Mounting tank racks in 225 Explorer

[firefight]

Hey everyone,

Just purchased my 2000 Aquasport 225 Explorer a couple weeks ago. We love the boat so far and can't wait to do some fishing and diving.

I need to mount some dive tank brackets in the boat. I purchased the roll control system and from what I can tell, they need to mount about halfway up the rod racks on the port and starboard sides. Basically the system is a 48" piece of aluminum channel, 2"  wide that needs to mount to something. The tank holders slide into the aluminum channel and lock in. I would like to keep the rod racks in the boat for rods/spearguns, but the only thing I can come up with is to engineer some brackets for each end of the aluminum channel so that they will mount on each end of the rod rack.  

I'm looking for any ideas on mounting these tank brackets or any other type of tank holding system.

Thanks,
John

[RickK]

Welcome aboard FF  :!:  :!:
The PO of my 230 had a scuba rack, as you describe, screw exactly where you're talking about - to the rodrack.  But he had it up so it was about 3/4 or higher up the tank.

[seabob4]

John,
We installed the same tank racks that you want to as an option.  The way we did it was the aluminum channel spanned the rod pocket, and was centered on the rod rack upper protrusion, if you know what I mean.  We drilled (8) holes in 4 places, one above the other, at each end to screw into the inwale, and where the channel rests against that protrusion, to screw into the starboard.  Gives the channel support in the middle...

BTW, countersink the holes in the channel and use flat-head screws.  That way you can slide the tank holder brackets easily...

[Glock Diver]

John,

I just added 5 tank holders to my 225 Osprey.

I too used the aluminum roll-control system, and I mounted that aluminum bracket here, where I used to have 3 rod holders. Not sure if the 225 Explorer has this feature or not, but you get the idea.  I removed the rod holders, and screwed the aluminum bracket where the top holes are shown.  It fits about halfway up a standard 80cf scuba tank, and I have room for 2 tanks here on the port side.  (However, my tank holders are the bungee type, not the flip-down arm type).  I'll try to take another picture of the finished product tomorrow.  They do sell fishing rod holders that are specifically designed to fit in those channels, so you could theoretically remove your tank holders and slide in some rod holders for a day of fishing.




I also added 3 tank holders on the transom, 2 on the starboard and 1 on the port.  This one was a tricky install, as you don't have enough room to use that aluminum track.  I simply drilled holes through the individual tank holders, countersink, and bolted them down.  The disadvantage is that they block the access doors to the bilge area, but then again, when I'm out diving, I usually don't need to get in there.

I'll try to take a photo of that setup too.

[cdoyal]

John,
We installed the same tank racks that you want to as an option.  The way we did it was the aluminum channel spanned the rod pocket, and was centered on the rod rack upper protrusion, if you know what I mean.  We drilled (8) holes in 4 places, one above the other, at each end to screw into the inwale, and where the channel rests against that protrusion, to screw into the starboard.  Gives the channel support in the middle...

BTW, countersink the holes in the channel and use flat-head screws.  That way you can slide the tank holder brackets easily...

Here's a photo of the racks on my 245 Explorer

[John Jones]

http://www.seasucker.com/downloads/Seas ... mmer09.pdf

[Glock Diver]

Here's a couple creative ways to do tank holders.

This first one replaced my port side fwd rod holders, like I mentioned.




...

And this one is on the transom, starboard side. I also have a single tank holder mounted on the other side of the livewell here.

[firefight]

Thanks for all the help guys! I guess I'll tackle this job tomorrow. I was really concerned about putting screws into the rod holders, but apparently that's the way to go.

Thanks again!
John

[seabob4]

Thanks for all the help guys! I guess I'll tackle this job tomorrow. I was really concerned about putting screws into the rod holders, but apparently that's the way to go.

Thanks again!
John

3/4" #10 Flatheads...you'll be alright...just remember to c/sink the aluminum channel!

[Glock Diver]

Thanks for all the help guys! I guess I'll tackle this job tomorrow. I was really concerned about putting screws into the rod holders, but apparently that's the way to go.

Thanks again!
John

3/4" #10 Flatheads...you'll be alright...just remember to c/sink the aluminum channel!

Bob, you sure the little 3/4" #10's will be strong enough?  I'm about to add a couple more tank holders to my 225, and it sure would be easier to follow that method!   (for my original project, I drilled thru and used a 3 bolts, washers & nuts.  But it was a PITA to reach back there.  The #10 scews sounds much easier, as long as it will hold a couple heavy tanks in a chop.)

[seabob4]

Pre-drill the starboard, they'll be fine...

Starboard has excellent, wood-like qualities.  As long as the mounting hole (5/32") is pre-drilled, the screws will hold...

[Glock Diver]

Pre-drill the starboard, they'll be fine...

Starboard has excellent, wood-like qualities.  As long as the mounting hole (5/16") is pre-drilled, the screws will hold...

Well, my 2 rear mounts are screwed into starboard (the frame of my bilge access door, actually), but my forward racks are mounted into fiberglass, I believe.  See my pics above.  

Still OK with the #10's?

[seabob4]

Mike,
Let's look at this logically.  In glass, 5/32" for #10s.  3/16" for number 14s.  Either way, you have about the same amount of glass gripping the threads on each screw type. Ideally, anchors are what you might consider...