebirth.  To say your work is of professional caliber is a serious understatement.

With apologies for running a tad off-topic, one of the more notable features in the pictures, aside from the job at hand, is your enviable shop space.  I've been thinking of building a shop but the problem of clear-span area has lingered.  That appears to be a stock pre-engineered building.  Did you erect it yourself?  Is square foot cost anywhere in the ballpark of wood framing?

[RickK]

The cut-outs are solely for the cleats and allow a solid anchor point directly to the transom.  The location also keeps them of the way.  In the starbord side cut-out, below the cleat, is the receiver for the sternlight post.

 That's what I was thinking as I looked at the pic is that the cutouts kept the cap free of all the clutter mine has on it. (lights, cleats, rodholders, bimini rails, bimini, etc)

As far as mine truthfully being a '72, that is simply an article of faith.  It's what the previous registration said.  My gut tells me they were guessing.  The builder's hull number (port side just below the kicker tiller) is not in current HIN format.  Current format started Nov. '72 I think so I'm sometime before that.  I haven't heard that Steved, Official Historian, has a list that correlates the old hull serial numbers to dates.

 I suppose someone could have changed info/dates on registration but why would they, unless someone lost an original? That should be traceable back to the first time it was registered somehow/somewhere.  I was told that my boat came from the northeast somewhere, so I think it would be hard for me to trace if I had to. I guess I'm running on faith too, that mine is a 71.

Do you still have the builder's plate number for your boat & a known build year?  If the serial numbers were assigned sequentially, maybe we can figure out where my boat fits into the picture.

Nope, I've never seen a plate anywhere.  It would have been nice to know limitations and such, but during my re-dos, I never exposed one.  Replaced the rub rail, where I'd read they stashed them sometimes, but didn't see anything at least that I can remember.  Maybe it's on the transom under some gelcoat?  If so, someone will uncover it someday - maybe me?  :)

[JimCt]

As far as my hull build date being correct, when I went to register the boat   the previous owner's registration certificate showed an "NJZ" prefex to the registration number and the hull date as 1972.  "NJZ" indicated this was an assigned number from New Jersey.  Boat make was listed "homemade".

In their own endearing brand of mysterious and unknowable wisdom, our Motor Vehiches Department here in Ct corrected the MFR to Aquasport but changed the build date to 1982!  When I raised the matter of this inconsistency with the clerk behind the desk at DMV, I received a cold, gray stare back.  In a monotone voice she asked me if I wanted to register the boat or not.  If so, take the registration as it is.  If not, step aside.

That is the story of why my gut tells me even the 1972 date may be suspect.  After all, the point of registration, at least here in the "Nutmeg State", is to collect money; not dabble in accuracy.  My suspicion is that other states may follow this policy as well.

[JimCt]

Rick,  Dumb question:  If there's no number on your hull how can the hull be tied to your registration certificate?  On my boat somone in the past had stamped the assigned registration on the stbd. top of the transom.

[warthog5]

RickK  That is correct.

JimCt On the shop.  I see your in new england, so het is important.

A steel building with high ceiling's is not real good for that.

The new foam block and pored full of concrete would be much better. That section of my shop is 30X30X14 so that a 12ft roll up door will fit.
If I was to do it again it would be 30X40X14.
Gere's some pix's of the whole shop. It's 1680sqft. The 24X36 Block part already existed. I have since added a 12X40 boat shed on the south side.





This is a pix of how I X-brace it when a hurricane is comming.

[JimCt]

warthog5,

It is gratifying to see the results from someone who knows how to do things right and carries through and does them!

Concerning shop area, 30' x 30' clear would work perfectly.  Allows for elbow room yet not so large as to invite "hangar queen" projects; the kind that get started but linger on and become permanent parts of the furnishings.  Will investigate the new block const. option.

Back on topic:

Just got a line on a local '74 22.2 (possibly it's a 22.5) hull which sounds like a transom/deck job candidate.  Good project to cut my teeth on if the $'s are right.  Will post pictures if it's a go.

Have to say I'm nervous about cutting into my 170 first time out; she displays no symptoms in the transom area and is near original showroom condition.  Tough to cut open the girl you love.  A complete stranger, however, is a different matter entirely ( with apologies to Dr. Lector).

[RickK]

Rick,  Dumb question:  If there's no number on your hull how can the hull be tied to your registration certificate?  On my boat somone in the past had stamped the assigned registration on the stbd. top of the transom.

 
Unless something is under gelcoat somewhere on the transom OR I'm forgetting a little tag somewhere - don't think so though. So no clue.

[JimCt]

Rick,  In FL do you have to physically present a used boat for registration?  Here in CT the state assumes every applicant is a boat-thief and won't register an un-seen boat.  If numbers don't match or are missing you are S.O.L.

[Radioshop]

In Florida you do not have to present the boat.  You do have to have hull numbers, they can be self etched, meaning you take a dremel tool and put 'em on there yourself.