Speaking of Steering Cables

[Tailgunner]

Mine seperated while I was fishing on Monday. It was only a season old. I did some research and learned that if it lets go inside the helm (mine did) one should replace the whole system. I "upgraded" to the NFB rotary from the QC II. $160 for the 16' model for my 222.

Related:

Sea Tow was great and towed me in within an hour of my call. The boat came from 18 miles away.

Always stow your anchor properly after use. I got into the habit recently and was glad I did when I needed it rather quickly. I was fishing the rocks and current was sending me into them when the cable let go.

Worst Marine was $20 above list price. I went with Shipstore.com.

[Radioshop]

Wow, steering failure!  Could have been worse.  Do you think the one you took out was original?  The NFB is a much sturdier unit than the QC.  You'll like it.  I really prefer cable to hydraulic.  It's so much more responsive and gives great feed back, but not torque steer type.  I'm going hydraulic soon, got the parts, but if I didn't have V-6, I'd keep the cable.

[Tailgunner]

The cable I replaced at the end of last season. The helm unit appears to be a "few" years old.

I've heard lots of good things about the NFB and am looking forward to it. I don't like hydraulics on small boats myself even if I could afford them.

My next big purchase will be trim tabs. I'll have to sell the Harley first according to the Boss.

[Radioshop]

If you sold the Harley, then you could buy a few sets of trim tabs.  Sheesh, hang on to the hawg and wait for a deal on some used ones.

[Tailgunner]

I have a few other toys in mind as well once the bike is gone.

[RickK]

So tell me, why don't you guys like hydraulics? (Especially on small boats?)  The reason I ask is I'm getting hydraulics (used) put on mine this week - hope I'm not making a mistake
I have had a love/hate relationship with the cable steering on this boat for the past 17 years - I like the way it responds but it's a real pain to get out of the motor to service/clean it.  There is barely any room, I mean like 1/4", to get the end of the cable out of the tube on the motor once I've driven a rod from the other side to get it out - my 170 is not very wide and those cables are sure stiff.  Needless to say, no fun.  Hope the hydraulic type is easier to service for the next 17 years.  :)

[Anonymous]

I have a several year old cable in my '89 AS. I never use grease. An old timer taught me to pull the cable out of the tube at the outboard connectiion. I then use a oil brush (Eastwood) attached to a cordless drill,I spray carb cleaner in the tube and clean it out,same with the cable end. I then coat the tube and cable using Amsoil lower gear case oil. It makes a bit of a mess but you can steer my 20' with one finger. I do this every fall when I store the boat for the winter.

[frank1861]

I installed a Baystar Hydraulic system on my 170 a couple years ago and I would never go back to cable. I like the effortless steering of hydraulic. Whether I'm idling or at WOT it steers completly effortlessly.

[RickK]

I would service mine whenever it started to get a little stiff.  For the most part, we don't have a non-boating time of the year here so there was no trigger to service it like your "winter" trigger.  My problem was that the cable exited the trough in the floor and already had to make a sharp bend to get into the tube of the motor. I think my boat is only 5 1/2 feet wide at the stern, so divide that in half, minus the room of the motor and you can see my point. Barely enough room to get it in and out to work on it.
I do like that the travel was 1 turn in either direction using the cable.  I read somewhere that the hydraulics are something like 4 turns each way and the steering wheel doesn't usually end back up in the same place, so I might have to replace the wheel with something that doesn't have a noticeable "center".  Should get the boat back Friday, to include a rebuilt motor, and take her on her maiden voyage Saturday morning.  

[Radioshop]

Hydraulic is inherently more complicated than cable.  It does turn easier but I feel some of the tactile feedback is lost with it.  Don't think you're going to be able set it and forget it with the hydraulic, hoses do fail, probably at about the same interval as steering cables.   The big difference being when a hose blows and cable failure is, it's $107.00 for just two hoses (10'), while an entire NFB system (10'), helm and all, is $160.00.  

If you're getting the Baystar hydraulic system from Teleflex, you'll still have the problems associated with cross tube stiffness.  I had this system on my Hewes Bonefisher.  The only lasting solution to crosstube problems is to change out that crapy painted carbon steel one, that as sure as the sun rises will rust and screw you at an optimally inconvenient time, for a shiny new stainless steel one.  I've done it to two out of three motors in my life, one OMC, one Mercury.  The motor is happier and I'm happier because I don't have to worry about it anymore.  Needless to say, because then virtually everything is stainless steel, there is no reason to be taking any of these systems apart for an anual cleaning.  There's nothing to clean, because provided you kept it greased (use one of those little screw on grease fittings), nothing will corrode.  

Now, take some painted high tensile crabon steel tubing, put a hardened rod through it that's going to pick up grit (salt, dirt, etc.) and see how long it takes to compromise that layer of paint.  Then clean it out every year with an abrasive brush and, pretty soon there will be nothing but high tensile carbon steel with no paint and those corrosion causing grits.  It's a recipe for disaster.  I wish the outboard companies would spend a few bucks more and make the crosstubes out of stainless.  

Anyhow, I digress.  With a 170, I'd go with a new cable steering system, and, stainless crosstube.  If you do those two things, you won't need to be tearing the thing apart as much and probably save $300 in the proccess, assuming you're putting a Baystar.  The savings will be more with other systems.

[RickK]

I installed a Baystar Hydraulic system on my 170 a couple years ago and I would never go back to cable. I like the effortless steering of hydraulic. Whether I'm idling or at WOT it steers completly effortlessly.

This is a good place to follow up on my earlier post:
I finally got my boat back with the new "rebuilt" motor and used hydraulic steering system.  After I sprayed degreaser throughout the boat to remove all the funk left by the mechanics (people just don't treat someone else's boat like their own :x), I found that the used hydraulic system installed is a Seastar.  Might be a little overkill and I think I read that this is the heavy duty "mac-daddy" of the teleflex line. Should last.

I took the boat out this past Saturday to start the break-in on the motor, man was it windy here - a strong cross wind to the intercoastal waterway - good test for the steering.  
Steering: Don't know why I waited so long to switch to hydraulics - ultra smooth control, no fighting the wheel, thoroughly enjoyed the hydraulics.  Have to get used to the extra turns though.
Motor: Being a totally rebuilt '98 Johnson 115 vs the '88 'rude 110 I had, I was told that the 'rudes hp was measured at the head and the Johnson is measured at the prop - so to expect a lot more power. A nice change.  The motor is much quieter at idle, can't tell if it is cleaner running as I have to double the oil right now and the response is wonderfully smooth.  Can really feel the smooth power and quick response when coming out of the hole. Can't really push it for a while though (7 more hours break-in) but overall think the "upgrade" was worth it.  Don't know if I'll get anymore top-end mph but will see later. The 110 gave me 38 mph (gps) even with my oversized windshield (was nice to hide behind last weekend   ) - maybe I'll get a few more mph.

[jeffm2009]

i always go with hydraulic hoses over steering cables. hydraulic just feels smoother to me.